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Porsche 930 FrankenCIS installation

I have been following the Pelican thread for some while and whilst there has been a lot of interest on 928s and 924s I have yet to see a definitive 930 installation that someone has seen through to completion and left installed (is that because full EFI is the big prize ?). I am hoping that flightlead404 will respond because I understand he has a successful 930 installation. Perhaps someone can point me at another ?

It certainly isn't a cheap project but the benefits have to be more power throughout the power curve and a smoother engine response (and a potential significant improvement in fuel economy, but we are not interested in that are we ??). So maybe we would have to go on emotion rather than logic ?

I live in the UK !

The FrankenCIS Metering block (version 2) is 275 plus delivery and import tax (say 360), a fuel injector is about 50 and MicroSquirt is 350 so we are over 750 before we start, and then there are the various sensors and dampers (WbO2, Fuel pressure ,MAP, IAT, Engine temp - sound like total project cost would be 1000) ), but hey, it does sound like a good technical challenge and a lot of fun ! Have I got your interest yet ?

However, I already have a head start

I already have installed;
AEM X-series - Wide-band UEGO gauge which uses a Bosch LSU4.9 probe and has a 0-5v analogue output
AEM X-series - 0-100 psi fuel pressure gauge - 0-5v analogue output
I have purchased
Delphi FJ10409 Fuel Injector
I still need
Fuel pressure damper - Toyota 23270-062010 plus gasket
Denso MAP sensor
IAT sensor - Bosch 0280130085
Porsche 996 engine temperature sensor

I have never used Mega/Micro squirt but that doesn't seem to be unsurmountable based on what I have read.

There are some potential opportunities;
I also have installed one of Classic Retrofit's CDI+ units - not sure how that would fit in if at all ?

First questions would be around sensor selection

Second question would be around using the AEM 0-5v analogue outputs into micro-squirt

Third question is - what else is there that I have missed. ? Throttle position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, ignition distributor, fuel distributor head ?

If anyone has any thoughts or input on any of the above please let me know and see where we get to !

Regards

Peter

Old 11-09-2020, 02:12 AM
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Hey Carrpet

I have a successful 930 FrankenCIS with Lambda installation that is working very well. I recently dynoed at 365hp at the wheels, but that was with a 0.8bar WG spring. I've recently swapped that to a 1.0 bar spring as I had a little fuel left on the table. Not only is my boost pressure higher, but it feels like it comes on sooner and stronger. I'm thinking the 0.8 bar spring was cracking open earlier.

I keep promising to do a full write up of the project with all the parts and details, but as of yet only have about 50% of that written up, but with everything I think I'm probably pushing 400hp at the wheels. My gut says there's maybe another few hp left with some more careful tuning esp ignition timing but I'm happy where I am for now.

In addition to the FrankenCIS I also swapped to SC cams, lightweight clutch package, Tial WG with the above spring, RarlyL8 headers and Hooligan exhaust, TurboKraft long neck 1/2 bay intercooler, K27/29 hybrid turbo, and one of the biggest improvements I had my flywheel cut for a 60-2 tooth pattern and am using the microsquirt to control COP ignition as well.

I feel the addition of ignition control in the same package makes a HUGE improvement. The only thing I'd do differently is use 30-1 instead of 60-2. If you aren't going to dig that deep into your power train (I had my tranny out because it needed a refresh and the clutch was worn) then you could lock off your dizzy and use that for a crank position pickup for ignition control.

You don't need throttle position unless you want to do electronic boost control. That was my initial plan but I've decided that's unnecessary. Pity you spent the money on the rebuilt CDI unit as it is totally unnecessary if you can get crank position reliably off your flywheel or dizzy. If you do that, then you can ditch the CDI entirely, and if you use crank pick up remove the dizzy and block off the hole. When you do that, then you can also remove all the vacuum lines, thermo time sensors, Pierburg switches and have a very clean installation.

I did purchase and install the Turbokraft CHT sensor, but I forgot to calibrate before install. However I'd also installed a Denso CLT sensor in the breather cover where the old thermo valve was and it gets oil splash and works just fine for controlling warm up.

