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Location: Chas, SC
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1) 2nd picture: that is part of the smog, I would remove. There should be one on both sides of the engine, remove both and all associated hoes and pipes.
2) 3rd picture 3: is where the two small vacum hoses from each of these devices (above) meet and tie into a third, you will plug this third hose after removing the two vacum hoses as stated in (1) above.

I don't see the AAR in any of your pictures above, not that you don't have one, you just have not shown it in a picture yet. I'd leave the AAR alone for now, just get the smog and cat off then see how it runs, then evaluate if you want to consider removing the AAR. I am considering the same with my AAR, have not decided yet.

tim
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Old 03-16-2007, 12:10 PM
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The AAR is not a smog component.

I would remove all of the smog equipment first and see where you are. THEN remove the auxilliary air equipment if you wish. It is all easily reversible, you have nothing to lose.

The AAR was added to the CIS in '78. Pre '78 911s used a hand throttle to keep the engine idle elevated during warm up. So, to me, this is a useless device. I just push the gas for 10 seconds or so until the engine will idle well on its own.
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Old 03-16-2007, 12:55 PM
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Sorry, I should have been more specific, somtimes I am just to vague, I was addressing "dykers" reference to removing the AAR, I did not mean to imply that it is part of the smog, as it is not, but as you stated to enhance warm-up.
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Old 03-16-2007, 01:21 PM
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Ok ... so now that you are removing the smog air pump system and associated diverter valves and hoses ... will you be removing the metal air distribution manifold that feeds the exhaust cylinders? and if so have you gotten the appropriate plugs for this... BTW to remove the air manifold you have to drop your headers to get to the driver side connections.....

I am going through the same process with trying to decide if I take all the extra time to pull all the stuff out...



Good luck.
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Old 03-17-2007, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by jwmarc
Ok ... so now that you are removing the smog air pump system and associated diverter valves and hoses ... will you be removing the metal air distribution manifold that feeds the exhaust cylinders? and if so have you gotten the appropriate plugs for this... BTW to remove the air manifold you have to drop your headers to get to the driver side connections.....

I am going through the same process with trying to decide if I take all the extra time to pull all the stuff out...



Good luck.
Yeah, well sort of. I removed all those things you mentioned. I'm going to plug the part that goes to the CAT. As for the injection part, it was cut right before the split and capped off. When I get around to doing the headers and such, then I'll remove the rest of it. But it's fine for now.

Thanks to Wayne (Oh Haha), he was a huge help today. Today we actually did the valve adj. We did it the backside method, which was kinda neat. I had to have the mark just past the other mark to make the .0025 feeler go. If it wasn't in the exact right spot it wouldn't even fit.

All I have to do now is put it all back together.

I do have another question if you guys are up to it. After I removed all that stuff on the left side I was left with a wire, the O2 wire. But it wasn't plugged in. Maybe I unplugged accidently.

So, where does the O2 sensor hook up?

EDIT: Ok nevermind, I found out where the O2 sensor went. I must have unplugged it accidently when pulling on all that emmissions stuff over there.
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Last edited by wcc; 03-19-2007 at 04:34 AM..
Old 03-17-2007, 01:46 PM
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This was a fun project today. The backside method was a little strange at first but once I got the feel for getting the paperthin feeler guage in there it wasn't too bad. We double checked our work using the elephant foot .004 measurement, just to be safe. I've never worked on a 930 before so I was looking forward to learning about it. Now, how DO we change that boost spring? Muwahahahahahahahaha!!!

EDIT: I forgot to look at the 02 sensor before leaving. Sorry about that.
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Old 03-17-2007, 07:35 PM
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back side valve adjust

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken911 View Post
I did not have any luck with the backside method, works good when it's out of the car but, i couldnt reach them all with it in the car. That being said the ones that I was able to do taught me the correct feel for doing them the normal way, and I have much better results now than before when they were a little too loose and it was pretty noisy.
Can someone please explain how this works - I'm about to do mine. Am going to try 1,2,3 intake with the engine in place. Considered removing the inlet manifold, but after reading the threads, giving it a shot with it intact.
Alan
Old 11-04-2007, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan L View Post
Can someone please explain how this works - I'm about to do mine. Am going to try 1,2,3 intake with the engine in place. Considered removing the inlet manifold, but after reading the threads, giving it a shot with it intact.
Alan
Backside method (good write up):
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_backside_valveadjust/911_backside_valveadjust.htm
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Old 11-04-2007, 01:26 AM
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Just cruzin' the forum and had to comment. I have never owned a 930, but have and had air cooled Porsche's for years. I have always done my own maintenance.

Why not use the dial indicator method? I had a '72 911 and I became very efficient at using the dial indicator and left little to "Feel". I found that I could read the lash to .00025" repeatedly. Is there an access issue with employing this method?
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:48 AM
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I also am running my 964 Turbo without the AAR as RarytL8 states. When I removed it the only difference I noticed was when engine is cold you need to sit in car for a little bit and keep engine @ a fast idel 950-1000 rpm for a few seconds till engine levels out instead of just starting it and getting out. IT just increases air mixture by bypassing the throttle body until the bimetalic spring warms up and shuts the opening off. Sort of like the way the wur opperates on start up.
Old 11-04-2007, 12:12 PM
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