Another rust combat

[proffighter]

While my EFI conversion is making good progress and almost finished, my chassis needs more attention. The origin of the "brown pest" is 10 years back:

I bought the car in optically bad condition, lot of dents and paint damage, well used I would say, but almost none visible rust. A good base for my needs, as I wanted to build a nice toy, not a daily driver.

So I started to remove things I did not need anymore like heating, backseats, radio and all that stuff. The more I removed, the more I saw what has to be done else.

At a certain point I came to the conclusion, that I have to disassemble completely and remove all this protective material and the estimated four different paint coatings to check, what's underneath.

After a few shots removing that stubborn stuff, I searched for alternatives. Finally I decided on a base treatment. So I disassembled the car down to the raw chassis and stripped everything what had to come into the bathing. the big plus for this method is, that only rust will be gone, healthy metal stays untouched.

After the bath the whole story of the car was clearly visible:

To my suprice almost no rust, which was seen now as non existing metal, but a lot of accident signs all-around. I will post some pics later on this, have to scan them first from old photo-prints.

However, the body shop repaired some of the badest damages and after the car was primed with a 2K epoxy layer and painted as usual.

This was the birth of my rust problem: The painter did not painted the cavities or just let some paint fog (right word?) in. For my beginner eyes, the car looked nice like new at this time.

To make a long story short: I built-up the car and started driving.

After a few years (I drive only for fun on sunny days, made 10'000km within 10years) I observed some rusty water comming out of the rockers and tank support after washing the car

So I checked this and found raw areas almost in every cavaties, some had a little paint. As emergency procedure I made a body cavity treatment myself, because I did not found any serious shop here, who was able to do this seriously...

After a few visit at several body shops (from professional to feckless) I found one who will do this repair good and lasting for a long time For this, I have to disassemble the car again. So I take this chance and let him do some other work I wanted to do anyway in the future like closing the Sunroof opening, strengthen the weak areas etc..

[proffighter]

Here are some pics from today:

[proffighter]

As I said before, I take this issue to correct some other things I did not like or failed over the last then years like cracks from coil-overs and damages by the track use of my forerunner:

[full quack]

Your car has lived a very hard life my friend....... the only real way to properly revive it, would be to strip it down to a complete bar chassis. I mean all the way down to bare metal.

Then properly repair/replace all affected areas, then repaint and then reassemble. However, you probably already know this.

There are products out there to treat the rust{RUST-MORT}, and stop it in it's tracks, but it does not repair the damage, really just another bandaid, but what are your expectations for life expectancy?

Mark

[proffighter]

Yes, completly down-strip is what I do now. The chassis will be blasted where need is to repair/replace some sheetmetal. As you can see too, the back areas of the engine bay are quit deformated. This I want to fix too.

After discussion with my body shop guy, we will open the rockers etc. and see how it looks behind. Finally we will do what have to be done, so I can drive her for the next at least 20 years without body issues (fingers crossed)

As we talk about rust treatment, we will use Waxoil I think, heard good things about it and it's available here in Europe

I start next week and will update this thread once or twice a week, depends on time I can spend, not married and no children

[proffighter]

After a little time prepairing at home to store parts until refittment I started took today off and started with disassembly.

Here the last pic of the car before:



I started with stripping doors and then removed them:







Next was remove of the seats and harnesses:



And finally cage:

[totle]

Hi Roland, looks you will have more work ahead of you.
Keep up the good work

[proffighter]

Only few progress today, front lights and rear quarter windows removed and one new "part" fitted

[proffighter]

Got a little time today to go on

Remove Windshield, rear window and dashboard:

[proffighter]

Gauges, panels and ventilation removed:

[proffighter]

This weekend I removed Whaletail, front and rear bumper, backlights and at the end the Intercooler:

[Jim2]

How far are you going to strip the car Roland?

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by Jim2

How far are you going to strip the car Roland?

Jim

Totally

[proffighter]

Fuel drained and tank removed

[proffighter]

Engine is out, finally

[steven c]

I am a big fan of POR-15 as I own an Italian(the country where tin worms were born). You must follow the instructions and neutralize the surface before application but I have never seen it fail. My mechanic uses it on all the Italian's he services and swears by it.

This is a big job you are doing Roland, good work!

[proffighter]

Steve

I know POR-15, a friend of mine uses too, good stuff I believe.

I won't do the sheet metal/paint work myself, a professional with experience on Porsche will do.

Don't know what product he uses for box sections etc. and what kind of treatment.

Unfortunatly I saw a few things I can do while I am there So it will take time until she's back on the track...

[bleachii]

Very cool Roland. However, I didn't find this project in the 101 Projects book

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by bleachii

Very cool Roland. However, I didn't find this project in the 101 Projects book

You'll find in the Volume II

[proffighter]

Please see here for collateral issue:

Strange clutch issue

Thanks