I did no fuel head work at all. Pretty sure you could open up the fuel head and lines and use a larger lambda valve and get even more fuel and therefore raise boost, and then get more power. After that I'd consider porting heads. If you're pulling heads to port them you might as well up your displacement and static compression. If you're going to do that.......well, you can see where that leads

AEM would work fine. Pretty sure the fuel pressure would be fine as well, but the one I used was a cheapy off ebay.

I have a boss on the exit of my intercooler for IAT and used the open element GM one. I T'd off one of the throttle body ports for the 3Bar GM Map sensor. I use two, one is doing constant barometric adjustment one is MAP.

PS I grew up in Leamington Spa, Warks and lived in Market Harborough nr Leicester in the late 90's. Silverstone was a regular place to visit with my Dad. I remember watching James Hunt win there in the March in 1975.
__________________
'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
'14 Jaguar XK-R: Bullet proof windscreen, rotating number plates (valid all European countries), martini mixer, whatever you do don't press this red button!

Last edited by flightlead404; 11-09-2020 at 06:24 AM..
Old 11-09-2020, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flightlead404 View Post
Hey Carrpet

I have a successful 930 FrankenCIS with Lambda installation that is working very well. I recently dynoed at 365hp at the wheels, but that was with a 0.8bar WG spring. I've recently swapped that to a 1.0 bar spring as I had a little fuel left on the table. Not only is my boost pressure higher, but it feels like it comes on sooner and stronger. I'm thinking the 0.8 bar spring was cracking open earlier.

I keep promising to do a full write up of the project with all the parts and details, but as of yet only have about 50% of that written up, but with everything I think I'm probably pushing 400hp at the wheels. My gut says there's maybe another few hp left with some more careful tuning esp ignition timing but I'm happy where I am for now.

In addition to the FrankenCIS I also swapped to SC cams, lightweight clutch package, Tial WG with the above spring, RarlyL8 headers and Hooligan exhaust, TurboKraft long neck 1/2 bay intercooler, K27/29 hybrid turbo, and one of the biggest improvements I had my flywheel cut for a 60-2 tooth pattern and am using the microsquirt to control COP ignition as well.

I feel the addition of ignition control in the same package makes a HUGE improvement. The only thing I'd do differently is use 30-1 instead of 60-2. If you aren't going to dig that deep into your power train (I had my tranny out because it needed a refresh and the clutch was worn) then you could lock off your dizzy and use that for a crank position pickup for ignition control.

You don't need throttle position unless you want to do electronic boost control. That was my initial plan but I've decided that's unnecessary. Pity you spent the money on the rebuilt CDI unit as it is totally unnecessary if you can get crank position reliably off your flywheel or dizzy. If you do that, then you can ditch the CDI entirely, and if you use crank pick up remove the dizzy and block off the hole. When you do that, then you can also remove all the vacuum lines, thermo time sensors, Pierburg switches and have a very clean installation.

I did purchase and install the Turbokraft CHT sensor, but I forgot to calibrate before install. However I'd also installed a Denso CLT sensor in the breather cover where the old thermo valve was and it gets oil splash and works just fine for controlling warm up.

I did no fuel head work at all. Pretty sure you could open up the fuel head and lines and use a larger lambda valve and get even more fuel and therefore raise boost, and then get more power. After that I'd consider porting heads. If you're pulling heads to port them you might as well up your displacement and static compression. If you're going to do that.......well, you can see where that leads

AEM would work fine. Pretty sure the fuel pressure would be fine as well, but the one I used was a cheapy off ebay.

I have a boss on the exit of my intercooler for IAT and used the open element GM one. I T'd off one of the throttle body ports for the 3Bar GM Map sensor. I use two, one is doing constant barometric adjustment one is MAP.

PS I grew up in Leamington Spa, Warks and lived in Market Harborough nr Leicester in the late 90's. Silverstone was a regular place to visit with my Dad. I remember watching James Hunt win there in the March in 1975.
Thanks for your answer, there's a lot to take in.

