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UDAMAN, man! Seriously impressively well done, and an incredible turnaround (and seeming result!!!)

Supercool dewd. Hope shakedown goes smooth.

Did same thing to my tach here last take-out... yet to rectify ftl.

Exhaust hiccups could well be timing.

Looking forward to an outing together... someday. You're worlds ahead of my progress here 8 /

CONGRATS

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Paul... CT | '87 930 | '08 M3 6gang vert |
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| '58 TR3A | '01 S8 | '95 S6 6gang | '88 M5 | '87 190E 2.3-16 |
Old 07-14-2020, 06:08 AM
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Awesome feeling, so anxious twisting that key for the first time!

Congratulations!
Yasin
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Old 07-14-2020, 06:37 AM
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Such a great feeling!

Way to go Ken.

I had a tach issue on my first startup follow the engine rebuild. Turns out there is a separate connector for the tach that I hadn't connected. It's a single wire (black with purple stripe I believe) that has a single plug. It's also near the brake booster line going from the manifold. Hopefully that is all that your issue is as well.

Rich
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Old 07-16-2020, 09:30 AM
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Congratulations Ken!!!!
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Old 07-16-2020, 09:44 AM
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Thanks guys. The virus clusterfuch helped me plow through in much quicker time than I would have. No commute on either end, no getting stuck after hours in the office when my CEO sticks his head in and cracks open a whole new topic, etc.
I have no special skills- I just used the hell out this forumís advanced search / search titles-only function and seemed to have avoided avoidable mistakes.

Rich - I donít remember such a wire. Iím stumped for the moment on why my tach doesnít work after reinstalling the engine. I checked continuity of the black and purple Tach pin from the 6-plug CDI plug to the car side of the front multi-pin engine harness to car harness junction and that path is intact. How does the CDI get a tach signal, from itself?

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Originally Posted by Rich76_911s View Post
I had a tach issue on my first startup follow the engine rebuild. Turns out there is a separate connector for the tach that I hadn't connected. It's a single wire (black with purple stripe I believe) that has a single plug. It's also near the brake booster line going from the manifold. Hopefully that is all that your issue is as well. Rich
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1986 930, 1969 Mach1, 2003 540 Sport, 2016 R1200RS
Old 07-16-2020, 10:48 AM
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Replying to myself, oh boy but I just remembered I redid the green wire with a pigtail and a connector from Timmy2.
1.- Is that involved with the tach?
2.- If the car runs, and it does, does that mean the green wire splice job is not a suspect for the no tach signal?
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1986 930, 1969 Mach1, 2003 540 Sport, 2016 R1200RS
Old 07-16-2020, 11:15 AM
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Just checked in here....Awesome...great feeling of accomplishment at first startup!
Old 07-16-2020, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxrken View Post
Replying to myself, oh boy but I just remembered I redid the green wire with a pigtail and a connector from Timmy2.
1.- Is that involved with the tach?
2.- If the car runs, and it does, does that mean the green wire splice job is not a suspect for the no tach signal?
Green wire (and its shield) provides timing signal to the CDI. If the car runs, green wire is fine.

That is a VR signal, so it increases in voltage with RPM and also doesn't have sharp zero crossing in one direction, not ideal for a tach.

CDI provides a separate more or less square 12v wave on the black/purple wire to the tach completely independent of the green wire.
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'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
'14 Jaguar XK-R: Bullet proof windscreen, rotating number plates (valid all European countries), martini mixer, whatever you do don't press this red button!
Old 07-17-2020, 06:44 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #128 (permalink)
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Thanks for that. Tach issue was as simple as a separate male/female connector between the rear fuse tray and the CDI box. I left it apart initially thinking it was lambda O2 sensor-related. Richís post got me thinking along these lines (thanks bud!) and Cole (RIP, David) helped me zero in on that area on a post I came across in searching tach issues. The car immediately seems more functional without a mute tach staring me in the face. Itíll also help with timing, mixture and idle speed tuning from here on out.

