Type/Grade oil recommendation needed

[Craig 930 RS]

Idle, above 180 degrees, flat ground, use dipstick & trust this the most.

[930gt-40r]

Diddo on what Craig said- The best way it was explained to me was to look at the temp and level gauge- these two needles should be pointing at eachother at idle and on flat ground at running temp. At driving speed the level will go down (this is natural, dont worry about it).
But as Craig said, use the dip stick as the REAL indicator, the level should be between both marks indicating half full. The reason for this is the oil needs room for expansion.

[Craig 930 RS]

For sure - the oil level will really rise in the summer when the temps may get well above 180 -

[DDDD]

Originally posted by 930gt-40r
Diddo on what Craig said- The best way it was explained to me was to look at the temp and level gauge- these two needles should be pointing at eachother at idle and on flat ground at running temp. At driving speed the level will go down (this is natural, dont worry about it).
But as Craig said, use the dip stick as the REAL indicator, the level should be between both marks indicating half full. The reason for this is the oil needs room for expansion.

Between both marks, half full, to allow room for oil expansion. In other words, stay about a half quart or more shy of a full tank and you'll be good to go.

[930gt-40r]

that is correct

[NathanUK]

The reason for keeping the oil inbetween the marks is so that when cornering hard you don't get any oil sucked into the intake of the engine from the oil tank.

[Craig 930 RS]

I do that primarily for expansion when the oil becomes hotter than standard 180-ish idle temps.

[NathanUK]

Yep, it's a combination of the two. I think when cold you wouldn't suck any in.
The disadvantage when running lower levels is that you can suck more air bubbles into the engine from where the oil is being returned and splashing around.
I forget the technical term for it...

[911boost]

What these cars have dipsticks? I thought you just added oil when the gauge was low...

Smile.

[h20cooled7]

how low is to low on these engines? can you run a few quarts low (hypothetical situation)? if you dont have a oil light?

[DDDD]

Originally posted by h20cooled7
how low is to low on these engines? can you run a few quarts low (hypothetical situation)? if you dont have a oil light?

I think you want at least 10 quarts in it for normal driving.

But the nice thing about having 10 quarts is that you can leak a couple or three quarts and survive if you make sure to fill it back up pretty quick. Try that in a regular car.....

My mechanic has a customer he hates because the guy is too cheap to fix his oil leaks and he literally leaks oil everywhere he goes, including at my mechanic's shop. He typically adds 3 quarts at a time when it gets low. Like I said, try that in a normal car.....

Not recommended!

[DDDD]

Originally posted by Craig 930 RS
Red Line oil - it appears that this is truly a better alternative to Mobil 1:

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?productID=8&subCategoryID=1&categoryID=1

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?categoryID=2
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Oil expands when hot, and the level rises.

Okay, the 15-50 and 20-50 in this ad say that they are not meant for engines that have oil temperatures sustained below 225 degrees. For that they recommend 10-40.

How does this apply to a 930? I run normally at 180 degrees on the dash readout, hardly ever more. Am I missing something, or is that an indication that I should run 10-40? I have been using Mobil 1 15-50.

Again, it is normally hot in Virginia.

[timc]

Yea, I saw that too, and wondered the same thing, but I am thinking you cannot take Redlines spec's for their 15/50 and compare that to another company's 15/50. Alot of people run 20/50 in other brands. I always used M1 15/50, now use Ams 20/50, and if I decide to go to Redline, according to their spec's I'd use 10/40.

[Craig 930 RS]

Try the second link - look around, you'll find one for your use.
Ten bucks per quart.......yipes.

[Randy Blaylock]

It's $8.99 at B & B in Redmond, and many other places...

I'm going to use 30wt race oil. .250 Zn and .240 P, although not much in the way of a detergent package. This will work well in my application, probably not for most street cars though.


www.racerpartswholesale.com

[930gt-40r]

When I worked at Porsche of Fairfield, Some IDIOT brought a 993 twin in with the oil light "turning on and off" as stated in the RO. Im thinking its a bad pressure switch as someone who spent $100,000 on a car would at least check the oil......NOPE! The car was 8 quarts low. I saw the car for another 10K miles before I quit working there and it ran fine. The moral of the story is yes the car lived, however I would not want to see his rod/crank bearings or see the results of a leakdown test. You could get away with 2- 2 1/2 quarts low, just be carfull and fill it up as soon as you catch wind of it.

[Craig 930 RS]

Yeah, since the apparent decline of Mobil 1 Redline sounds like a real alternative.
Although any synthetic would clearly be better than dyno for a 930 or other engine that sees hard use -

[timc]

Going down to Baton Rouge LA this week to visit my Wife's sister and husband. He manages the Mobil Oil plant there. I'll ask him about the changes to M1....So bottom line is they have reduced the Zn and P, correct?

[cnavarro]

Yup, that's the bottom line. My direct question would be why lower it on a product that does not need to comply or be regulated by the API SM standard.

[Craig 930 RS]

Charles -

What qty of the GM additive would you add for a stock + couple additional quart 930 system?
I have quite a stock of the SL M1 oil, but when that runs out, off to the SM with less Z & P....