I live within 20 miles of Leicester near Grantham. I have been to Silverstone a couple of times too. Which part of the States are you in ??
I saw the picture of your car ! Very nice !

So one step at a time

For the moment lets just concentrate on fuel then we can cover the spark bit later if thats OK ! I had my engine/gearbox out 6 months ago so I missed the boat for flywheel related timing I guess!

I have no lambda sensor as my car is UK spec with no catalytic converter.

IAT
I have a FabSpeed long neck intercooler and from what I remember there is a tapped plug in the outlet neck of that I am sure is designed to take an IAT sensor. What IAT sensor did you use ?
MAP
Do you have any photos of your sensor installations especially the MAP sensor on the throttle body that you mention ? What MAP sensor did you use and is the barometric sensor the same ?
CHT
Where does the turboKraft CHT install. Is it near the oil pump for the Turbocharger ?
Do I need to calibrate the CHT sensor against 0C and 100C in MS before I install it ?
Does the same pre-calibration apply to the Denso CLT sensor ?
The most popular installation for CHT seems to be the VW sensor tapped into the crankcase above the camshaft timing chain cover without therefore any oil contact. Any views on this ?
Fuel Pressure Damper
Are you using one and is it the Toyota damper that FrankenCIS recommend. I am assuming you have the #2 DWUR block

That's probably enough for one go !

Thanks

Peter
Old 11-09-2020, 08:10 AM
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I find the Lambda and the eWUR work well together. The thinking is the lambda can make more granular changes more rapidly. I don't have any real data to support that position however, and certainly the original WUR didn't use it. I think you'll be fine without it.

IAT Sensor
CLT Sensor (drilled and tapped breather cover)
CHT Sensor installs between a couple of the cylinder fins on #5 I think, see the Turbokraft site. You need the rear engine tin off it to install. May be tricky with the engine in the car. I don't use it. I use the above sensor and its fine. If you use TK's sensor you'll need to calibrate, pretty sure the Denso one is already calibrated or has a calibration in TS.

As far as drilling/tapping the chain cover I see no need. If you screw up the breather cover they are cheap and easily available.

I used two of these 3bar GM MAP sensors.

Yes I have the #2 dwur block and use the recommended Toyota damper. I ended up with a larger injector as the original one I tried didn't move as much fuel as needed. I found that with the damper installed the eWUR doesn't quite fit where the original WUR was. If you don't already know the WUR itself is on a mounting plate. So I just fabricated a replacement plate slightly offset.

For mounting, I took out the rear electrical panel and the CDI box then extended the rear electrical panel to extend the "shelf". I've got the MS, the two MAP sensors which I mounted on a bracket I designed and 3d printed, a terminal buss, 6 position ATC fuse block, and a few other odds and ends all mounted there rather nicely.

I use the MS fuel pump circuit to provide the ground to energize two relays to separately provide power to my COPs and the WBO2 controller only when the engine is in Crank or Run.









__________________
'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
'14 Jaguar XK-R: Bullet proof windscreen, rotating number plates (valid all European countries), martini mixer, whatever you do don't press this red button!

Last edited by flightlead404; 11-09-2020 at 02:24 PM..
Old 11-09-2020, 02:15 PM
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Thanks
Lovely installation.
I note that the level of complexity / sophistication increases significantly because of spark control !
Great reply, lots to re-read and digest.
I hadn't figured out that the MAP sensors could be mounted remotely. I had assumed they would be local to the point of measurement !
Where did you tap in your MAP pipe ?
What is the blue device with the brass elbow ?
Still taking it all in
Much appreciated
Regards
Peter
Old 11-09-2020, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carrpet View Post
Thanks
Lovely installation.
I note that the level of complexity / sophistication increases significantly because of spark control !
Great reply, lots to re-read and digest.
I hadn't figured out that the MAP sensors could be mounted remotely. I had assumed they would be local to the point of measurement !
Where did you tap in your MAP pipe ?
What is the blue device with the brass elbow ?
Still taking it all in
Much appreciated
Regards
Peter
That blue devices is a 3-port electronic boost controller. I am not using it. I had originally thought that the EBC duty cycle tables and closed loop control in MS was based on RPM and MAP but its throttle position and MAP. I decided I'm fine without it and am removing it. A 4-port controller is probably a better application for this anyway.

