correct procedure for retorquing heads
 

finally hit the 1000 mile mark on my newly rebuilt
76 3.0l motor just before the salt hit the roads here in New England.
Dropping the motor to address the worn synchro's. figured to would go through and retorque the heads and check valve clearances.

What is the preferred procedure for retorquing the heads . canyon studs originally torqued to 24 psi using the 3 stage torqueing method . I used red Loctite at the case side of the stud and never seize on the washer and the barrel nut on the head end .
Now for the retorque do i simply set my torque wrench to 24 psi and click through them in the pattern from the static position ?
or should i back off a 1/4 turn and then torque 1 at a time ? or loosen all a 1/4 turn and retorque using the pattern?

curious on opinions as i have seen all three used back in the day on various different head applications.

Things sure did change over 20 years



Regards Ned
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733239535.jpg

I do not believe that it will make much of a difference either way, as you will end up at the same torque value. But if you start from static, then you will know if any of them have actually loosened up.

I'm not sure I'd loosen then tighten, I'd simply put a torque wrench on them in the appropriate order and check there's no movement.

If you were to loosen them, then to achieve the correct result I would imagine you'd have to loosen them all first, then retorque again in the appropriate order. If you did that, in 1000 miles you'd be right back here. Also, there's the potential for debris to get between the mating surfaces.

Agree,

I would only verify the torque to the required amount, in the recommended final tightening sequence. I would not loosen and then retorque. Much like verifying lugs are still tight on a wheel after the first 100 miles. Loosening has the potential to disturb the mating surface seal at the head to cylinder or around the base of the cylinder to the copper base gasket and case. I'd be concerned with the loosening disturbing the lower copper gasket mating surface leading to an oil leak, out of the case which you don't want there, particularly on that center cylinder that receives more heat.

I m sure it's nice to have 1000 miles on it now!

Thanks for the input guys make sense..
out of the 24 i had 1 barrel nut move just a smidge.




Regards Ned