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wcc wcc is offline
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930 Brake Job Tech Article

I just thougt I'd share my brake job write up because there isn't many 930 specific tech articles. I'm NO BRAKE EXPERT, this is just how we did it. All I can say is WOW they made a HUGE difference.

930 Brake Job:

My rotors were past due, so I did a complete removal and replacement of the rotors and pads along with adding SS brake lines and removing the dust shields. So with the help of Wayne Walter (Oh Haha) and Randy Doine we got started.

First off, start by jacking up your car and supporting it.

Remove the wheels.

Spray PB Blaster or WD40 on your hard brake lines that go into the caliper and your caliper bolts and let it soak in good.

Remove the pad wearing sensors.

Remove the pad retaining springs and remove the pads

Next unhook the hard brake line that goes into the caliper. Place a pan to catch the brake fluid.

Unbolt the caliper and remove. The fronts have a couple of spacers between the caliper and the mount.

On the rear:
Remove the spacers using a rubber mallet and putty knife and PB lube to separate.

Remove the two screws that hold the rotor in place. Hand held impact driver can be helpful here if they are stuck.

Then the rotors slide right off.

On the front:
Remove dust cover. I used a slide hammer with a piece of threaded rod and some nuts and washers. It came right off.

Remove wheel bearing retaining nut by inserting a long allen wrench through the hub housing access hole into the retaining nut set bolt.

Unscrew the wheel bearing retaining nut.
Pull off the rotor being careful to catch the outer wheel bearing and washer.
Remove the rotor from the hub
Clean as much of the old grease out as possible.

NOTE: At this point itís a good time to install the SS brake lines if you want and to adjust and clean your parking brakes.

Optional step 1:
We took a hacksaw and cut a couple grooves in the brake pads about 2/3 of the way through. This allows the dust and gasses to escape better.

Optional step 2:
We removed all the dust shields. Remove the fronts by removing the three bolts and it comes right off. The rears are more difficult. You have to remove the parking brake assembly to get to the four bolts that hold it on. Then all the bolts are removed we cut the shields in half and they fell right off.


Clean the inside part of the rotors before installation. Itís just easier to do off the car.

Reassembly:
On the rear:
Install the new rotors.
Hook up hard line to the Calipers and immediately install the calipers.
NOTE: Itís easier to get the line installed with the calipers not mounted.
Clip in the new pads with the retaining spring.
Insert brake pad wear sensor.

On the front:
Repack inner bearing
Install new seal if you removed your inner bearing.
Install new rotor to the hub and slide it on.
Install the repacked outer bearing and washer
Screw on wheel bearing retaining nut snug and back off till the washer underneath the nut is slightly moveable without much pressure.

Tighten the retaining nut set bolt by inserting a long allen wrench through the access hole in the hub.

Install the dust cover using a block of wood and a hammer.
Hook up hard line to the Calipers and immediately install the calipers.
NOTE: Itís easier to get the line installed with the calipers not mounted.
Clip in the new pads with the retaining spring.
Insert brake pad wear sensor.


The next step is to bleed the brakes. Since 930 calipers have two bleeder screws on each caliper we treated each one as itís own caliper. So instead of thinking of four calipers we treated it like it had eight calipers. But we used the same method as a four caliper car. This is the order we used:
PS Rear outer
PS Rear inner
DS Rear outer
DS Rear inner
PS Front outer
PS Front inner
DS Front outer
DS Front inner
We did this process twice since we ran all new brake fluid through to assure it was bled properly.

CHECK FOR LEAKS!

No leaks, Good!

All thatís left now is to put the wheels back on and get it on the road.

This is a VERY important step. The new pads have to be seated properly with the new rotors. This is done by going roughly 40-45mph and applying firm brake pressure and come to a stop quickly, but not a panic stop. Then drive some to allow the rotors and pads to cool. Then repeat a couple more times at 40-45mph. Repeat again a few times at 60mph, and 70mph allowing the brakes to cool sufficiently between stops.

Now you are all done! GOOD JOB!

DISCLAIMER: This is the way WE did it. You should consult a Porsche service manual for more detailed instructions.

Written by: William Campbell
Special thanks to Wayne Walter (Oh Haha) and Randy Doine for making this article possible.

Ain't it just sexy:


Sorry about not having more pics. The article was an after thought.
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Last edited by wcc; 04-03-2007 at 03:33 PM..
Old 04-02-2007, 06:33 AM
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William - Good right-up! I am doing the same thing this weekend. Right down to the S/Steel DOT brake lines and also removal of the dust shields.

Thanks for the tips.

