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WUR Vent Hose

Where should you connect the WUR vent hose that
would be disconnected when replacing your stock
air cleaner housing with a smaller BMC type. A Porsche
mechanic told me it needed to be hooked up to the IC.
This would create a positive pressure on the WUR when
in boost and negative off boost. The mechanic said without
it hooked up the car will run lean when on boost…

For those of you who know, is this accurate?

Thanks

Bob
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Old 04-18-2007, 05:27 AM
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I have a 1988 which is the same motor as the 87 and my WUR is not connected. I was told this is how it should be but others that know for sure should chime in.
Old 04-18-2007, 04:13 PM
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Hey Bob, you trust your car with that mechanic?

It is merely a vent hose - no meanigful positive or neg pressure should be appplied to it.

Mine 'dumps' to the ground, out of harm's way.

Be careful when you route it, if you have a massive WUR failure, fuel will come out of that hose.
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Old 04-18-2007, 04:31 PM
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I think my aftermarket intake came with a small cap that closed off that line. The vent line would be the one on the top of the WUR right?
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Rob Montgomery
'88 Blk/Blk 930 ('Lucy') - Not Stock & Not Running
Old 04-18-2007, 05:01 PM
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Craig,

The mechanic is actually rebuilding my tranny. I posted a "2nd gear getting ugly" thread lately. Thanks for your input, you actually told me this before. I just got confused because the CIS book says the vent controls system pressure??????I dont know. What you say makes sense because it is vented in the plenum of the air cleaner and you are not going to get positive pressure there. I think negative pressures can affect some WUR's on natural asparated engines....Does anyone know for sure?

thanks guys

Bob
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Old 04-19-2007, 08:53 AM
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Figure 6.5 shows a diagram of a warm up regulator.
The connections shown in figure 6.5, marked with blue arrows are listed below:
A Vacuum connection
(inlet manifold)
B Return to fuel tank
C Control pressure
(from fuel distributor)



This simple device is responsible for controlling the amount of fuel delivered to the engine during it's warm-up period. The pressure acting upon the top of the control plunger varies depending on the engine temperature and provides an effective method of enrichment.
The control pressure is tapped off from the primary pressure circuit in the metering head's lower chamber through a tiny restrictive hole which gives it the ability to differentiate between the two pressures. A flexible pipe then connects the control plunger gallery to the warm-up-regulator and returns back to the metering head to a connection next to the primary pressure regulator's transfer valve. This valve is in the circuit to close the fuel from the control circuit when the engine is off, avoiding the total loss of system pressure while the engine is stationary.

The internals of the warm-up-regulator are quite simple comprising an inlet and outlet port, a stainless steel shim, a bi-metalic heated strip and a spring.

The input to the warm-up-regulator flows into a small chamber in the top of the unit, its return is through a small drilling and back to the metering head. By controlling this return flow it will cause a change in pressure acting on the top of the control plunger. With a cold engine the flow must be fairly free giving it a lower pressure. This will allow a higher lift of the plunger which in turn will enrich the mixture under these conditions. The free flow is obtained by the internal bi-metalic strip exerting a downward pressure on the spring which decreases the pressure acting upon the shim, this lower force allows the fuel to flow almost uninterrupted.

As the bi-metalic strip is heated, by either it's heater element or natural heat soak from the engine, the downward pressure acting on the spring is gradually decreased, increasing the force of the spring, which in turn increases the control pressure.

Typical cold engine control pressure will be as low as 1.0 bar increasing over approx. 10 minutes to around 3.5 bar. Some warm-up-regulators have a vacuum connection that will sense a drop in vacuum and lower the control pressure during these acceleration periods.

The voltage supply to the regulator is from the fuel pump relay, because if the ignition was on without the engine running, all enrichment would be removed as the bi-metalic strip would be heated prematurely and the driver would not benefit from the cold engine enrichment.

The two pipes that connect to the warm-up-regulator have different sized 'banjo unions' to avoid them being connected incorrectly. The control pressures quoted are as an example only and reference should be made to the technical data as these pressures can be specific to the part number located on the unit's housing.
This unit will have a resistance value of approximately 20 to 26 Ohms.

