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Turbo compressor blades

How 'damaged' are compressor blades required to be for them to be useless.. and not provide anything supplying boost?
My compressor wheel (cold side) has a really small piece of the corner (maybe 1-2 square mm) of one of the blades cracked off or missing... Is this significant?

I'd take a picture, but my camera doesn't provide clear enough pictures this close up.
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Old 01-07-2007, 11:03 AM
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Even more importantly, picture the currently present smaller amounts of damage that could cause further damage via a worsening imbalance. Those pups spin at hellacious rpms.

Kevin said this kind of damage to MY turbo:




is worth replacing both wheels.
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Old 01-07-2007, 02:32 PM
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Makes sense. I just don't know enough about the dynamics of a turbo to ask... keeping in mind I don't track my car... would it make sense to get it balanced with that little knick in the blade? I actually sent an email off to IA to see if they sell jus the blade.

Craig, in your last picture, if you take the larges gouge in the center, there's just about that much taken off the corner (cold side though), maybe slightly less.

i wasn't sure you could buy just the blades, and also, wondered if you could upgrade at that point? (K27 7200.. or so I think)
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1987 930
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Old 01-07-2007, 04:04 PM
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For those of you interested.. check out this link..
http://www.melett.com/pdfs/KKK/3K%20K27.pdf
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Old 01-07-2007, 04:47 PM
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These blades are NOT good. It's amazing what one small piece of debris will do to a brand new HFS turbo.

Old 01-07-2007, 05:04 PM
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I'm wondering If I indeed have a 7200 and not a 7006... can anyone tell with the following # 5327 970 7200?
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Old 01-07-2007, 05:43 PM
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Mark, ultimately you might consider sending your turbo to Kevin for his work -
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"930 is the wild slut you sleep with who tries to kill you every time you "get it on" - Quote by Gabe
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Old 01-07-2007, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mark '87 930
I'm wondering If I indeed have a 7200 and not a 7006... can anyone tell with the following # 5327 970 7200?
That is a 7200 Mark. The 7006 will/should have 7006 on the tag, mine does.
Old 01-07-2007, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 89turbocabmike
That is a 7200 Mark. The 7006 will/should have 7006 on the tag, mine does.
Mine does too. A bit blurry, but you can make it out if you're creative...

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Old 01-08-2007, 06:54 AM
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thanks guys.. I got a quote for a compressor wheel here in Canada.. it's $225CDn ... I thought that was a bit much don't you think?
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Old 01-08-2007, 07:00 AM
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educated opinions please..

pardon me for sounding like an idiot.. but can I get an edumacated opinion on this turbine shaft, I do mean edumacated. It is smooth despite how it may look...

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Old 01-08-2007, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by mark '87 930
thanks guys.. I got a quote for a compressor wheel here in Canada.. it's $225CDn ... I thought that was a bit much don't you think?
You're not trying to rebuild a turbo yourself, are you?!?! Even shops send turbos out to specialists. The reason being is that you need to balance the rotating assembly, which takes special tools. You should just send yours off to someone to be rebuilt. This is absolutely not a DIY job.
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Old 01-09-2007, 08:59 AM
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Do you know what the shaft measurement should be? Probably not - I don't.

Honestly, frankly........stop trying to save a buck and send it to Kevin for a proper job.

Do you have any idea wha happens when a turbo goes KABLOOIE? Esp on the inlet side?

You are a playin' with fire, my boy......
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"930 is the wild slut you sleep with who tries to kill you every time you "get it on" - Quote by Gabe
Movie: 930 on the dyno
Old 01-09-2007, 09:23 AM
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Though the turbine shaft can look scorched it remains fine. If you run your fingernail along the shaft and detect a ledge at the location where the bronze bushings ride, this indicates wear. You can typically detect down to 0.001" maybe even a half thou if you are used to feeling for it. If you have a caliper or micrometer compare the area where the bushings ride versus the center of the shaft between the bushings. (I seem to recall that the KKK shaft is o.3750" - 3/8") The center is a non wear area which will be original tolerance. Up to a couple thou (0.002") or even a little more wear is fine.

You also need to measure the bushing bore in the bearing housing. I believe it is supposed to be 0.625" - 5/8" (must have been an imperial dude that speced the sizes for KKK!) Again, compare area between the busings for non wear size. You will need to find somebody with a pin hole mic or telescopic gauge. Any machine shop would do it for you if you just ask.