Just got back from my first 5 mile loop up to temp. Staying off the boost but trying to run it up and down the RPM scale and get some deceleration in there as well. So far so good. Cooling down again and tomorrow Iíll venture out further.

Worth noting, Peter Dawe recommended Royal Purple break-in oil. Itís a 10w-30. Itís not what I would have selected but then what the hell do I know about breaking in Porsche engines? Not only that, he recommended running it for between 500-1000 miles with just an oil filter swap after the first 20 minute cam break-in and cool down. Seemed a little unorthodox but Iíll follow his advice here, and the dad in me likes not dumping $130 worth of 12 quarts of oil after 20 minutes.

After that, he recommends Royal Purple 20w-50 for the rest of the engineís life. So Iím going to do that, even though I never used it before. Not trying to start an oil thread here, but he said they have had nothing but success with RP on the racing circuit and itís all he would put in these cars. He looked at me disapprovingly when I said I had been running M1 15w-50... I changed the topic quickly rather than get his reasoning on it.



I definitely need to fiddle with my shifter coupler. I hate that thing as much as I hate Allen heads. In fact that thing has an Allen head on the Wevo clamp bolt, so I hate it doubly.
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1986 930, 1969 Mach1, 2003 540 Sport, 2016 R1200RS
Old 07-17-2020, 01:40 PM
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Hi Ken - what was Peter's recommendation for when to go full throttle/boost/redline?
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Old 07-18-2020, 04:37 AM
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Adam- he told me to drive it hard right after I know my timing and AFRs are good BUUUT he wanted me to put in a .5 bar spring for the first 500 miles and I’m not doing that. So I’ve had it out three times now, varying RPMs but using light throttle to get up there. Haven’t been past 5500 yet. If it starts boosting I roll off in a moment so wasteGate has not been involved yet.

Just got back in from a test run and ventured into town without rear bumper or plates for gasoline. Drove it as you see in the pic below. The BP in town has an old school 3 bay garage attached and young mechanic has rented it out. He seems to be a go-getter as I see him there at all hours and days of the week. Sort of an import tuner guy, but does NY inspections and AC, brake muffler shocks sort of work on anything that rolls in. They all poured out of the shop with cell phones and drooled over the car. A minute or two in one of them asked me what it was, lol. I walked them through the analog CIS fuel injection, explained the fan cools the fins on the heads, and traced the air through the very visible turbo and intercooler pathways. Their enthusiasm was fun to see and one of them said they “had heard of these cars but never saw one.”

We should remember how fortunate we are to own a piece of history and take opportunities to share it with others when they present themselves. Best thing (for me) the owner says “hey anytime you need an inspection, I got ya”. Which is cool because mine expired last month.

Pic of the car cooling down again... TurboKraft longneck, k27-7006 dinosaur with Brian’s exhaust (w/ my LM-1 O2 sensor lead sticking out and running through my window to the handheld monitor), Griff’s killer AC compressor. Still have my fuel pressure gauge rigged up for WUR AFR tweaks too.
Getting more and more comfortable with each day!

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Old 07-19-2020, 12:00 PM
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I've gone through a tank of gasoline on several 20 minute loops without incident and without any drips on the cardboard I place under the car on every trip.
I've been avoiding boosting to any degree but today I started to get into it. It's pulling really cleanly! AFR gauge reporting 13.4 or so on cruise, dips into low 11s as boost builds, but no all out bonsai runs yet. I have a boost delay ignition thing from Brian Leask that I have yet to install.

Still on the break in oil... figure one more tank of juice with an eye on still breaking in the rings but TBH I think I'm past that. Zero smoke or smells. Rock steady idle. The SC cams sound a little meaner at idle, but if anything it seems a little stronger off boost than i remember. It has a great howl at 4,000RPM+ and I can't wait to boost my way to 5,800 or so and see what the cams have added up top.

2nd gear video... roads were damp with prior rain and humidity and when I mashed it and it got on the cam I'd get some nice straight wheelspin... thought it was clutch slip at first but it kicked a touch sideways. This vid is tamer since I didn't want any drama as I'm one-handed filming / driving.



