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wcc wcc is offline
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First Valve Adjustment on my 930

I've done them before on other cars and even the '85 911. But this time (on Saturday) I thought I'd try the backside (Go/No-Go) method. Any tips or tricks being a turbo? Anything else I should do or check while I'm in there?
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Old 03-14-2007, 10:43 AM
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The backside method is the only way to go.. I did a few the other way.
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Old 03-14-2007, 01:05 PM
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wcc wcc is offline
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Wish me luck! I may check it after it's adjusted just to see what it feels like the regular way. But I've read about this method and it looks very straight forward with less emphisis on 'feel'.

Was everything fairly easy to get to? Any watch out for this or that?

Probably not, but it's nice to get a heads up once in a while....
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Old 03-15-2007, 05:42 AM
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I did not have any luck with the backside method, works good when it's out of the car but, i couldnt reach them all with it in the car. That being said the ones that I was able to do taught me the correct feel for doing them the normal way, and I have much better results now than before when they were a little too loose and it was pretty noisy.
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Old 03-15-2007, 07:06 AM
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Bill,

I need to do mine also...I just look at the left side of the engine compartment and feel like I want to take a nap...Have you guys tried a partial engine drop..i.e. remove aft mount bolts and drop engine 20 degrees? Clean shot from the flank! Air lines, Intake boots and intercooler might not be in the way???I would feel better if I had done a 930 left side intake before. Do the O rings need to be replaced everytime you yank the IC?

Good luck!
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Old 03-15-2007, 07:24 AM
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I've taken my intercooler out a couple of times and put it back without replacing the O rings. Just be careful when putting the intercooler back cause you don't want to pinch/gouge/ or damage the O ring and you should be fine.

According to the Turbo workshop manual not much really has to be taken off, but I'm sure I'll be taking off quite a bit of stuff to get in there.

Actually, this really will be my first time doing a valve adj on a P-car with the engine still in the car. So I'm sure I'm in for a treat!
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Old 03-15-2007, 07:47 AM
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mine i took off the intercooler, air cleaner,disconnected the hoses for the smog pump and let them hang out of the way, i worked around the airpump no problem. i did the traditional way upper and lower valve covers .was a chore but i can probably cut my time in half next time.
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Old 03-15-2007, 09:49 AM
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I stripped the top of my engine to get at the top adjustment. I don't think dropping a little would help all that much unless you were prepared to undo everything except the driveshafts and do a full partial drop. You can inspect some things at the same time. I had the oil feed to the turbo repaired etc etc
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Old 03-15-2007, 10:58 AM
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yeah no reason to drop
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Old 03-15-2007, 11:01 AM
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Well I started. The left side, like mentioned earlier, is a mess! I honestly still have my doubts about actually removing the covers and getting to the valves with the engine in the car. But, I'm slowly making progress. I do have some questions though with all this air pump, diverter valve, air pump filter and belt, etc...

Is that a bunch of emissions stuff? If so, can I leave it off? If that is the case what else can I remove and leave off?





Sorry, not a good pic. There is a spring that looks like it's broken. I can see where it's supposed to go but it doesn't look like it really does anything. Should I replace it or forget it?
Spring= GREEN ARROW
Where it goes (metal connector behind hose) = BLUE ARROW
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Old 03-15-2007, 06:10 PM
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Bill, I can't vouch for what you can take off for sure, but I don't have any of that stuff in my car. All my air pump/smug stuff was removed before I bought the car, so I had more room. In your second picture, I think I only have one of those 'black boxes' you're holding in your hand.

I did my valve adjustment (the regular way) inthe fall prior to putting the car away. I did it with the engine in the car, and I didn't even remove the air pipe going to the turbo, like you did. I admit, it wasn't easy and I have now less skin on my hands because of it.


Get in there, and get 'er done.
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Old 03-15-2007, 06:42 PM
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Any smog laws in Michigan?

