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The biggest challenge you will face is thermal management. E85/E100 is a must at your desired power levels. Even with that CHT’s will ultimately dictate your HP ceiling.

With your intention of 1/2 or 1 mile racing that HP goal is more realistic than a street car. It will be lag city with a VERY narrow power band. Not fun on the street but that’s not your goal anyway.

Look forward to hearing more about the build.

Old 10-31-2019, 07:07 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #41 (permalink)
Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Yo OP, have you got that bisch built yet?!?! Running it in on a dyno this weekend?!?!
Old 10-31-2019, 05:44 PM
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Brando
 
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Good one. /\
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Old 11-01-2019, 08:18 AM
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GJF GJF is offline
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We should open a fundme account for Rawknees EFI campaign!!!
Old 11-01-2019, 08:49 AM
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Brando
 
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Haha, I'd pay in.
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Old 11-01-2019, 09:07 AM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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I'm thinking I'll just ship my car to GinormousGerry for the 1K horsepower treatment!!!
Old 11-01-2019, 09:59 AM
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I spent the day yesterday tearing my office apart (almost as messy as my garage), looking for the crankshaft key for the distributor/idler gear. I was going to work on the oil pump clearance and check the intermediate shaft lash, but had no success in finding the damn key. This morning I walked into my office, wondering where it could have gone that I had not looked yet and glanced at the covered up crankshaft, when a thought came to me, "I wonder if .....". Sure enough this is what I found.
I have a feeling that the rest of this build is going to be just like this.
Old 11-01-2019, 10:58 AM
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It's a 914 ...
 
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Sounds like a great project - thanks for starting a thread to share and discuss it! Curious to hear about cylinder to head sealing ...
Old 11-01-2019, 02:19 PM
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Nocarrier and stownsen914, the idea is to get a flat wide surface that encompasses the head studs. Reasoning is as follows: the studs on 911/930s are outside the sealing surface, consequently when tightening the heads down too much, the outsides of the heads get pulled down. Consequences of this can cause coining (warping of the heads surface upward from the stud holes to the center between them). To prevent this, the large flat surface surrounding the studholes will prevent that (like a 964) and if you look at the cylinder bottoms, the area where the studholes are, are fully supported, so that when I torque the heads to 50 ftlbs there is no chance of pulling the surface into an uneven surface.
As nocarrier said, the heads will get machined to fit the surface of the cylinders, but I do not want to machine Niresist grooves, as they were a fix for low torque, stretching studs. At 50 ftlbs the heads will be pulled down with approx 37,000 lbs force. With 98mm cylinders that gives a 11.69 sqin surface area, which means the heads should hold up to 3,165 lbs/sqin cylinder pressure. That will of course never happen under normal running conditions, but should be enough to hold even with some detonation.
That is the theory anyways, time will tell if I am correct. Unfortunately, there is always theory and practice and more often than not the two do not coincide.
Old 11-01-2019, 07:28 PM
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GJF GJF is offline
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Freshly mated cylinder and heads coupled with ARP studs make for the best seal. These motors move around ALOT!!!! If you add gaskets and lift a head you ruin the gasket requiring replacement. Niresist rings help indexing the heads to the cylinders but once again if you lift a head you still lose compression. Nothing really gained. And you machine away much valuable material, losing sealing surface area. For best results lapping the cylinders to the heads gains you extra seal quality.
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Old 11-01-2019, 07:55 PM
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GJF, I agree with you 100%. But you reminded me of a statement Dave Jarvis made to me. He told me that if I ever were to stand in a dark dyno room when one of these engines were making a pull and I were to put a strobe light on the engine, the flex on these cases would scare me so much, I would probably try to claw my way out of the dyno room.
But on another note, I also had a bad experience with Niresist rings, where the head lifted repeatedly and got stuck part of the way up after the Niresist ring shaved some material inside the groove. When I took it apart, the head was at least .010" up on one side.
Old 11-01-2019, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Ollies930 View Post
I spent the day yesterday tearing my office apart (almost as messy as my garage), looking for the crankshaft key for the distributor/idler gear. I was going to work on the oil pump clearance and check the intermediate shaft lash, but had no success in finding the damn key. This morning I walked into my office, wondering where it could have gone that I had not looked yet and glanced at the covered up crankshaft, when a thought came to me, "I wonder if .....". Sure enough this is what I found.
I have a feeling that the rest of this build is going to be just like this.
lol I spent several frustrating weekends scouring my hangar looking for my scavenge pump, only to find it later exactly where I thought it was. I must have looked right at it 100 times and didn't see it!
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Old 11-02-2019, 09:03 AM
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Cases with bearings installed. These bearings have HM Elliotts new Top Fuel coating on them. The nice thing about that coating, is the fact that you can ask for double coating to reduce bearing clearance. I measured the clearances before sending them off and marked them for their respective location and had some double coated to get to the clearance I am looking for.
After receiving them back and installing them,I found that I had to swap two bearings and ended up with .0025" to .0028" across the board. Just where I wanted to end up. Big horsepower and high rpm require more clearance than stock.

