installing a K27 and maybe rebuilding it...
 

Is there anything I need to install a K27 7200 to replace my 3ldz? New pressure pipe if they are a different size? air intake piping change?

Or is it all bolt on.. no mods at all?

Also, I noticed the rebuild kits for $79 or so.. it it worth rebuilding at that price since I don't know much about this 7200? Are they hard to do yourself?

You may have to fabricate a pressure boost pipe from the turbo up to the intercooler. I have done this several times. The pressure side of the new turbo is not the same as the 3LDZ

It should be a staight bolt on. Get the billet adapter that goes between the turbo and the pipe to the intercooler. Imagine has it.

Drive it for 50 miles w/o boost before you do boost.

You will also likely have to tweak the turbo support bracket which is attached to the engine mount - vice and a hammer required, but easy to do.

You can put the overhaul parts on a turbo yourself, but there is some technique to disassembly and reassembly when dealing with breaking a compressor nut loose and retorquing it. When doing anything near an exposed compressor wheel you risk damaging it. They are very fragile.

You will also need a pair of very small internal snap ring pliers, and propane torch or heat gun. I did mine and used my elbow torque wrench, as I did not have a torque spec for the nut. I have done a few others though, so I'm used to dealing with retorquing by hand.

Takes about 2 hours to do.

Jim

Going to a K27 should be a good upgrade according to most - mine came with a K27 & other mods, but have ridden in a stock 930 on track. Mine is definitely way quicker.

But there is of course the not-so-small price difference ;) And the variants of K27 you can get these days.

Just a K27-7200 for me.. None of the other variants required. I'm more concerned of having to touch the car and change things on the car. That is something I am not prepared to do, which is why the bolt on mods are all I am entertaining.

Mark:

Has the boost bug hit or are you going with the K27-7200 upgrade only?

You can also bolt on the IA fuel head mod, GHL exhaust and Blownsix intercooler!

Please let us know what you do about rebuilding the turbo, I am interested in home-rebuilding as well.

Boost bug? naaaa... I think it's safe to say at this point that it's an incurable disease!

All kidding aside, I like the bolt on's for it's back to stick prximity. Some of my buddies who have other makes of big power cars (like a Nissan 300TT with 585rwhp) are telling me to just buy another engine and modify the hell out of that to install in the car.. leaving the original engine alone..

I think I need to learn how to drive the car to it's potential first. I like the powerful machines, but don't want to even think of the money that goes with it.

I will see about the rebuild and post on it if I do it. I haven't found threads that give that detail on rebuilding turbo's.

You might want to get a better intercooler (unless you already have one) since you're upgrading the turbo. It will increase the air temps going in and you need to cool it back down.

Billet adapter
 

I have the billet adapter you will need, it's just like new. $25

Is the adapter the only item I need? I also presume that some of you have gone without the bracket? I have a muffler bracket which I will retain though.

Some mod the bracket, some don't.

I just installed my K27 Hyflow-S, but didn't have time to mod the bracket this weekend before going to the track. When I get back I will. I think it's a good idea.

BTW. Sonny is selling a new HF or HF-S at a great price. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=314347

I saw that today.. it is certainly a great price... I just got a regular K27-7200 to see what all the fuss is about.. I gather I can get it modified to an HF if I really need more (I am already inquiring with Stephan about that).

Down the slippery slope I go!!!!! WOOHOO! lol

Adapter
 

Mark,
Here is the adapter I think you are going to need, the guys here on the board will let you know for sure.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1164682427.jpg

Yes sir. You will need one of those or cut your OEM pipe. Better move to get an adapter.

Subscribing cause I'll be doing this project too in the near future.

got my adapter, thanks to Tripster... I'm ready to go now! I'm going to try it without the turbo bracket first, until I get my hands on a spare which I can modify.. or I'll get one of my machinist friends to do one up (they are good friends to have).

Thaks all for your help. Will keep you posted on wether or not I rebuild the turbo over the winter (i haven't received the turbo yet).

So I received the K27 turbo today and there is a little (I do mean little) shaft play on the compressor side.

1. Is there supposed to be no play at all?
2. Will a rebuild kit remove the shaft play, or do I need to do something else?

I'll let you know later, unless someone beats me to it. But my just arrived today also. I haven't seen it yet, but when I get home I'll check it out and report back.....

Mine is new, and it has a very minimal play amount. I mean if I wasn't focusing on it just for end play I wouldn't have noticed it. Hope that helps.

I don't know how much is too much... mine barely moves.. but it does move. What is the tolerance for these things?

I'm no expert, but if it barely moves I'd run with it. You may want to wait until the experts chime in.

The other thing, you mentioned that it's only on the compressor side? Mine moves a little on both sides.

This side moves a TINY bit:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166483485.jpg

This side moves just a touch more:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1166483524.jpg

That's because there is a pivot point, for lack of a better term, that is closer to one end then the other.

The compressor side is the only one that moves (that I can see/feel). The turbine side does not move at all.

Shaft end play is also something I need to test. The manual says that radial play should only be measured on the turbine side, but shaft end play (lenghtwise) needs to be measured as well. .35mm for end play and .65mm for radial play on the turbine side are the max settings. I imagine they are similar for the K27, the ones I typed are for the 3LDZ.

Ok, just to be clear, when I said mine moves it is side to side. I just checked to see if the shaft would move in/out there was absolutely no movement.