Here is a picture of my engine. Take a close look at what is NOT there. All I have is a Fuel Head, WUR, and a Cold Start Valve. That's it. In Michigan you might want to leave on the AAR. Everything else can go.

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Old 03-15-2007, 07:45 PM
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I took everything that attached to the smog pump and of course the pump (top of first pic) including all the air and vacum lines off mine. Also, regarding the switch that you are holding in the picture, one is for smog it can go, the other one stays, not sure which one you are holding, but when you follow the air lines you will see. Just take your time and follow all of the lines. There was one I had to plug in the center under the intake, you'll see what I mean when you start following the air and vacum lines. I also disconnected the O2 and removed the cat. Installed euro muffler. Car runs so much better, and best of all, all of the heat that is generated by the cat is now gone. After many discussions on this board, I run my CO at 3% around town, then when I take trips I set it at 2%. Car runs very good.

Very easy to get to the drivers side upper and lower valve covers with engine in the car to adjust valves. I can't imagine doing it with all that smog on it...


Tim.
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Old 03-15-2007, 07:56 PM
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Brian, Does yours run ok w/o the AAR? I'm in SC so I was wondering if I could dump that also.
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Old 03-15-2007, 07:58 PM
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whats the other one for? i tossed them both
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88 turbo Guards red Targa slant nose, and yes I am a horsepower junkie, 3.4liter,7.5 to 1 JE pistons, Adjustable WUR, Imagine fuel head, 1 bar waste gate headers,allthe cis toys. Now apart to become the next EFI monster. fabbing my own intake, headers Individual throttle bodies, MS-3, pauter rods, Xtreme twin plugged heads, gt-2 evo cams cop's.
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Old 03-16-2007, 04:23 AM
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No smog laws in MI. Well that'll make this project a little easier if I can just remove this stuff and not worry about putting it back on.

Any ideas on that spring that's broken? My first inclination is not to worry about it. I looks to weak to really do anything.

Here's a little better pic:

Spring= GREEN ARROW
Where it goes (metal connector behind hose) = BLUE ARROW

EDIT:
Ok, another question I just came up with. As I remove all the emmissions stuff, is there anything I need to cap off or can I leave most of it open to the air?

I was reading this thread which made me wonder what else I need to cap off.

Air pump removal and modifications
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Last edited by wcc; 03-16-2007 at 06:43 AM..
Old 03-16-2007, 04:50 AM
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Bill,

I believe the spring you refer to is a tensioner for your throttle. Without this connected, there is no assistance to return the throttle to a completely closed position.

David
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:55 AM
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My engine runs just fine without the AAR, actually it runs better without it. An anoying device in my opinion.

That spring is a redundant throttle return or assist as stated by David.
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Old 03-16-2007, 09:46 AM
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Yeah, it looks like it's a backup to the main spring. I'll try to replace it I guess.

I have a couple more questions for you guys about this emmissions stuff.

How do I remove this belt? Cut it or is there another way? By not having this belt installed is it going to affect the oil pump in any way?


Can I remove this too? It goes to the same hoses as the rest of the emm stuff.

The only question I have then is can I leave this part open to the air or do I have to cap it off? See the brown hose in the pic, it goes to the previous part:

Lastly there is a big black hose from the bottom of that part 2 pics ago. Where ever that goes can I leave that open too or do I need to cap it off?

Thanks guys, your a HUGE help!!!
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Old 03-16-2007, 11:20 AM
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I would just cut the air pump belt, as it's not that expensive, and if you want to remove it intact you'll need to jack the car up, and get to the front side of the engine and remove the cover that goes over the air pump pulley. Yes, you should be able to remove the two diverter valves. My recommendation would be to plug any hoses that you choose to disconnect. I would suggest you talk with a CIS specialist before choosing to remove the Auxillary Air Regulator (AAR). While I can understand that Porsche installed the air pump for the sole purpose of meeting US emission requirements, I find it very had to believe that Porsche would have put the AAR device on the system if it didn't have a valid purpose.
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Old 03-16-2007, 12:35 PM
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