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Exhaust Nut Removal @ Turbo & ZORK!

I’m preparing to install one of Brian’s infamous Zork “Neighbor Hater” tubes and have removed my rear bumper and soaked all four of the turbo to exhaust studs with PB blaster. Three of the four nuts are 14M copper but the 4th nut, the only one I cannot remove, appears to be a regular steel nut – but it’s clearly a 15M??? It’s the top nut on the front side of the turbo. I cannot access it from the front side although with the bumper removed I can easily access it from the back of the car. Problem is a socket will not fit between the exhaust tube and the stud. A 15M box end wrench will barely fit, when forced, between the stud and the tube but not between the nut and the tube by the flange! The open end will fit on the nut but the tube will not allow the wrench to be moved.

Should I just use a nut splitter or Dremel and cut the nut off? Why would someone install three 14M copper nuts and then one steel nut of a different size? Brilliant!

I seem to recall someone else having a similar problem but a several searchs with Turbo or Flange or Nut did not produce the thread. The other three nuts came off with very little effort. It seems like a cruel joke.

Thanks in advance….

thomas

Old 07-18-2007, 04:05 PM
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Sounds like you answered you're own question .

Either a splitter or Dremel, it shouldn't matter since I expect you'll be using new hardware anyway.
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Old 07-18-2007, 04:15 PM
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Thomas,
Timely post, I just came in from the garage where I finished up your order.

The steel nut should be 17mm hex. At any rate put the other 3 nuts back on and tighten them down to take any stress off the stuck one. Let it soak all night and give it a go tomorrow. If that doesn't work fire up the torch. Remove it first then the other 3 that are loose now.
You've got 4 new copper nuts coming.
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Old 07-18-2007, 07:00 PM
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Real Customer Service

Can you say TRUE customer service!

This Zork tube purchase has provided me with the best Porsche part related customer service ever.

What's the purpose of the odd size steel nut? The rear bumper's been off before as the car has B&B headers and exhaust with a K27 Hybrid turbo. The entire bumper and exhaust has a custom heat shield with several layers of heat resistant fabric. It's identical to header wrap but in large 13" X 36" sheets.

All of this great installation work and yet they installed an odd size 15M nut? Any ideas as to why they installed an odd size steel nut with three copper nuts?

Should I heat the nut before using a dremel or nut splitter?

There is no chance of putting a wrench on the nut unless I buy a set of micro or very small stubby wrenches and even those might not work...I think I'll buy more tools!
Old 07-18-2007, 07:31 PM
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I had this same problem when getting my muffler off. I ended up using a chisel and spinning the nut off that way. It took awhile but it worked. I also used a crap load of PB plaster for a week.
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Old 07-18-2007, 08:55 PM
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I have a set of stubby wrenches, but even those were really hard to apply any reasonable amount of force to when removing my old muffler.

If I had to do it again (using correct copper nuts now, so hopefully never again), I'd grab the dremel and split.

Rob
Old 07-19-2007, 01:06 AM
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What is the idea behind the copper nuts? Different or less corrosion characteristics?
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Old 07-19-2007, 03:24 AM
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they are copper clad lock nuts. so just steel lock nuts with a copper coating. We provide those with our ssi kits and they work very well. I must stress your best friend is anti sieze though
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Old 07-19-2007, 05:08 AM
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Thomas......

I had the same issue last winter when removing the origional turbo and muffler. I wound up cutting off the nuts, and replacing the studs with the new turbo.....on the bright side, I just went over on Tuesday and installed my RarlyL8 muffler at the bodyshop, and it took me about 15 minutes, including talk time with the body prep guy.......
I found that I can get an open ended wrench in there with a little persistence and patience, but it is a PITA.

Good luck.
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Old 07-19-2007, 07:12 AM
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Has anyone had any success using brass nuts instead of steel or stainless steel?
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Old 07-19-2007, 02:28 PM
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My current situation is a bit similar, as in this thread:
- have removed the rear bumper
- removed the exhaust pipe (Zork)
- turbo is a KKK K27-7200
- one (1) of the four (4) studs from Turbo to exhaust, is missing (or the visible part is missing).

Now where do we go from here? The place where the stud is missing, is flat.

- Please is it possible to drill out the remains of the stud?
- Does the stud have threads, that continue to the turbo-unit?
- How deep to drill (if drilling is the right thing to do)?
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Old 06-14-2010, 11:58 AM
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Depending on which one is missing and if you can get a drill in there, you might try that with ever incresing drill bit sizes. Use a center punch to start in the center, take your time and use oil to move trash and keep it cool.

If you can't get to it, then you might need to remove the turbo and then you can do it on a drill press.

Either way, if your careful you'll end up with a coil of threads that you can pull out. You can try an Easy Out, but don't over do it. Last thing you want is a broken Easy Out in there...
Old 06-14-2010, 12:55 PM
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Thanks A930Rocket, for good tips

It has been a while, since I've been doing the exhaust nut removal in bits.

- Here is the starting for the project - car rear lifted up, exhaust (Zork) removed


One stud has already been broken (top left), and I have managed to break another one too (bottom left) later. Other two studs have come out fine.



I have bought from a local hardware -store some new tools. A drill and a set to remove broken studs, and re-create the threads


Then a center punch and some drill bits



Once equipped with the right tools, 1st punched a center hole



... this worked great, stuck stud felt soft like ice cream



Then started with a very small diameter drill bit. Drilled quite carefully, as I did not want to go too far and damage the turbo-unit. In the end it has been quite easy, when the drill bit reached the end of the "stud", it felt like "the hole is through", ie. there was some air between the end of the stud hole, and the end of the stud.