Unknown to most, the bearing fit on a turbo is very loose in order to create a significantly thick oil blanket on the ID and OD of the bushing which acts as a cushion for absorbing minor imbalance. One or two thou wear on the shaft is irrelevant when considering your dealing with 10-15 thou clearance.

KKK bearing housing overhaul kit I bought out of ADP Distributors in Vancouver was under $90. I also bought a new bearing housing which was $110 and I think ADP brought it in from Toronto. They can also supply compressor wheels, but your quote of $200 sounds normal from what I recall.

Look in your phone book under "balancing". Call any shop and they will refer you to someone with turbine balancing gear. Years ago there were two shops here that could do it, probably more now.

Jim

Jim
Old 01-09-2007, 09:47 AM
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I do have a shop here that is doing the final assembly/inspection. Actually, turns out they are the distributors for the Borg turbos in Canada. Most of the turbo rebuild is a DIY shop, but I agree that the final verification and balancing of assembly is not.

Being in Canada drives prices up astronomically for sending equipment back and forth.
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:48 AM
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Jim,

Actually, ADP is who I am dealing with, I was curios about the shaft due to it's color. sounds to me like when I bring it in, I'l lbe inthe clear.

Thanks for the note.
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:53 AM
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Mark, if you need any parts from my....

3LDZ, call me.....I am going to keep it for a spare, or parts, for me, or for friends......only issue is that I have yet to be able to remove it from the freakin' car. I have been soaking the 4 bolts from the exhaust to the turbo inlet for 2 weeks, and nothing.....can not budge even one of them.....since I don't have access to anything hot enough to cut them off, I am debating a cold chisel at this point.......getting very frustrated.....but once it's off, if you need anything, just holler.
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83 930 Turbo....the car I have always wanted!!
K27 7200, Tial 46mm WG with straight pipe, Fabspeed Exhaust,B&B halfbay IC, Wevo mounts, Rennline floorboards, Rennline goodies, Optima mount, Elephant finned oil lines, widemouth cooler, high speed fan.
Old 01-11-2007, 09:13 AM
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Mark,

I will have a 3LDZ of my own to fiddle with if all goes well (and it looks like it is going to happen), so no spares needed, but thanks for the offer. When I replaced my exhaust, the nuts weren't that hard to get off! If you really need to cut them off, you can always use a hack saw to cut through the bolt, or my personal favorite..a dremel or handheld grinder. Those work REAL well.

I am getting a second opinion on the turbo from a shop that just does turbo's... they sound much more promising.. not to mention knowledgeable. Hopefully won't be to pricy.

Did you want a hand with your turbo replacement? Is your bumper off the car?
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Old 01-11-2007, 11:39 AM
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I used a hacksaw.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
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Old 01-11-2007, 02:04 PM
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Bumper is off of the car.....

and the muffler is off of the car now too.....I need some time to take a few photos and post them here. I was told that I would not have any issues fitting the Tial 46mm wastegate. That was not accurate. I had to trim the fins on one side to get it to fit, there was no other way. Also, I can't, for the life of me, get any tool, wrench, spanner or stubby socket to reach the rear nut holding the oil feed line to the turbo, no matter how hard I try.
I think I will get the dremel out, and a hacksaw, and see if I can get the bolts off, to remove the turbo. Unfortunately, that won't be for a while, I am away until next week now.
I have the Tial installed, the IA billet valve covers installed, and I have a beautiful new K27 waiting, and a new muffler, and a new B6 IC.......just need to get the turbo in, so I can do the rest......
I haven't been rushing it, or impatient though. I may very likely call you once I get the turbo off, to help with the install, especially of the IC, and removing the old BOV assembly....I really am a little leary of making a mistake there, and then blowing up the car after all the work and money........
I seem to go at it in spurts when I am motivated, but I have been dealing with some personal issues too, so the car has been sitting for a few weeks now. I will give it another dousing of PB blaster tonight as I fly by, and then try next week one more time before I cut them off.......
Thanks for the response, and you too Nathan......I will try to post a few pics next week.
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OK, I have this car, now things are out of control !!!!
83 930 Turbo....the car I have always wanted!!
K27 7200, Tial 46mm WG with straight pipe, Fabspeed Exhaust,B&B halfbay IC, Wevo mounts, Rennline floorboards, Rennline goodies, Optima mount, Elephant finned oil lines, widemouth cooler, high speed fan.
Old 01-12-2007, 07:32 AM
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