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Turbo Drive Shaft Bolts

I have had a problem with drive shaft Bolts backing out at the transmission flange. The parts diagram for the 930 does not show a lock washer in use. The 911 uses lock washers. Anyone know if I should use the lock washers or a loctite product? I have been torqueing them as much as possible using a regular hex key socket with a standard handle.
Old 09-12-2007, 03:33 PM
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Blue loctite will suit just fine for those. Just be sure the threaded holes in the drive flanges are dry(no oil/grease/debris) for the thread locker to properly bite. Brakleen works great for that
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Old 09-12-2007, 03:57 PM
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You could use Schnorr washers, they are great IMO.

http://www.schnorr.com/safetywashers.html
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 09-13-2007, 03:00 AM
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Highly recommend you torque them to the factory spec. I have never had a problem of them loosening when torqued to spec and tightening bolts using a star tightening sequence. Also, inspect the threads of all the bolts, if damaged replace.
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Old 09-13-2007, 08:30 AM
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+1.

You can't do it by hand. You really need that torque wrench and go to 60 ft lbs I think it is. I've never used the schnor (sp?) wahers or loctite and have not had a problem with lots of track use.

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Originally Posted by WERK-I View Post
Highly recommend you torque them to the factory spec. I have never had a problem of them loosening when torqued to spec and tightening bolts using a star tightening sequence. Also, inspect the threads of all the bolts, if damaged replace.
Old 09-13-2007, 07:38 PM
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Use Nordlock washers and clean the threads with brake cleaner prior to installation.
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Thank you for your time,
Old 09-14-2007, 07:26 AM
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Clean the threads as suggested and use a TQ wrench!. I have never had to use loctite nor washers and never had one back out. Now I will tell you that on cars we build for purpose such as track only we actually drill the heads and safety wire them.
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Old 09-14-2007, 07:31 AM
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Thank you all for the suggestions.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I realize I probably did not have them torqued enough after my engine install. It was my first time pulling and installing on my own. If they start to loosen again I will go with the lockwashers or loctite.
Old 09-14-2007, 03:27 PM
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I should have added also that I have never had any come loose & I don't use any loctite, washers or wire. Just the correct Tq.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 09-14-2007, 05:28 PM
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