Regards - Yasin
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Old 04-02-2007, 06:51 AM
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Yasin - The only brake line issue I ran into was the PS rear. The hard line twisted so I had to replace that and the inner side of the flex brake line was REALLY rusted together. But after 3days of PB on it and lots of cursing it finally came apart.

I'm glad you'll be able to get some info out of it. If you have any questions as you're doing it post 'em up or email me.
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Old 04-02-2007, 07:08 AM
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Bill - What brake fluid are you running and also which pads did you buy? Get excited to bond with the car this weekend...LOL!

Thanks!

Regards - Yasin
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Old 04-03-2007, 11:34 AM
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Super Blue Brake Fluid:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search.cgi?command=show_part_page&please_wait=N&make=POR&model=BE39&section=UPrc39&page=12&bookmark=13&part_number=706302-M4

Metal-Master Brake pads:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_BRKpad_pg2.htm
So far I've been really happy with them. No noise at all, and so far not much if any dust. I hope they stay that way.

Good Luck! It's a fun project.
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Old 04-03-2007, 11:39 AM
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This may be a dumb question - but why remove the dust shields? Don't they contribute to proper cooling flow? Also, the front shields on my car have an inlet for adding a cooling duct. I would think that this would be good for track days?
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Old 04-03-2007, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Stephen B
This may be a dumb question - but why remove the dust shields? Don't they contribute to proper cooling flow? Also, the front shields on my car have an inlet for adding a cooling duct. I would think that this would be good for track days?
To start with, I don't track my 930. I think you'll find most people that track their car remove them as well or they add cooling ducts, but I can't speak for them. But for the street there's plenty of cooling going on anyways. Also, I HATE brake dust on my wheels, so with those removed the dust can go elsewhere. Not to mention, it looks WAY better with them off IMO.
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Old 04-03-2007, 03:32 PM
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We ordered the same pads Bill...! I should get some of that fluid, did you only need one or two liters?

Yasin
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Old 04-03-2007, 07:26 PM
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If I may chime in:
This brake system was the easiest to bleed of any I have done. The stopping power of this setup is incredible!!

1 liter of brake fluid was enough to do the job, BTW.
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Old 04-04-2007, 03:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by wcc
Not to mention, it looks WAY better with them off IMO.
I agree!

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Old 04-04-2007, 05:50 AM
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Has anyone seen the speed bleeder valves for the 930 calipers? I understand they do not make them for the large valves on the 930. Anyone have any knowledge on this, please chime in as I loved the speed bleeders on the Gt40, made it a simple one man job.

/Tony
Old 03-24-2008, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1topcat View Post
Has anyone seen the speed bleeder valves for the 930 calipers? I understand they do not make them for the large valves on the 930. Anyone have any knowledge on this, please chime in as I loved the speed bleeders on the Gt40, made it a simple one man job.

/Tony
I have speed bleeders on mine and they work like magic.
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:27 PM
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Hey Les,

I agree, they work like magic, but I can't seem to find ones that fits, of course, including our host. Did you place them on, or were they on when you purchased the 930?
Old 03-24-2008, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1topcat View Post
Hey Les,

I agree, they work like magic, but I can't seem to find ones that fits, of course, including our host. Did you place them on, or were they on when you purchased the 930?
Hi,
I put them in and I believe I got the from Pelican or Performance.
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---Les Garten---85 930, Andial IC, GHL Headers, Fabspeed Dual, K-27 HF2, 3.4 JE Full Finned 7.5:1 CR, 964 CAM'd, Carerra 3.2 Manifold Cut/Flipped, Tec3r, Siemans 55#, GSF Fuel Rails, Clewett Crank Trigger, Clewett Cam Trigger,Dual Plugged, ARP Head Studs/Rod Bolts, Clewett Wires.Tial 46mm WG, Tial 50mm BOV, WEVO Shifter,934 Boost Gauge, Wideband EGO Sensor/Gauge, C2T Head Gaskets, '88 MB 300TE,BMW R100RT
Old 03-24-2008, 10:48 PM
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Great, Thanks Les. I will try Performance as a sales rep at Pelican told me they don't carry and that they don't even make one that large (for the 930). If anyone knows the part number or source, please let me know.

/Tony
Old 03-25-2008, 04:55 AM
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Tony, did you ever get a response? I talked to Ed at RaceShopper.com. He thinks they sell every size available, if I can figure out the mm size, length and thread pitch.

Thanks, Dean
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:51 AM
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Holycow,

Yes, I found them at performanceproducts, part #0 910102 SPEED BLEEDER. Remember you have two on each caliper, so you will need 8 total or 4 pairs (sold in pairs). I have not put them on yet, but I am fairly confident that they fit the '89 turbo calipers (or other years with that size caliper). I don't know why there is all this effort on the pressure bleeder systems when this is so easy. The only thing to be concerned with is getting up to make sure the Master does not run down to low and suck in air.

