What secret not losing axle bolts ..

[ertech]

It’s the 3rd time in 2 years I loose an axle on transmission side ? Torque to 60ft/lbs . New bolts and dry treads no grease .
Should Input red loctite?
Car is an 89 with 6x m10 bolts
Thanks guys

[66cal912]

Use Loctite, or drill the head of the Socket head cap screws and run safety wire from one to the next bolt as you go around the axle, twist the safety wire between each bolt, then tie off the last one to the first one you started with.

Drill the cap screw perpendicular to the axis of the bolt about midway down the head. or just below where the six kant stops, so you can check the torque every so often still during service work, after being safety wired.

[gsxrken]

Don’t use the paper gaskets in between anything either. They compress and you lose stretch.
And retorque after about 50 miles. Then you should be good.

[reclino]

I plan on using Nord-lock washers, but had to source slightly longer bolts.

[ertech]

I will try loctite . red or blue?
how would I retorque if use loctite?
thanks

[Alan L]

You can re torque - but the Loctite effect is largely gone - you have broken the seal.
It is weird. I torque mine once, and no issues. Have had engine out several times using these bolts. No Loctite.
One thing you could do is mark the top of the bolts once finished - with white eraser pen, or a spot of paint. That way a quick visual check will tell you if any have moved. I recently pulled the engine - and found from memory one 'soft' bolt, ie not fully torqued.
Alan

[zinger]

I used Stage 8 kit a few years ago. Very happy.
https://www.stage8.com/import-performance-locking-fasteners/import-cv-joint-locking-bolt-kits/

[66cal912]

I've used these conical lock washers specifically for socket head cap screws and had very good results also. As per retorquing after loctite has dried, no good, then the loctites doing nothing, all you could do, is install with loctite, drive quickly, then retorque before loctite has dried fully, but I think you will have better results with these washers or safety wire. I would go with the steel or zinc ones personally, not a huge fan of stainless hardware, it can create false security or gale, unless ARP stuff.

Hopefully pelican doesn't get bent on the link, since this is specialized hardware they don't really sell:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/standard-washers/lock-washers-4/belleville-spring-lock-washers-for-socket-head-screws/

[Dr J]

Originally Posted by reclino

I plan on using Nord-lock washers, but had to source slightly longer bolts.

I’m with reclino on this.

[infraredcalvin]

Originally Posted by 66cal912

I've used these conical lock washers specifically for socket head cap screws and had very good results also. As per retorquing after loctite has dried, no good, then the loctites doing nothing, all you could do, is install with loctite, drive quickly, then retorque before loctite has dried fully, but I think you will have better results with these washers or safety wire. I would go with the steel or zinc ones personally, not a huge fan of stainless hardware, it can create false security or gale, unless ARP stuff.

Hopefully pelican doesn't get bent on the link, since this is specialized hardware they don't really sell:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/standard-washers/lock-washers-4/belleville-spring-lock-washers-for-socket-head-screws/

Yes, this is the proper solution, also called a schnorr washer. Should use new washers every time, multiple 914s and 930 for over 30 years, never had one come loose. No loctite and use cardboard gasket to keep grease in cvs.

[Alan L]

Yes agree a schnorr washer would be the likely choice. Since I have my engine due to go back in next week - as soon as my bits arrive, I checked to see what I had been using.
Nothing. No washer. That is the way it was when I first pulled it apart. And has stayed like that since. Probably pulled the engine about 5 times over last 10-15 yrs. And did a rear axle wheel bearing last yr.
I have never had them come loose.
Same goes for my SC. Engine out 2-3 times over last 20 yrs. No issues.
Hope this is not the jinx
Alan

[OldSpool87]

I use Schnorr plus a witness mark on each. I got some bright orange Markal Security check paint for an easy visual.

[Alan L]

So I just reinstalled my engine, and torqued the CV bolts.
Previously I have not used washers, and checking my work notes for the car, find I am using 50# torque, compared to the book value of 60#. This is not an error on my part, just that 60# felt too tight. I have had no issues with near 20 yrs on the track with this method.
Today I actually fitted schnorr washers and used 55#. I will probably have loose bolts now :-)
But one thing I do is the way I torque them. I can only properly access two at a time. 12 o'clock and the next one nearest you. I mark them as I go. So 3 rotations of the joints, using the ebrake to hold them. After I have 6 marked bolts, I go back and check the first two. The hub is now much tighter than when you did the first two.
Alan

[Alan L]

So I have my SC on the hoist right now - doing a couple of jobs and thought to check.
No washers also - same as my 930 was. And have had no issues with the SC in over 20 yrs. I have had the engine out 2-3 times, but I would have put the CVJs back the same way I found them.
Alan

[Jeff Alton]

Clean threads, internal and the ones on the bolts. CLEAN. Use a schnoor washer, torque to correct spec. Lost count of how many times we have done this over the years and never had an issue. We also do not use CV joint gaskets and not leakage of grease.

cheers

[aschen]

you don't need those PITA gaskets, even on the early cvs with the recess for them? Dang I wish I knew that years ago

[Locker537]

If the axles come out frequently, loctite is a pain to clean off. Learned that from this process.

Schnorr washers are good.

I have been using the wavy spring washers for success. My SC does not have the little plates on the axles.

[Alan L]

I don't have plates on any of the axles.
Alan

[ertech]

just happened again tonight , I put new bolts and red locktite torque to 60ft/lbs .
should I go for the schnorr washers /red locktite or stage 8 kit?
the ones from McMaster or Nord-lock?
thanks guys

[Jeff Alton]

Do you have original axles/Joints? If they have the thick face plate the half moon plates not required. If they have an aftermarket cover plate (pressed tin) then they are required.