At this point I plan to continue monitoring things for next 500 miles or so and then if things are still solid, looking to bomb 12 hours to the Tail of the Dragon in early October on my way to Fort Benning, GA to visit my son.
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Old 08-16-2020, 01:10 PM
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I am a few months behind you in my rebuild process.
Couple of questions, is there a part number on the total seal ringa you got. Is the second ring cut to Napier profile? Whatt ring clearance did you shoot for when setting those up. Did you check RMS of the finish on the cylinders after honing? I am very impressed by the progress you have made on this. Great job!!
Old 08-21-2020, 01:52 PM
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Thanks for the kind words. I’m an admirer of your wastegate project and following along with your barn find restoration.
Unfortunately I can’t help too much with the RA or the exact ring package. As I posted earlier in this thread, I leaned on Dawe’s Motorsports in PA for machine work and measuring of the bottom end components. Peter took my goals in mind and had the cylinders refinished to his specs to match the Total Seal ring package he also specified. I think my 2nd ring was standard profile but I recall he spec’d the three piece oil ring, not the zero gap one total seal also offers. My only job at that point was to gap them to the specs he wrote on the box you can see in post #67 in this thread. Besides his stature in the racing world, I was also familiar with his work on Jacob and Rey’s cars, had been out to his shop with Rey, and I was just comfortable with trusting him. This is not the best advice with respect to machinists or subs in general so YMMV, but I was in good hands.
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Old 08-21-2020, 06:34 PM
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I have called Peter a few times to discuss my engine build. I can mostly read the scribble on the box. 1st ring .016 - .01? Second ring .014 - ?
Due to Covid rules at work if I travel further than 400 miles from home I will have to isolate and telework for 14 days.... I had been planning a road trip up to visit Peter and his machinist to have my bottom end cleaned and measured like you did. I will figure something out to get my parts up there.
Old 08-22-2020, 03:42 AM
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Keeping my build documentation all in one place - the plastic/Bakelite injector block nuts would not hold a steady torque and twice I had to resnug them to 18ft lbs over some leaks altering my AFR. 1-800-TurboKraft and I got some aluminum goodness. Thanks Chris!



BTW, I think the AFR gauge has halved my enjoyment of the car, lol. Ignorance was bliss.
Flightlead404/Martin totally hooked me up with a custom 3D radio block off panel that mounted the AFR gauge, Bluetooth amp remote, and a USB charging port. Wild!



Lastly, I found new injectors for $44 each... ran the hologram counterfeit numbers through Bosch’s website and they’re authentic. I sent them and my old ones to Tony in Philly to flow test and test the cracking pressure. I’d like to know they are good, and am curious about the condition of the old (109k) ones. I suspect at least one may have been leaking due to some more than usual exhaust popcorn... even when I retorqued the intake blocks. We’ll see!
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Old 09-18-2020, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxrken View Post
BTW, I think the AFR gauge has halved my enjoyment of the car, lol. Ignorance was bliss.
Flightlead404/Martin totally hooked me up with a custom 3D radio block off panel that mounted the AFR gauge, Bluetooth amp remote, and a USB charging port. Wild!

lol Ignorance is bliss until you melt a piston

Glad you like it, it looks really good

When I redid my motor my original plastic(?) blocks were not completely flat and one or two had some minor cracking that would only have gotten worse with heat cycles. I used TKs billet blocks, couldn't be happier.
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'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
'14 Jaguar XK-R: Bullet proof windscreen, rotating number plates (valid all European countries), martini mixer, whatever you do don't press this red button!
Old 09-18-2020, 11:47 AM
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🙏🙏 thank you, gentlemen 🙏🙏
Old 09-18-2020, 03:28 PM
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Awesome stuff...Thanks for keeping your rebuild thread going Ken ....gives me a great reference to keep my inner German hillbilly hacker at bay!

Old 09-19-2020, 03:40 PM
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