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wcc wcc is offline
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I'm glad I could help out. I was messing with it today using it to clean the lower side of the STI. So far, I think I can honestly say this is the best toy, I mean tool, that I ever bought.

The only downside so far that I can see is that I'm not sure that the engine would fit between the rails. So if I want to take out the engine/trans I don't know if I could. Maybe if the headers were off and anything else that's extra was removed it would fit? What do you think?
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Old 09-30-2007, 07:33 PM
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I'll have to take a look Bill. The gap between the runner is pretty narrow. It will work great on the straight 6 in my Mustang, but I agree about the 930 motor.

Bill
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Old 10-01-2007, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcc View Post
That's sweet Bill! A couple nice cars too! Did you get the combo with the jacks? I did and had them converted from a hand pump to pneumatic. It makes jacking up the car just that much easier....
I will be ordering the newer version, the Pro Park 7 LL, when they are back in stock. How much was it to convert to pneumatic on the jack?

Blaine
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1988 Porsche 930 Factory Slantnose- B&B Headers, GHL dual exhaust, K27-7200, Tial WG, B&B Intercooler, RSR Coilovers, Poly Bronze bushings. Dynoed at 373 hp/389 tq
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Old 12-03-2007, 08:36 PM
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I can't remember off the top of my head, but I don't think it was too bad. I worked with Grant Smith over at Smith Equipment. Just give him a call and he'll get you squared away.
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Old 12-04-2007, 03:02 PM
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There is a newer model? Cool. I love mine. I cut up some spare plywood this weekend to lay where the drip trays go, to add stability. I have the plastic drip trays is came with, and then two layers of card board. My Mustang leaks all kinds of wierd fluid, and I didn't want any to get on the Porsche.

Also, kind of funny (or stupid) I didn't realize the two gray panels that came with the lift were used to cover up the cables until I saw the same lift on one of those car shows on DIY.

Bill
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1986 911 Cabriolet (sold)

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Old 12-04-2007, 03:04 PM
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That's funny cause I saw those panels too and wondered where they went at first. Then I figured it out but I still didn't put them on.
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Old 12-04-2007, 03:18 PM
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Yeah, I thought they were just there for a packing purpose. Oh well. You did well not putting them on, it was somewhat a PITA.
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1986 911 Cabriolet (sold)

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Old 12-04-2007, 03:20 PM
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I am getting a lift for Christmas, don't know whether to stick with the made in the US stuff i.e. Rotary or Bend Pak. I am a new car dealer and I have 27 bays in one building and 13+ in another, I really want this for storage only and while I may do light work on my car I don't need to have a lift but would like to for convenience. My primary concern is safety, I have a four year old at home and she is more important to me than anything as such, I would appreciate your input on build quality etc, is it worth saving the $1000 or so off the big name lifts. I can also get the dealer association discount on either a Bend Pak or the Rotary which puts them squarely at three grand with the optional jack stands, adjustable width runways, casters and the high drive under clearance model. My garage ceiling height is 13'6" so no worries there. Thanks for your input. LP
Old 12-04-2007, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHNELE View Post
I am getting a lift for Christmas, don't know whether to stick with the made in the US stuff i.e. Rotary or Bend Pak. I am a new car dealer and I have 27 bays in one building and 13+ in another, I really want this for storage only and while I may do light work on my car I don't need to have a lift but would like to for convenience. My primary concern is safety, I have a four year old at home and she is more important to me than anything as such, I would appreciate your input on build quality etc, is it worth saving the $1000 or so off the big name lifts. I can also get the dealer association discount on either a Bend Pak or the Rotary which puts them squarely at three grand with the optional jack stands, adjustable width runways, casters and the high drive under clearance model. My garage ceiling height is 13'6" so no worries there. Thanks for your input. LP
I can't speak for those companies you mentioned, but I can tell you I'm very happy with the lift I did get. Everything on this lift is heavy duty and the guys from Greg Smith Equipment have been very easy to work with. I too have a 4yo and a 2yo at home and I'm not worried about the safety of it at all. Maybe our kids should get together sometime and play while we talk cars. If you want any detailed pics of my lift just let me know and I'll take some.

