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Jeff NJ Jeff NJ is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NW NJ
Posts: 1,187
Originally Posted by TurboKraft View Post

We can take that clutch back, return it to Sachs for testing, or send it to another clutch manufacturer I know for testing. If it's bad, we'll simply send you another one.

But if it tests fine, or we replace it with another brand new one and you have the same problems... then what?

What concerns me isn't so much the $ for the clutch, it's that you had this problem before with your blown up clutch, and you're still having it now with everything new.
I totally agree and I am certain that if it is a defective part, you will take care of it. I keep going back to the same thing too- I had this issue before I took it apart. What are the chances that something else is causing the same problem?

For this reason, I just am not motivated to rip the motor out and do all that work, when I really don't know what the problem is or if it has anything to do with what I am looking at.

Are there specs on how much PP disc travel there is supposed to be with X amount of TOB throw? Or is it 1/1 (TOB moves 10mm = PP disc moves 10mm) Once out, I could test that, and if it moves the correct amount, it must be good, right? I think it is more likely that there is something hanging up the disc against the flywheel. I really didn't pay too much attention to how difficult it was to slide it on the splined shaft, so maybe the shaft got damaged from loose parts from my old disc and I didn't notice?

Here is my best case scenario that I have dreamed up in my head based on my history with the clutch: When I bought the car, every once in a while it would smell of burned clutch when I didn't really abuse it. I asked PowerTech when I brought it into them what they thought and they didn't notice anything. Also, it was inconsistent engagement. I knew something was wrong. At this point, I could get it into reverse with no grinding. The disc was failed and the part of the disc would bind up between the flywheel and the rest of the disc occasionally and maybe cause the disc to gouge the splines, or the rivets were floating around in there for a while and eventually it screwed up the splines and now there is too much resistance and the disc doesn't pull away from the flywheel, which then causes my reverse grinding problems. I swap out all the parts, but don't notice the spline issues and that is why the disc still sticks and I still cant get it into reverse.

1988 930 Venetian Blue
Old 05-21-2015, 09:18 PM
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