The one for barometric correction just has a bit of open cell foam on it. The actual MAP sensor is connected to one of the ports on the throttle body. I forget the number that Porsche gives it, but its the LHS port on the front of the throttle body (furthest away from you when standing behind the car working on it), that comes off at 90 degrees. All other ports on my TB are capped. But, if you're using a dizzy with advance/retard cans and controlling warm-up with thermo valves and Pierburg switches you'll need to retain some of those vac lines etc.

I don't think complexity goes up that much with ignition, if at all. It might even go down as you can get rid of all the vacuum lines, switches etc. There are more parts to install, but you're removing a lot too, and now its all controlled from one spot.
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'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
'14 Jaguar XK-R: Bullet proof windscreen, rotating number plates (valid all European countries), martini mixer, whatever you do don't press this red button!
Old 11-10-2020, 06:22 AM
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FrankenCIS or EFI

I'm not trying to hijack your thread carrpet but we may have similar interests.
flightlead404 you are the resident expert on the FrankenCIS mods so let me ask from my point of view running CIS and sort of wanting to keep it that way but look at efi as a very tempting (fun) project in the future. I have followed the FrankenCIS from the beginning and think its a great choice, but at the same time would love to loose the cis fuel head and wur.
If you could go back a couple of years, would you make the same choice?
The parts difference between what you have and full efi would include fpr, fuel rails, injectors, intake spacers and maybe tps?
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Steve
1981 SC Steel Widebody, DP Lid, 930/51 to 3.2l, K27 7006 Turbo, DOD, P&P Twin Plug heads, Twinfire Ignition, Ruf Intercooler, Powerhaus headers, Zork, CIS Euro FD, 009 injectors, 044 pump, BLwur, 930 4 sp LSD, Mocal 44 w/fan, LM2, Brembo, Retroair, Euromeisters
2003 BMW Z4 Daily Driver & Autocross car. Sold
Old 11-11-2020, 02:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flightlead404 View Post
That blue devices is a 3-port electronic boost controller. I am not using it. I had originally thought that the EBC duty cycle tables and closed loop control in MS was based on RPM and MAP but its throttle position and MAP. I decided I'm fine without it and am removing it. A 4-port controller is probably a better application for this anyway.

The one for barometric correction just has a bit of open cell foam on it. The actual MAP sensor is connected to one of the ports on the throttle body. I forget the number that Porsche gives it, but its the LHS port on the front of the throttle body (furthest away from you when standing behind the car working on it), that comes off at 90 degrees. All other ports on my TB are capped. But, if you're using a dizzy with advance/retard cans and controlling warm-up with thermo valves and Pierburg switches you'll need to retain some of those vac lines etc.

I don't think complexity goes up that much with ignition, if at all. It might even go down as you can get rid of all the vacuum lines, switches etc. There are more parts to install, but you're removing a lot too, and now its all controlled from one spot.
Hi there,

Thanks once again for your detailed response.
I am ready to press the button based on the confidence that your information has given me plus the input from Mike at Dkubus.
I need to qualify what I meant about "complexity".
I agree that using MS to manage the spark if it enables you to delete the distributor and CDI unit must reduce overall complexity.
In my mind I was referring to the left hand rear corner of the engine bay behind the plastic cover, which now, in your installation houses a whole range of things to enable engine management in it's broadest sense. At the moment I would be installing the MS controller and Map sensor(s). Should I include an ambient MAP sensor for just fuel injection management ?

Do you still have your Cold Start Valve installed ? If so have you changed the management system for this ?