FWIW, the lift, jacks (had them converted to pneumatic), trip trays and the caster set, delivered for just under 3k. But I didn't get a discount like you'd probably get.
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Old 12-05-2007, 01:27 PM
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Sounds like a plan Bill, I guess I would rather go with a BendPak or Rotary for the money.
Old 12-05-2007, 02:19 PM
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I looked at the Bend paks as well, and for what I needed, they were just overkill.

Like Bill above, I have a 5 yo and a 2 yo, and feel completely safe with this lift. My was under $1800 to my door. I didn't get the jack's, but did get the jack tray, casters, etc.

In the end it is your money, do what makes you feel the most comfortable. I did a bunch of research, and read a lot of good things on this lift. I also had good customer service with Greg Smith as well.
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1992 964 Turbo (sold) Holy crap are these expensive now!
1986 911 Cabriolet (sold)

I don't know why I do the hillbilly things I do.
Old 12-05-2007, 03:57 PM
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I have a 9ft garage ceiling, but I am meeting with the structural engineer on Thursday to make modifications. My idea is to convert the 5 trusses above one bay to scissor type creating a vaulted ceiling effect which based on the roof pitch should give me about 2 more feet (11 total). I plan to convert the remaining trusses on the other bay to attic style which would allow me to have a loft which would overlook the bay with the vaulted ceiling. Has anyone done similar?

My plan is to then install the Pro Park 7 LL with two sets of movable jacks (the combo package). For those that have these lifts, is it safe to leave around children? Specifically, if a child has access to the garage, how easy would it be for them to intentionally raise, lower the lift? Would it be practical to make some type of power lockout device requiring a key?

Thanks for any replies.

Kevin
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:16 PM
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Kevin,

In order to lower the lift, it must first be raised up off the stops, then a lever pulled that disengages the saftey locks, while at the same time, depressing another level that lowers the lift, quite slowly.

In order to raise the lift, you just push a button.

Since the proper method for storage is to have the lift sit on the saftey stops, without any tension on the cables, I don't see any reason why you couldn't just unplug it when it isn't in use. The hydralic pump only runs when raising or lowering the lift.

I have a 4 year and a 19 month, and feel very safe with them around it. I have the power cord from the pump going stright to the ceiling, then across the ceiling to an outlet. My oldest one (daughter) knows not to touch daddie's things, and my son is never in there alone (nor is my daugter for the most part).

With regards to the ceiling and trusses, unfortunately I can't help you there.

Bill
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2003 996TT
1992 964 Turbo (sold) Holy crap are these expensive now!
1986 911 Cabriolet (sold)

I don't know why I do the hillbilly things I do.
Old 01-15-2008, 04:23 PM
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Thanks Bill. I have four boys ages 13 down to 18 months. If they end up being anything like me, just telling them to not touch will not work!

Besides wanting a lift for working on the car and extra car storage, I am thinking storing the car up and out of reach of bicycles, skateboards, basketballs, etc will prolong the life of the new paint job I am about to get.

Kevin
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:28 PM
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Don't make the same mistake I did. I live in Seattle, WA and ordered my lift from Greg Smith in Indiana. They had excellent customer service and support, but my freight bill was $515 for the 2000lbs (Pro Park 7LL, Pro Jack 3500). After I ordered I found out that they were the East Coast dealer for the lift which is made by Direct Lift. They have dealers as close as Boise, Idaho that could have helped me. Savings in freight woiuld have only been about $150. The Direct Lift web address is-

http://www.directlift.com/

Hope this helps. By the way.......fricken love the lift.

Blaine

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Old 01-15-2008, 06:45 PM
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Great write up comgratulations. Just a quick question, what was the deciding factor for the 4 post vs. a two? I apploigize if the pics would make it obvious but my IT dept blocks them- so I will not see them until I get home..Mike
Old 01-16-2008, 06:01 AM
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I'm considering a lift too, but I'm likely to get a 2 post lift. A 4 post lift is more of a storage lift, while a 2 post is more of a service lift. But a 2 post works fine for storage too, while a 4 post has big limitations for service work.

The advantage of a 4 post lift is that it is easier to drive the car on and off -- and perhaps better for doing a wheel alignment. But it requires more length, because of the structure at each end and the ramps (which are heavy but removable), though it requires less width than a 2 post lift. And with a 4 post lift, it may be easier to open the car doors while on the lift.