Old 11-02-2019, 02:00 PM
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I know you plan on a 930 oil pump, but consider an upgrade to a GT3 pump. It has an extra scavenge section and helps running the extra turbo.
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Old 11-02-2019, 06:48 PM
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I know you plan on a 930 oil pump, but consider an upgrade to a GT3 pump. It has an extra scavenge section and helps running the extra turbo.
All right, so we’ll have to change the case a bit to make the GT3 pump compatible with it.
Old 11-03-2019, 10:34 AM
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Brando
 
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Just use ball bearing turbos you’ll be fine.
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Old 11-03-2019, 10:53 AM
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I know that the GT3 pump is great and does a nice job of scavenging, but my main concern is supplying enough volume on the pressure side. The pressure side of the 930 pump is identical in size and flow to the GT3 pump, the only difference is the fact that it has a small scavenge section in front of the stock pick up location. The added cost of the GT3 pump is too much compared to the benefits I would see with it, considering my budget.
Since I am running larger than normal (for the street) bearing clearances, my main concern is the supply side, but there is no Porsche oil pump other than the Auto Verdi, which will supply more oil. The Auto Verdi, even though a nice piece, just is not in the budget. Given an unlimited budget, I would love to have the 935/962/Indy pump with the extra scavenge section in the back of the engine, where more oil would get trapped under hard acceleration.
As for turbos, they will be ball bearing, not because I think that they spool that much faster, but because they need less oil, thereby leaving more for the rest of the engine.
Ideally I am hoping for 6.5 to 7 bar oil pressure when hot over 6000rpm, similar to 935 and 962 motors. And I think the stock 930 turbo scavenge pump will handle the flow of (2) ball bearing turbos and if not, I do have a big Clewett scavenge pump.
Old 11-03-2019, 01:20 PM
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It's a 914 ...
 
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Are you going to shim the pressure relief valve spring to get the higher oil pressure?
Old 11-03-2019, 07:06 PM
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Either shim or source a stiffer spring.
Old 11-03-2019, 07:55 PM
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Little bit more progress, tore apart the oil pump and found that some debris has made its way through it. The small set of gears on the scavenge side were kind of trashed, so I called Henry at Supertec and gave him the dimensions of the gears I needed and a few days later I received a package with the gears in it, precisely the dimension I wanted. Henry machined them down from a larger gear set to get me the dimension I asked for. Thank you Henry!!!
There was also some damage on the aluminum center divider where a piece of debris found its way between the plate and the gears, resulting in a nice circular groove. I sanded this piece flat until the groove was less than .006" or .007" deep. That removed almost .025" from the overall length of the pump, but did not affect the gear length.
While I had it apart, I adjusted all the clearances and ported the pump as well.
And of course clearance for Carrillo rods on longer stroke crank.






Old 11-11-2019, 07:29 PM
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