I have increased the drill bit sizes by 0.5mm each round. Drilling was fast, it was just 1 minute with each drill bit. It felt so easy at this point, thought that the stud will be out in no time. Once the hole was with some 7mm drill bit, I have switched tools to use the "extractor" (with threads the wrong way around).

There was no way to get the stud out by these kind of extractors



... at the end I was using my whole body weight with these 2 feet long pumber tools



...but there was no way the stud would come out, and one does not want to have an extractor broken in the hole.

[to be continued in next post]
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Old 07-04-2010, 03:14 AM
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[continued from earlier post]

So time again for some new tools, used these with a drill, and have removed stud, virtually so that the remains of the stud have come out in small pieces.



Then used this tool to strengthen the threads, size was I think 10mm x 1.5... it is the same size, same threads as in the original stud. Used a lot of lubricant and turned the bit in a way: "a bit forward, then backwards, forwards, backwards, forwards..."



Once the threads were fine, I have bought new studs, with new brass studs and washers.

In the end, I have installed to the '76 car a more silent exhaust.


The exhaust had two exits, one on either side of the car, had a friend modify the exhaust to a single exit. Perhaps should have just cut the rear valance to have two exits... certainly would have been easier.

Reason why I've replaced the Zork, initially perhaps has been due to technical inspection: Zork-tube would not pass in Finland, it is too loud. Another reason I now must admit, I've become slightly tired of constant noise, and sometimes extra attention has been unwelcome, too. So for now she will have to live with a muffler, possibly Zork will come back another day

Thanks for exhaust nut-removal tips!
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Old 07-04-2010, 03:49 AM
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Nice work on removing the turbo stud!

BTW: Why didn't you just 'plug up' the passenger side outlet on the new muffler? It appears that the intake is the same diameter as the outlet on the driver side?

Maybe Brian [Rarely] would chime in on my poor suggestion...
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Old 07-04-2010, 05:09 AM
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Glad you got it out. Keep an eye on them, as I had several fall out over and had to replace over the years...
Old 07-04-2010, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooney265 View Post
Nice work on removing the turbo stud!

BTW: Why didn't you just 'plug up' the passenger side outlet on the new muffler? It appears that the intake is the same diameter as the outlet on the driver side?
Mooney, this is what we originally had in mind, to block off the passenger side outlet.

The exhaust we started to modify, is similar to this, "Monty" -exhaust:

FS: B&B exhaust for 930 Turbo

I felt awful starting to cut such a well built exhaust, and it was light-weight too. If one would do it again, I would perhaps cut the rear valance, but the milk has spilled already.

Well, we started cutting the passenger side outlet, in view of welding a plate to block it off. What we found inside, is a relatively small, 46mm diameter exit inside the larger 76 mm(?) exit that we see from the outside.

Everything okay so far, apart from me unhappy about cutting the nice exhaust. Then thought that perhaps it is a good an idea to check what is on the other side. So we cut the other, driver's side outlet too. What we found there, is what we expected, a smaller 46mm diameter hole. But what we did not expect to find, is a 46mm pipe coming from inside "the Monty". So, there is a small diameter pipe that goes right inside the muffler.

So it seems the "Monty" is more complicated from inside, than it appears outside. We reasoned a single 46mm outlet is way too small for a largish (K27-7200) turbo unit. At this point, we viewed inside the "Monty", and thought that it will make a right mess, if we will try to enlarge the driver's side "inner 46mm" outlet. So in the end, we have decided to bring the passenger outlet to the left hand side, rather than blocking it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by A930Rocket View Post
GKeep an eye on them, as I had several fall out over and had to replace over the years...
Already today one brass nut was on the way out by several millimetres. Have tightened all four, thanks A930Rocket, will now follow up the situation.

It has been a long story about a smallish issue, but I am quite pleased there are now 4 studs holding the exhaust. Also, the '76 car now sounds a typical 911, like a lawnmover and a vw beetle humming together, and I like it. Should go through technical inspection too..
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Old 07-04-2010, 02:18 PM
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Is there any fiberglass or other sound absorbtion material under a perforated steel inner liner around the inside of the monty muffler?

or is it just a nice looking baffled can?

Your information makes me like the B&B 930 single out muffler more than ever... It's the only 930 muffler I've seen yet that never necks down below 3" on the inside and it has a perforated inner steel liner with sound absorbtion material under it that removes some noise and creates no backpressure in the big oval can stainless steel muffler.

It also has several triangular shaped perforated steel baffles just inside of the 3" inlet and outlet pipes and you can wack those out of there with a hammer and section of pipe easily.
After that there is one 3" crossover pipe about 5" long from the upper and lower inside chambers down at the far end. You could cut the end of the muffler off, cut that 3" pipe out and weld the end back on to really free up the muffler and hear more turbo spool while the sound absorbtion packing around the entire inner perimeter still cuts some noise.
Old 07-04-2010, 03:27 PM
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not sure if there is any sound absorbtion material inside a Monty. All I could see was plain metal tubes / walls through the openings. Inside walls and tubes were quite slim material (as compared to a 928 exhaust that I have looked into before).
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Old 07-05-2010, 05:00 AM
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The Monty that came on my car was cracked around the outlet pipe when I got it. When I repaired it, I could peek inside and mine was 3" all the way through, but no sound absorbtion material, all baffles.

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Old 07-05-2010, 06:35 AM
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