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Unhappy scavenge pump help please!

Hi,
What can I do about a pump that seems to leak only under pressure? It does not drip at all but whenever I drive the car, oil covers the oil line from the pump all the way to the back (WG & drip tank).

I have replaced the 2 seals that fits the housing, but how could I determine if the pump is leaking itself? And is there any replaceable part inside the pump?

Really dont want to spend $900 for a new pump

thanks...
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Old 07-27-2005, 06:32 AM
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Am I the only one with a leaky pump???
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Old 07-28-2005, 05:39 AM
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I'm not clear on your problem. The oil pump is inside the engine>
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Old 07-28-2005, 05:50 AM
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This is the turbo scavenge pump that is mounted off the left CAM.
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Old 07-28-2005, 06:02 AM
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Sorry, I not familiar enough with thw turbo cars to make a recommendation
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Old 07-28-2005, 06:09 AM
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Asphaltgambler, turbo's have a cam driven scavange pump for the turbo mounted outside by the #3 cylinder and is where the smog pump is driven too.

Hobie boy, I haven't had a leaking problem with mine. I would think if you got it really clean and took a short drive you might be able to isolate the problem. Check that flare fitting where the metal line from the turbo enters the pump. Is one of the seals you replaced the cam seal?

This might be an option if the pump needs to be replaced:

Quote:
Originally posted by Porsche Doc
I don't mind a bit!
We came out of the turbo and ran a line to the lower side of the valve cover. It inters the valve cover right in line with the oil return tube. Try to keep the line going down hill or strate. But theres plenty of pressure to keep the oil flowing. It works great.
Good Luck

Its on this motor:
FS 93 965 Turbo S Engine
Old 07-28-2005, 06:12 AM
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Thanks for the suggestion mike (89turbocabmike)...
Yes, I have replaced the CAM seal, the gasket behind the pump housing (where it mates to the cam housing) and the seal rings where the oil line goes into the pump.
Judging from where oil is (on the WG, the oil line, & drip tank) and the fact that nothing drips when parked, I thought it must happen only when the pump is working. Hence questioning if there's anything replaceable/rebuildable.
I used to gravity drain the oil from the turbo as well but was advised by many turbo experts to not do that - oil needs to be sucked away fast to not drown the turbo I was told
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Old 07-28-2005, 06:38 AM
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Hobieboy,
The pump itself is seviceable if it is leaking, there is an internal O-ring as well as the pump shaft seal. The O-ring is easy, the shaft seal requires that you drive the pin (that the cam end engages) out of the shaft so the seal can be replaced. The parts can be hard to find because I don't think they are listed separately, but I think they do come with the engine rebuild kits. I can supply pictures if you need,
Dave
Old 07-28-2005, 07:00 AM
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Dave,
Thanks for the info. If you can post some pictures that would be great!

I believe the seal is visible from the outside of the pump? Is there anyway to find a part # for these? I have the top end rebuild kit when I did mine last year so will take a look there too.
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Old 07-28-2005, 07:32 AM
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OK here you go. I could never find part numbers for the seal and o-ring.
Also when you disassemble the pump, I think it's proper practice to make sure the pump gears do not reindex. In other words make sure the way the gears mate together does not change.

Last edited by David Goodman; 07-28-2005 at 08:20 AM..
Old 07-28-2005, 08:17 AM
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Perfect thanks!!!

Time to get to work then. I'll report back if it fixes the problem.
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Old 07-28-2005, 08:25 AM
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Nice David, I'll have to add that pic to my archives.

I agree that keeping the scavenge pump in the system is best, besides that pulley would make a great cam signal trigger for efi

Last edited by 89turbocabmike; 07-28-2005 at 05:31 PM..
Old 07-28-2005, 05:27 PM
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ok - now my next challenge...

How do you drive that pin out? Punch & hammer doesn't work because it spins Is there a trick to this? I can't get to the O-ring or the pump internal without first drive this out.

BTW - I may have found the part # for the O-ring: 999.707.289.40
It looks to be same size but can only confirm once I open the pump.

Thanks...
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Old 07-29-2005, 01:54 PM
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Hobieboy,
Take a long metric socket close to the diameter of the pin (I think its 4mm) and slide it over one side of the pin. Place the set up in a vise such that one side of the jaw sits on the end of the socket, and the other side presses on the other end of the pin. Close the vise (or press if you have one) until the pin is nearly flush with the shaft. Finish the job by taking the socket and placing it upright in the vise with the long end of the pin in it. From the top use a pin punch and a BFH to drive it the rest of the way through the shaft. Let me know if you want pictures,
Dave

Last edited by David Goodman; 07-29-2005 at 10:17 PM..
Old 07-29-2005, 10:15 PM
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A quick update...

I successfully changed the o-ring inside the pump and uses some loctite 574 before I close it up. When I removed the pump, there was no oil at all around the seal & pin, & I dont have the part # for the seal so I left that alone.

The sad news is: I'm still leaking Even though I have replaced the seal (& used curil-T) between the pump & cam housing, it does seem to be where the oil comes from.

So, it may be time to re-check the mating surface between the 2 housings Or I'll just live with it for the rest of the summer.

Thanks for everyone's help! At least now I know the pump can't leak from within
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Old 08-15-2005, 11:27 AM
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I realize this is an old thread...

hobieboy,

Did you fix that leak.. I had a similar leak and bought all the seals that come for the smogpump and scavenge pump.. There are 2 seals, one o-ring and a paper gasket.. I did the seal to the cam (that was the one that was clearly leaking) and the paper gasket to the mating surface of the housing. The scavenge pump seal and o ring were not replaced (seal was dry, so I knew there was no oil leak).

That leak is now done for me.. .but that cam seal needs to be seated properly. The lip of the seal can bend back, and the small spring in behind it which tightens it to the cam then gets misaligned.
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Old 11-11-2006, 06:24 PM
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Yes - it turned out mine was leaking from the banjolt bolt seal. I'm using a crush washer for now but have a new hard line on the shelf if I ever need replacement.
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Old 11-12-2006, 03:43 AM
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David, thanks for the socket tip. I was worried I was going to bend the pin, but I got it out with no problem.
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Old 10-18-2007, 03:52 AM
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Glad I could help!
Old 10-18-2007, 06:40 PM
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