But for service work, the 2 post is much better. The wheels are lifted from the floor, so you can easily do wheel/suspension/brake work. The entire underside is clear of obstruction for simple tasks like changing fluid, or more involved projects like removing the engine or transmission. If there is exhaust or driveline work (especially for front-engined cars), the whole space is clear. And the issue of opening doors while on the lift can usually be solved by getting an "asymmetrical" lift that has the posts located forward somewhat, such that the rear lifting arms are longer than the front ones, and the car doors are able to swing open farther.

With a 4 post lift, it can be difficult to even change the oil, especially in a 911 variant, because of the wheel trays and cross members, but most people find a way to do it. Additional jacks can be used to lift the car on the lift somewhat, but I'd prefer to lift it from the floor if I'm going to use a jack. But if your primary goal is storage, then the 4 post may be for you. The two post takes a little more setup to lift the car -- the arms have to be placed under the lift points each time you put the car on the lift, which requires kneeling down and aligning them. But once you do that, it's every bit as stable, and every bit as good for storage, plus you have the added benefit of being able to do real service procedures.

A 2 post lift must be anchored to the floor. Recommendations vary, but most that I've seen require 4 in. of reinforced concrete capable of withstanding 3000 psi. The four post lifts I've looked at may have similar bearing requirements, but to my knowledge, they don't need to be anchored (or at least some of them don't). Some have wheels that can be extended so you can move them around should you need to.

Both types of lift require the same ceiling height, though there are some 2 post "clear floor" lifts that require much more height -- about 12 feet. This is because two post lifts require some means of side-to-side equalization, either mechanical or hydraulic. Those that have a mechanical equalization cable can be purchased with the equalizing cable going along the floor (which creates a small obstruction on the floor that may interfere with rolling a jack or oil receptacle) or across the top, which is 12 feet in the air. If you've got the ceiling clearance, you should probably have the latter. If you don't, then you can get one with floor equalization routing, because the posts are much shorter. There's one more option for low ceilings: Mohawk, PKS, and AMPRO make lifts with a hydraulic equalization. That means that there's a hydraulic line that goes from tower to tower, but it doesn't need to be at a prescribed height. You can route this small line across your existing ceiling, plus it gives you the flexibility to move the posts to a narrower (or wider) stance because you're not constrained by the the mechanical link. The AMPRO lift has columns that are just under 100 in. --so technically you could use one if you have 8.3 foot ceilings. But of course, you wouldn't be able to lift the car full height, and I doubt you'd be able to park a car underneath it unless it's very low. With the "low" 2 post lifts, the minimum ceiling height is dicatated by the height of the car you're lifting (and how much clearance you want underneath it), and perhaps by the height of the car below it if you want to use it as a storage lift.

Last edited by Rob 930; 01-16-2008 at 10:01 AM..
Old 01-16-2008, 09:58 AM
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Good right up Rob. My main goal was storage. I needed to get my Mustang up off the floor, so I could park the 911 underneath it.

I have done a fair amount of work on the Mustang using the lift, and have not run into any clearance issues. I can see running into problems trying to drop a 911 engine, as the distance between the ramps would not be wide enough.

I do not have mine anchored to the floor, and having the ability to move it around was key to me.

Bill
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2003 996TT
1992 964 Turbo (sold) Holy crap are these expensive now!
1986 911 Cabriolet (sold)

I don't know why I do the hillbilly things I do.
Old 01-16-2008, 11:08 AM
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Great write up from all-

ROB I can see all your points and I was on the same wave length. Pulling motors, wheel alignment etc. I did not see that $ were the deciding factor so I had to ask. I have 9'8" clearence but may be considering adding a 4 car detached and did not wnat to invest in the attached. Besides we may be moving overseas... another story. You guys did a great job!!!

The down side is MY 930 leaks a drop or two once in awhile....... so storage, might be more expensive to fix the leak than add on.... Mike
Old 01-16-2008, 07:44 PM
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Rob thanks for the additional info on 2 post lifts. From a safety perspective for those of us with children around, do these types of lifts have mechanical stops? Can they be "locked out" to prevent accidental/intentional moving by young children? I do want to be able to drop my engine using the lift if I go with a 4 post, I will need to pick one that has enough width between ramps.
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Old 01-17-2008, 03:50 AM
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