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935 Spring plate installation
I'm converting from an early SWB to LWB (steel trailing arms, '69-71) and am installing ERPs 935 spring plates from Tarett. Upon delivery of the spring plates, the heim rod end was screwed all the way into the plate assembly. Since I'm welding in new trailing arm mounts, I believe I need to center the toe adjustment within its full range before I weld-in trailing arm mounts. What would be a good recommendation for lock nut and heim rod end adjustment before setting the trailing arm locations? My inquiry to Tarett resulted in no response; they did refer me to ERP, but since it's a custom install, it's too complex for average tech support.
FYI - the car is street only, and before I weld in the trailing arm mounts, I'm setting the stub axles to zero toe-in using a string alignment, -1 camber using digital angle leveler, and ride height equal to the center of the torsion tube - which is my preferred height. ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by wkrtsm; 07-25-2024 at 09:55 AM.. |
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I figured it out. I have to assume the plates and the heim end rod and locking nuts were shipped totally screwed in because the assumption is that the car is an early LWB with (obviously) its trailing arm mounts installed. Thus, they leave it to the user/installer to adjust the toe, assuming of course that for an OEM LWB car, the full range of allowable toe adjustment will provide what's needed 99% of the time.
Last edited by wkrtsm; 07-25-2024 at 08:32 PM.. |
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Since I just installed these and instructions weren't clear to me: you can install them fully threaded in. To adjust, turn the middle nut and the left and right threads will move the heim joint and large threaded piece apart evenly. Then tighten the heim joint nut and large thread nut to lock in place.
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2014 Cayman S (track rat w/GT4 suspension) 1979 930 (475 rwhp at 0.95 bar) |
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