Type/Grade oil recommendation needed

[DDDD]

By the way, what number do you have for Amsoil's technicians? I am curious what is in their octane boost.

[Craig 930 RS]

A big Amen to that -

[timc]

Originally posted by DDDD
By the way, what number do you have for Amsoil's technicians? I am curious what is in their octane boost.

715-399-8324

Post your response from Amsoil...

[Randy Blaylock]

"Also, our good old standby of Mobil 1 15w50 has been reformulated to and SM classification, and now has 0.10% or less Zn and P. It looks like we will all need GM EOS pretty soon. (Thanks to John Dilger of the 911S Registry for letting me know of this sudden change on Mobil's part)"

"Same goes with Mobil 1 15w50 - if that is what you use, get a bunch of the SL formulation before all that is available is the new SM. You do not need the STP 4 cyl treatment or EOS with the old formulation of Rotella or Mobil 1, only the new ones."


__________________
Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance

'91 964 C4 Cab



__________________

[sand_man]

Always seems to be a thread about oil lurking about:
New Shell Rotella 15W-40 now has boron
Some great info from th LN site:
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

I change my oil too regularly to justify the expense of synthetics. I plan to perfrom one more oil change with the Mobil Delvac 1300 Super and then I 'll send off for an oil analysis test kit.

[cnavarro]

Hey guys, saw this thread and wanted to let those who are currently using m1 15w50 that they significantly reduced the Zn and P in the new API SM formulation- I would highly recommend either adding a bottle of EOS or switching to the V-Twin 20w50 formulation, which is still and API SG.

[Craig 930 RS]

This?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-Vehicle-Care-EOS-Assembly-Lubricant-Oil-Supplement_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46098QQihZ00 3QQitemZ130079854115QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

[cnavarro]

Yes, but if you go to your local GM dealership you can get it for less. I paid something like 4.90 a bottle.

[mb911]

Originally posted by Craig 930 RS
Originally posted by Craig 930 RS

Jake, did you know the M1 in a car that has seen only non synthetic can more often than not spring some leaks?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I disagree. I have switched over 12 cars that I have owned from mineral to Mobil 1, and I have never ever experienced leaks from the switch: Toyota Land Cruiser, Volvo's, BMW's,
***************

It is a well-known issue with 911/930 engines, TimC.

craig,

I have never had any problems either on my p-cars or my every day cars.. nut again most are broken in on dino then switched pretty quickly

anyhow someone asked about amsoil.. I used that for years but the prices have gotten out of control. and heck it's made right here in wisconsin you would think it would be cheap.. I switched to mobil-1 last year and will run it again cause it is much cheaper and all the tests I have seen compare the 2 very closely

[Craig 930 RS]

Correct, most do see dino at first them Mobil 1 after rebuild - the recommended way. It is what my rebuilder had me do.

But, in many cases it is pretty well known when you run dino for years and years - say a 911SC, then switch to synthetic - leaks almost always occur.

[timc]

Hi Ben, Funny, the reason I switched from M1 to Amsoil was the M1 changed the label on the 15/50 to extended and raised the price to over $6. I paid I think I think approx $30 for the Amsoil preferred program and bought their 10/40 for $5 a quart. The money I save on all of my cars switching just about pays for the diff going up to their 20/50 racing at $7 a quart. Anyway, that was my reasoning...

[Craig 930 RS]

And reduced the overall 'quality' of the oil too.

Zinc & Phosphorus really took a cut - all the more reason to possibly seek out another proven oil, IMO.

[timc]

Originally posted by Craig 930 RS
And reduced the overall 'quality' of the oil too.

Zinc & Phosphorus really took a cut - all the more reason to possibly seek out another proven oil, IMO.

Yea, I read that. I also got tired of supporting their mega billion dollar revenue. Right now I'll run amsoil while i research...

[Craig 930 RS]

Redline as an alternative is what the oil geeks - and a local friend - say to go with:
Synthetic Oil......opinions and testing

[930gt-40r]

My father has been a dealer for Amsoil since the eightys. (no he doesnt sell oil for a living.) He got his Amsoil dealer card so he could order the stuf for his own cars, if anyone is interested in Amsoil, let me know.

[911boost]

Castrol GTX 20-50 here.

I agree with Craig. I put Mobil 1 in my mustang once, and I mean once, due to the leaks. Of course, I think I was 17 at the time.

Bill

[DDDD]

Originally posted by Craig 930 RS
Redline as an alternative is what the oil geeks - and a local friend - say to go with:
Synthetic Oil......opinions and testing

What is the exact Redline product you like, for the street? I am in Viriginia, and my car is never below freezing but often in the 90's.

[h20cooled7]

20/50 has any1 experienced low oil tank levels until warm then the level is fine? is this normal. no oil light and the druck presures are high.

[Craig 930 RS]

Red Line oil - it appears that this is truly a better alternative to Mobil 1:

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?productID=8&subCategoryID=1&categoryID=1

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?categoryID=2
----------
Oil expands when hot, and the level rises.

[DDDD]

Originally posted by h20cooled7
20/50 has any1 experienced low oil tank levels until warm then the level is fine? is this normal. no oil light and the druck presures are high.

I think you need to warm up the engine just to check the oil level, so my understanding is that this oil fluctuation is normal, in fact my oil level changes when I am driving versus idling by a little bit. Also the oil pressure seems to change once you are under way. I think you should look at your levels when you are driving with a warm engine as your best indication.

I have heard from more than one mechanic that you really don't want a full oil tank, it is better to be about half a quart short so that your oil level is no higher than the mid range on your gauge. You can ask around for the reason, but this is something I do religiously. I don't max out my oil gauge, I am always a little short. I think it may keep your engine from having too much oil pressure, but I am not sure of the exact reason. My mechanic won't fill it past the half way point on my gauge, he just doesn't think it is a good idea.