Per Alan:

[COLOR="Blue"]"And just to complicate it more, you could have a couple of crappy injectors that are not shutting off when Off. Dribbling fuel into cylinders, which = rough starts".[/COLOR

Once you've confirmed that both pumps are indeed running, then certainly a good possibility that you've got some injectors slowly leaking down in to the cylinders as the car sits, basically flooding the engine. If this happens again, try a standard flood start: Hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor and crank. That will let more air in to the engine to overcome the richness and help starting. You were kind of doing that with pumping the pedal.

Peddling/pumping the accelerator is an old trick for carbureted cars; carbs have an accelerator pump that squirts a small amount of raw gas into the intake when pumping the pedal. Not so with CIS, so I can't see where this action has anything to do with making your car start.

Don't you get a dump of fuel the instant you open the plate in the air flow sensor? I have been known to peddle the gas for a dump of fuel to start my car after sitting a couple of weeks without being started, always works for me.:confused:

The pedal is only connected to the throttle body butterfly. Opening and closing that butterfly only changes the degree of vacuum in the intake, which in turn changes the amount of air drawn across the air flow metering arm/plate, deflecting it more or less and thereby opening up the fuel delivery ports in the fuel distributor. The deflection of the metering arm - not the throttle body butterfly - is what sends fuel to the injectors.

Isn't that what the cold start valve/injector is for?

I've never needed to "peddle" regardless of the temp.

Yep, on the cold start valve in conjunction with the TTS (thermal time switch). That's the only way to get raw gas into the intake, at least not until the metering arm has been drawn down by engine vacuum when cranking - and even that doesn't give enough fuel for a good rich first fire.
For benefit of the questioner, the cold start valve actuates when the starter is cranking and will spray gas for just a couple seconds until it "times out", or it won't spray at all when the engine is warm (thus, the thermal time switch). Once the engine starts and injectors start spraying, the rich mixture is maintained and managed by the WUR in it's cold warm up rich mode whereby it adjusts the fuel control pressure based on temperature.

Aint CIS fun???Sorry we got a little off-topic....

Just to tidy the CSV bit up - there is no timing in that circuit. It is hooked in to the starter circuit. While you crank the starter it works/does not work - depending on engine temp. The TTS either makes or breaks the circuit.
Regards
Alan

Thanks for the clarification. I always thought that the TTS had a dual function, time and/or temperature dependent (as per the part's name). Always learning something new here.

Thanks, Mark ....I guess I knew that but....in my case even though not correct, the fuel pump runs all the time, and I think maybe the peddling comes after the 1st cylinder fires. It seemed to help it start, and only after sitting for an extended amount of time.
Anyway not to detract from the POs problem I will try without the pedal next time.

SBK 930, I also recommend CIS gauges. Learning how to test pressures, analyze afr, make adjustments to wur and fuel mix are all part of the fun of owning one of these cars.
Good Luck

at 35c, which is 95f

First, apologies to SBK930 for hijacking this thread, but....

As for the TTS, is there an internal heating element that in effect acts as the "time" portion of the TTS name, whereby it will reach 35C and switch off the CSV after a period of time cranking the cold engine, thus preventing flooding for a hard to start vehicle?

Yes.

Its at O 43 on my wiring diagram ('86).

OK - my bad - internal heater. Makes sense - limits the amount of fuel dumped in engine if not firing.
Regards
Alan