Regards

Peter

Last edited by carrpet; 11-11-2020 at 03:48 AM..
Old 11-11-2020, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Euro View Post
I'm not trying to hijack your thread carrpet but we may have similar interests.
flightlead404 you are the resident expert on the FrankenCIS mods so let me ask from my point of view running CIS and sort of wanting to keep it that way but look at efi as a very tempting (fun) project in the future. I have followed the FrankenCIS from the beginning and think its a great choice, but at the same time would love to loose the cis fuel head and wur.
If you could go back a couple of years, would you make the same choice?
The parts difference between what you have and full efi would include fpr, fuel rails, injectors, intake spacers and maybe tps?
Good question. I did a step-wise approach. I first did the headers, turbo, and intercooler. Then I added the fuel management. Then I found my clutch was slipping and the I had a couple of tired synchros so the engine was coming out anyway so decided to do the rest. Originally my goal was 1) to learn and experiment to see what could be done, 2) leave the car in a state where it could easily be put back more or less to stock.

I accomplished #1, and not sure whether I care about #2 that much any more.

To go full EFI is probably not a huge step up in terms of either work or parts/cost from where I am. Certainly the MS is fully capable even to go to twin plugged as long as you don't need sequential ignition. Wasted spark works fine.

I'd need to replace the injector blocks, add some fuel rails and injectors, a modicum of wiring to support those, possibly replace pumps not sure if I can run EFI off the stock ones, and do a little plumbing for the air intake.

The most difficult part would be figuring out the fuel tables, which I don't think is that difficult. Nothing else would change really.

I'm happy with my choice but it wasn't vastly less work in the end BUT a lot of that could be chalked up to basically being the first one to do it on a turbo.

I could start from scratch and be done in a long weekend if I did it again, assuming I had all the parts.
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'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
'14 Jaguar XK-R: Bullet proof windscreen, rotating number plates (valid all European countries), martini mixer, whatever you do don't press this red button!
Old 11-11-2020, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carrpet View Post
Hi there,

Thanks once again for your detailed response.
I am ready to press the button based on the confidence that your information has given me plus the input from Mike at Dkubus.
I need to qualify what I meant about "complexity".
I agree that using MS to manage the spark if it enables you to delete the distributor and CDI unit must reduce overall complexity.
In my mind I was referring to the left hand rear corner of the engine bay behind the plastic cover, which now, in your installation houses a whole range of things to enable engine management in it's broadest sense. At the moment I would be installing the MS controller and Map sensor(s). Should I include an ambient MAP sensor for just fuel injection management ?

Do you still have your Cold Start Valve installed ? If so have you changed the management system for this ?

Regards

Peter
My CSV and the simple circuit that controls it is still in place.

The MAP sensor for barometric adjustment is a good idea if you'll be driving with altitude changes. For me I could see 3,500' changes going over the hills from GA to OH. Otherwise not super critical. I didn't have it originally. The MS will use the MAP sensor to do a one-time check on start up. BUT I noticed if I went from OFF to CRANK quickly sometimes I got an erroneous reading and had to stop and do it again slowly. I don't have that issue now.

Other than that you'll need most of what I mounted back there:
1) Microsquirt
2) Fuse block for inj1, inj2, microsquirt, WBO2 controller
3) Relay for WBO2 power
4) Its easiest to have some sort of terminal block for VRef, Sensor Ground, Engine Ground

So, your fuse block will be smaller than mine (I have a knock sensor, and EBC) and your terminal block won't need ignition power or the 3 spark circuits.
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'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
'14 Jaguar XK-R: Bullet proof windscreen, rotating number plates (valid all European countries), martini mixer, whatever you do don't press this red button!
Old 11-11-2020, 05:42 AM
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What would be involved in me going from non Lambda to Lambda ? Where does the second injector locate ?
Regards
Peter
Old 11-12-2020, 01:42 AM
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I thank you flightlead404 for sharing your experience.
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Steve
1981 SC Steel Widebody, DP Lid, 930/51 to 3.2l, K27 7006 Turbo, DOD, P&P Twin Plug heads, Twinfire Ignition, Ruf Intercooler, Powerhaus headers, Zork, CIS Euro FD, 009 injectors, 044 pump, BLwur, 930 4 sp LSD, Mocal 44 w/fan, LM2, Brembo, Retroair, Euromeisters
2003 BMW Z4 Daily Driver & Autocross car. Sold
Old 11-12-2020, 03:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carrpet View Post
What would be involved in me going from non Lambda to Lambda ? Where does the second injector locate ?
Regards
Peter
Ah, that I think is a bigger project for you. The Lambda valve isn't a fuel injector in the sense that you are thinking. Its plumbed in to the lower chamber of the fuel head and bleeds off pressure flowing fuel back to control pressure. To add one is probably requires re-working your fuel head.