However, you can drill a hole thru a spare Master cyclinder cap and fit a hose to a second larger brake fluid bottle and essentially pump the brakes without that problem. To this end, you can place a hose and empty bottle on the bleeder valve to accept the old fluid and air and completely flush out all the lines to your heart is content.

Anyone have any concerns with that approach? I have done it before on other vehicles with great ease and success.
regards /Tony
Old 04-17-2008, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1topcat View Post
Holycow,

Yes, I found them at performanceproducts, part #0 910102 SPEED BLEEDER. Remember you have two on each caliper, so you will need 8 total or 4 pairs (sold in pairs). I have not put them on yet, but I am fairly confident that they fit the '89 turbo calipers (or other years with that size caliper). I don't know why there is all this effort on the pressure bleeder systems when this is so easy. The only thing to be concerned with is getting up to make sure the Master does not run down to low and suck in air.

However, you can drill a hole thru a spare Master cyclinder cap and fit a hose to a second larger brake fluid bottle and essentially pump the brakes without that problem. To this end, you can place a hose and empty bottle on the bleeder valve to accept the old fluid and air and completely flush out all the lines to your heart is content.

Anyone have any concerns with that approach? I have done it before on other vehicles with great ease and success.
regards /Tony
That's how I flushed mine. Worked like a charm.
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---Les Garten---85 930, Andial IC, GHL Headers, Fabspeed Dual, K-27 HF2, 3.4 JE Full Finned 7.5:1 CR, 964 CAM'd, Carerra 3.2 Manifold Cut/Flipped, Tec3r, Siemans 55#, GSF Fuel Rails, Clewett Crank Trigger, Clewett Cam Trigger,Dual Plugged, ARP Head Studs/Rod Bolts, Clewett Wires.Tial 46mm WG, Tial 50mm BOV, WEVO Shifter,934 Boost Gauge, Wideband EGO Sensor/Gauge, C2T Head Gaskets, '88 MB 300TE,BMW R100RT
Old 04-17-2008, 07:28 PM
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Speed Bleeders

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1topcat View Post
Holycow,

Yes, I found them at performanceproducts, part #0 910102 SPEED BLEEDER. Remember you have two on each caliper, so you will need 8 total or 4 pairs (sold in pairs). I have not put them on yet, but I am fairly confident that they fit the '89 turbo calipers (or other years with that size caliper). I don't know why there is all this effort on the pressure bleeder systems when this is so easy. The only thing to be concerned with is getting up to make sure the Master does not run down to low and suck in air.

However, you can drill a hole thru a spare Master cyclinder cap and fit a hose to a second larger brake fluid bottle and essentially pump the brakes without that problem. To this end, you can place a hose and empty bottle on the bleeder valve to accept the old fluid and air and completely flush out all the lines to your heart is content.

Anyone have any concerns with that approach? I have done it before on other vehicles with great ease and success.
regards /Tony
Tony, thanks for the part number and approach to bleeding the brakes. I've ordered my pads and fluid, now all I need is the speed bleeders. Cheers -Dean
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Old 04-17-2008, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1topcat View Post
Holycow,

Yes, I found them at performanceproducts, part #0 910102 SPEED BLEEDER. Remember you have two on each caliper, so you will need 8 total or 4 pairs (sold in pairs). I have not put them on yet, but I am fairly confident that they fit the '89 turbo calipers (or other years with that size caliper). I don't know why there is all this effort on the pressure bleeder systems when this is so easy. The only thing to be concerned with is getting up to make sure the Master does not run down to low and suck in air.

However, you can drill a hole thru a spare Master cyclinder cap and fit a hose to a second larger brake fluid bottle and essentially pump the brakes without that problem. To this end, you can place a hose and empty bottle on the bleeder valve to accept the old fluid and air and completely flush out all the lines to your heart is content.

Anyone have any concerns with that approach? I have done it before on other vehicles with great ease and success.
regards /Tony
I have used speed bleeders onother cars, and now have second thoughts.
Problem with bleeding the old pump the pedal to the florr method is nto only sucking in air if you let the fluid level too low. A worse problem is the fact that you cycle the Master cylinder thru its complete range of motion this way. If you have any sort of rust or debris formed after all these years on the part of the internal piston or bore surface inside the MC, you will wear the internal seals across this mess. In short you open yourself up to damaging the internal seals and getting MC leaks or in need of a rebuilt unit sooner than you think.
This is the main advantage to the pressure bleeders from Motive Products, plus it is faster than with speedbleeders.
Just my thoughts.
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Old 04-21-2008, 03:06 PM
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