NOTE :- it is important to disconnect the electrical connection to the unit before any pressure testing on the control circuit is performed as this will prematurely heat the bi-metalic strip and cold control pressures will not be available.
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"930 is the wild slut you sleep with who tries to kill you every time you "get it on" - Quote by Gabe
Movie: 930 on the dyno
Old 04-19-2007, 09:51 AM
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I'd listen to what Craig says. It's just a vent line, and I would NOT advise you to connect it to your IC or plugging it up...maybe just rout a line to dump fuel underneath the car (away from hot exhaust and electrical shizel) should there be a problem.

The WUR vent is on top of the WUR (bird's eye view from the engine compartment. The boost enrichment line fitting is on the side of the WUR and in the case of mY '87 is connected to the throttle body for manifold pressure. Actually, now it's connected to Brian Leask's solenoid switch which is connected to the throttle body
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Old 04-19-2007, 09:57 AM
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A Vacuum connection
(inlet manifold)
B Return to fuel tank
C Control pressure
(from fuel distributor)

Thanks Craig, is (A) connected to the inlet/intake manifold. Is the inlet the same as intake? Jargon? I've been a mech for years and never refered to anything as a inlet manifold. I believe you..Its confusing to me! I will vent it overboard....Thanks
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Old 04-19-2007, 10:43 AM
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Craig, Buy a lottery ticket today...look how many posts you have
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Old 04-19-2007, 10:45 AM
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Bob, get that tranny back soon, I miss my cruisin' partner...
Andy
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:44 AM
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Bob, check your PM box
Andy
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'75 911S Silver Anniversary #164(Formerly JTO's)
Rebuilt 2.7 with full ARP, 9:1 CR.
SSI, GHL, ER polybronze bushings, finned oil lines.
Lowered and corner balanced. CIS retired, now PMOs!
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:54 AM
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Old 04-19-2007, 12:19 PM
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Well I pulled the cap off of my vent line last night and ran a piece of fuel line from the vent down and out below the engine. Maybe its my imagination but I actually feel as though the car warms up better than it had before.

Just how much potential fuel will weep through the vent line? I guess I am kind of concerned with having a potentially open source of fuel anywhere near that hot motor!

Where are you guys running your vent lines to?
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Old 04-20-2007, 05:43 AM
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Rob,

Maybe Craig will give us a good example of how to locate and route the overboard dump.

Note: got my car back last night and the mechanic rebuilt my tranny replacing 2-3-4 dog teeth synchros and 2 sliders. The tranny shifts excellent and is very quiet compared to before. He also told me to use hypoid gear oil instead of the Swepco. The synchro's depend on a more viscous oil that will start the gears spinning without any contact. My dog teeth were trashed.

Thanks
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Old 04-20-2007, 09:27 AM
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Well, I hesitate to provide a how-to picture because my WUR routing is different than most any other routing - due to the RPM ful boost enrichment delay switch (shown here in mid-install)......but here it is, going under the intake manifold and out the back of the car:

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Last edited by Craig 930 RS; 04-20-2007 at 09:46 AM..
Old 04-20-2007, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 930LDR
Just how much potential fuel will weep through the vent line? I guess I am kind of concerned with having a potentially open source of fuel anywhere near that hot motor!
From what I have heard from these boards it is quite a gush
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Old 04-24-2007, 01:44 PM
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Bob,
What are the last 3 digits of the part number on your WUR?
What CIS equipment, if any, have you removed?
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Old 04-24-2007, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
(shown here in mid-install)
Craig - do you have pics of the final install of the RPM switch? I have one and (hopefully) will be getting to it in a couple weeks..
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Old 04-25-2007, 05:03 AM
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Brian, I will look tonight...and post tomarrow...I just removed the air cleaner plenum...and replace it with a smaller filter assembly. (BMC)

Thanks

Bob
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Old 04-25-2007, 07:53 AM
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Gary -

The great thing is the instructions Brian provides are top-notch, a true work of clarity and description (no pic of the finished WUR yet)
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"930 is the wild slut you sleep with who tries to kill you every time you "get it on" - Quote by Gabe
Movie: 930 on the dyno

Last edited by Craig 930 RS; 04-25-2007 at 08:08 AM..
Old 04-25-2007, 08:02 AM
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