You don't need it. I'm using it because it was there and gives me additional flexibility.
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'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
'14 Jaguar XK-R: Bullet proof windscreen, rotating number plates (valid all European countries), martini mixer, whatever you do don't press this red button!
Old 11-12-2020, 05:52 AM
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I have now ordered the DWUR and all of the sensors so will continue updating when the parts arrive and I will post photographs of each sensor installation !

I have also purchased MicroSquirt and Tuner Studio / Data Base analysis package which has now arrived. I will install the MS module behind the plastic cover next to my CDI+ module.


I have decided to go for the Cylinder Head temperature installation on No.3 CH based on the fact that this is generally regarded as the hottest CH and also Porsche use CH3 when CH temperature is required. The PET for my 930.66 has a CHT sensor for a 930.26 on CH3. I am going to use the TurboKraft purpose designed CH sensor installation bracket and pocket. This will arrive on Friday. I will have to remove the exhaust to get good access for the installation. Fortunately this is new (installed March 2019) and has a combination of titanium and stainless steel studs, nuts and bolts, so should be very straight forward with existing gaskets. Photographs to follow.

IAT sensor - General Motors
MAP sensor - General Motors

Fuel Pressure Damper - Toyota

Last edited by carrpet; 11-17-2020 at 12:48 AM..
Old 11-16-2020, 10:02 PM
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Great, keep us posted. Fire away with any questions you might have.
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'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
'14 Jaguar XK-R: Bullet proof windscreen, rotating number plates (valid all European countries), martini mixer, whatever you do don't press this red button!
Old 11-17-2020, 06:14 AM
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TurboKraft CHT sensor will be mechanically installed tomorrow
Old 11-22-2020, 07:55 AM
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TurboKraft CHT sensor will be mechanically installed tomorrow
Make sure to calibrate before installation. Do the hot water/ice water dip tests.
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'86 no-sunroof 930 coupe: Emissions removed, FrankenCIS controlling eWUR, lambda, COP ignition. Tial f46P 1.0 bar spring, SC cams, K-27/29, lightweight clutch, TK Longneck intercooler, RarlyL8 headers and dual-outlet hooligan
'14 Jaguar XK-R: Bullet proof windscreen, rotating number plates (valid all European countries), martini mixer, whatever you do don't press this red button!
Old 11-22-2020, 12:36 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #17 (permalink)
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: UK near Nottingham
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Ha yes, I don't want fall into the trap of having a wonderfully positioned and installed CHT sensor that I can't use ! I will post some pictures of my installation which allows the sensor to be removed easily post installation !
Old 11-26-2020, 01:16 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #18 (permalink)
 
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Location: UK near Nottingham
Posts: 186
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The overall plan is as follows;

Procure the parts
Select optimal installation point for each sensor
Install all the sensors
Install MicroSquirt and create wiring harness
Calibrate sensors
Map the existing Bosch WUR
Possible rolling road to benchmark
Install DWUR
Re-map with MicroSquirt
Possible rolling road to re-benchmark
Old 11-26-2020, 01:18 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #19 (permalink)
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: UK near Nottingham
Posts: 186
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The first sensor to be installed is the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. As previously mentioned I decided to go for the TurboKraft CHT adapter which fits to CH3.

Here are the instructions (I will point out the flaws in this in a minute!). You can see the installer has given the 3mm aluminium adapter/conductor plate a fair thwack with a hammer to get that gnarled finish on the outer surface !


Last edited by carrpet; 11-26-2020 at 01:33 AM..
Old 11-26-2020, 01:19 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #20 (permalink)
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