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F350Lawman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Car won't shut off!!!

Today I stopped to pick up some food and when I shut the car off and removed the key it kept running. Several attempts to reinsert the key and turn it to the off position did nothing, the car kept running. I could shut the accesories on and off but the car still ran. I had to go inside and pick up the food while my 10 year old daughter eyed the car from the restraunt window. I told her to shout if anyone touched the car.. and then cover her ears so the gunshots wouldn't damage her hearing.

I called my mechanic and asked him what he thought, and after we talked, I figured I'd go home and pull the relays for the fuel pumps once I got in the garage. About 1/4 of the way home I noticed that putting the wipers on (the ran real slow??) made the tach fly up about 2,000 rpm. I got to thinking that this is electrical and that maybe the heat, which I had on (and hadn't tried in awhile) might be the cause. I shut the heat and after about 20 seconds the car lost power and died...no fuel, the car was still in the off position. I fired her right up and went home and she shut off. It appears that electrical connections in the heat controls were was the culprit.

Any thoughts??? Do I have a melted wire or short??? Everything seems normal, good power, smooth running, good lights, all accessories function, fanbelt in place..etc.
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1987 930 - K27 7200 / DAS Full Cage / Blownsix Intercooler / BB Headers / Zork Tube / Tial 46mm / Adjustable WUR / RPM Activated Solenoid / Open Element Air Intake / Smart Racing 27mm Sways / 24 and 33mm Torsion Bars / Adj. Spring Plates / Wevo Strut Brace / Monoballs / Tow Hooks / Oil Cooler Scoop / Brey Krauss Harness Truss / Race Seats / XD-16 AFR Guage/ 17" Kodiak Racing Whees and Nitto NT-01 255/315s
Old 03-13-2007, 06:58 PM
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Jim Pasha mentioned in an excellence article (2005?) that a bulb in the glove box melted a wiring harness...
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Old 03-13-2007, 07:14 PM
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Hi,

You must look at the diode right behind the tachometer (KM-meter).
The diode is this case broken.
You have to take it out and measure it and if it still oke, you have look for other problem.
I now this because I did have the same problem.

cheers,
Old 03-14-2007, 08:51 AM
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Thanks, I will check everything and post in a few days.
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1987 930 - K27 7200 / DAS Full Cage / Blownsix Intercooler / BB Headers / Zork Tube / Tial 46mm / Adjustable WUR / RPM Activated Solenoid / Open Element Air Intake / Smart Racing 27mm Sways / 24 and 33mm Torsion Bars / Adj. Spring Plates / Wevo Strut Brace / Monoballs / Tow Hooks / Oil Cooler Scoop / Brey Krauss Harness Truss / Race Seats / XD-16 AFR Guage/ 17" Kodiak Racing Whees and Nitto NT-01 255/315s
Old 03-14-2007, 07:08 PM
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Current is leaking back into the system, it doesn't take much to power the electronic ignition to keep it running. A one way diode running between the alternator wire that runs to the alternator light on your gauge can sometimes fix this. It did with my MSD. You have something leaking somewhere.
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:37 PM
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It sounds like you got a short-to-power between the heater control and the ignition. The only place where I could see those wires being that close to eachother is in the fuse panel.
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Old 03-15-2007, 07:29 PM
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Well I REALLY wanted to drive today so iIdid all my errands and the car started and shutdown fine about 10X. Mechanic looked at it briefly and said the ignition switch feels funny, kinda loose. We'll see.

I tried heat and couldn't duplicate the condiiton??? Who knows...Gremlins??
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1987 930 - K27 7200 / DAS Full Cage / Blownsix Intercooler / BB Headers / Zork Tube / Tial 46mm / Adjustable WUR / RPM Activated Solenoid / Open Element Air Intake / Smart Racing 27mm Sways / 24 and 33mm Torsion Bars / Adj. Spring Plates / Wevo Strut Brace / Monoballs / Tow Hooks / Oil Cooler Scoop / Brey Krauss Harness Truss / Race Seats / XD-16 AFR Guage/ 17" Kodiak Racing Whees and Nitto NT-01 255/315s
Old 03-15-2007, 09:10 PM
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gremlins are bastards.
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86' 930/GT-40R Sold
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2008 C6/Z51 Corvette
Old 03-16-2007, 06:21 AM
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