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Merv,

Stop playing with the turbo and you'd have the money for the roll bar in about 2 weeks

I'm the "get the right TB" camp first and then if necessary, fine tune with coils. If you run heavy coils, your adding weight and complexity. Your likely spending as much money for the whole setup and seemingly complicating things when corner balancing.

Does anyone know how you determine how much preload you apply to the coil over versus ride height from the TB? I mean are you going to lower the spring plates to then raise it back with preload from stiff coilovers? I guess you could run them barely engaged, but this would open a chance for rattles it would seem.

6 springs sounds like a Monster Truck
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Old 03-28-2007, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lukesportsman
Merv,

Stop playing with the turbo and you'd have the money for the roll bar in about 2 weeks
Mate, I was quoted ~$700 to ship a darn DAS bar to me here in Australia! How INSANE is that? It's almost the cost of the actual roll bar itself U're right though, but I really wanna set up the motor and engine management properly first, before taking to the track and putting her under sustained loads
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Old 03-28-2007, 07:21 PM
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MORE TURBO!!!
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Old 03-28-2007, 09:21 PM
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You want to preload the coils enough that they don't fall off the upper perches when the suspension unloads under normal use, or use a tender spring to pre-tension them. You hit the idea, to set the ride height a little low in the rear with the T-bars, and bring it up just a bit on the coils.

For serious track use, you can't get enough wheel rate from T-bars alone, "helper" coil overs are a must, and don't really produce the balance issues you would anticipate. A complete coil-over setup is ideal for mostly track use to outright race cars, to get enough total wheel rate to control weight transfer with big sticky tires and such, but a complete cage tied to the pick up points is mandatory.

The 934 used T-bars and coils because of rules constraints...
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Old 03-28-2007, 10:05 PM
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Curious, is upgrading the TB's a simple DIY install? I know the corner balancing would need to be performed by a workshop, but the TB's are a simple R&R job, right?
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Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition
Old 03-28-2007, 11:00 PM
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The fronts are easy, the rear can be anywhere from an annoyance to a rear pain in the a$$. The only significant height adjustment on the rear is by indexing the bars, so you may have to try a couple different positions to get the right height which means putting everything together so you can put it on its wheels and then take it all apart if you're off a hair.
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Old 03-29-2007, 04:40 AM
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Look into Smart Racing Products, they can sell you a complete package, which will be taylored to your use. My experience with their kit has been very good, as it did exactly what I was looking for. Flat cornering, not too harsh, and predictable at the track. Make sure you upgrade the rear sway bar mounts, as they WILL break eventually. To me, it was money well-spent.

And yes, the rear bars can be quite a pain. My advice, make sure you index and mark the spring plate locations as they are now before you take them off, so that you at least have a baseline to measure from. There are some very good tech articles on Pelican for reference.

Shipping from here for $700? That's just plain crazy. You can probably have a bar made for far less...
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Old 03-29-2007, 07:17 AM
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Get the adj spring plates. It will make the installation easier and corner weighting as well.

It still kind of a guesssing game to start though. Your new TBs will be stiffer and will not wind up as much as your old ones, making the back end stand up like a hot rod. Measure your old spring plate angle as it hangs free, then you will need to guess where to place the spring plate on, but it will have less angle than the old one. Write down where you started and what you try. Also, keep your car in one postion each time you try it.
Old 03-30-2007, 04:26 PM
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I have used Wil and Thom's calculator many times with succes for setting ride height with new bars. The bars never needed re indexing when they were corner weighted.

I think you can find it here www.vintagebus.com click on "porsche stuff"

Cheers
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Last edited by Jeff Alton; 03-31-2007 at 12:59 PM..
Old 03-30-2007, 06:54 PM
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If you have any buddies in racing, be it any tube chassis -drag, circle or road they'll have the scales. Mine ran about $1k and have been really eye opening on my 911 as well as my coil over Mustang. In any case, if you get the ride height close and all the bars swapped a shop shouldn't rob you to scale the car and balance it. If you have adj spring plates a 911 adjusts about as easily and quickly as a "race" car.

Plus, I just think you'll be shocked at how much more modern it will feel loosing the float and lean. Get a old Falcon or Commodore to relive the lean.

Check some local SCCA style shops and get some qoutes for a local custom bar. It can be made to fit the AU rules and won't have all those shipping/tariff fees.
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Old 03-31-2007, 05:56 PM
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