cold start injector wiring
 

I was hoping someone can assist me i have a 76 3.0l row turbo stuffed into a 80 sc wide body. The last owner did a awful scab job 25 years ago lots of overheated cooked wires from piggybacking the second fuel pump. i straightened all that out started from scratch two new 044 bosch pumps and all new wires relays and fuses direct from the fuse panel. new safety circuit relay run through the safety sensor plate switch and the over boost everything works great but i cant seam to get 12 volts to my cold start injector.. seeing as my pumps and wiring were all screwed up and i removed a bunch of cooked wires, im pretty sure i may have disconnected or deleted the wires for the cold start. ( cant recall it was a few years ago)
im thinking about just running new wires ... any direction would be greatly appreciated . just want to be sure im not leaving anything out . im thinking it should be quite simple a direct tap from the hot side of the rear fuel pump run the wire through a new thermo switch that i will mount on the right side ( abondon the left in place until the next time i have the motor out seeing as the left is impossible to access).im thinking i should run the wire in and out of the injector then in and out the thermo switch then to ground so the switch is on the ground side or should it be the reverse??? .


Thanks

I'm pretty sure the CSV is only energized when the key is in the CRANK position. So power it via the starter and an appropriate thermo switch.

^^ Correct. It runs off the start solenoid via a thermo switch - bottom of LH chain housing.
Once the oil temp gets up to warm the thermo switch breaks that circuit so there is no CSV on startup.
Alan

as always great information ... So to be clear the only time the cold start should be spraying is when the starter is cranking and the motor is cold below 110 deg +- a little .. This may explain why i didn't see voltage on the cold start injector . i never checked while cranking.

Correct.
Not an easy thing to get to to check. Easiest done when engine out.
If you need to check, post the query and we will work a way thru it. My CSV was frozen/rusted stuck.
Alan

Not sure about the temp. I thought it was much lower, but could be remembering incorrectly.

There is actually a range of temps for the TS. Depends which one you have. But at 100+F I would think you are in hot start mode for all of them. The temp is usually stamped on the body of the TS.
If you get it out, easy to check - hot water, ohmmeter , thermometer.
Alan

Alan,
I am assuming that one contact on the TTS should have about 25 ohms and the other contact should be closed (grounded) when cold then open (ungrounded) when warm. Is this correct?

Thanks

Rahl

Yes - the hot side of the switch is feeding a heater element, and while cold (closed) it is making contact with the other terminal.
When it is hot the circuit is broken.
I can't quite figure which way you should be measuring the resistance. Either your way, or across the two terminals. You will soon see if it is functioning at a specified temp. If you can, look for a temp number stamped on the body.
Alan

the TTS also has power going to it to heat it up so it opens and turns off the CSV when cranking too long.

Whichever way you measure the resistance - Yellow wire side - earth, or across terminals (can't remember), that is the heater element. If you put power over it, I think it is a 8 sec delay before it breaks the circuit.
Alan