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Leaking Oil Line

A little help woudl be greatly appreciated!!!
Where does the rubber line, that attaches to the copper line in the pic terminate? It seems to go under the tin on the top of the motor but I know that can't be right. I had the IC and dizzy cap off to try to figure out where it goes and I can't find the end. It is cracked, leaking and causing a terrible mess. I would like to replace it. It seems like the copper tube running down goes to the turbo scavenge area, but I can't figure out where the top rubber tube connects on the other end. Do I have to pull the BOV again to see where it goes or do I have to pull the tin off the motor to replace this little gem (if so, I can deal with the mess for awhile longer )


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Old 09-22-2007, 12:43 PM
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Look @ the parts diagram on this site and you should be able to find where it goes.
Old 09-22-2007, 01:13 PM
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I tried that and I can't identify anything that looks remotely similar. Hopefully one of you guys is smarter than me!!!
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Old 09-22-2007, 01:22 PM
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That line is the oil supply line to your turbo. It should run all the way to the back of the engine (flywheel end) and actually connect into the fitting off the block that also has the idiot light switch for the oil pressure. This switch is back by the breather cover for the engine.....of course it is hidden by the intake manifold and CIS hardware.
Anyway, from your photos it looks like that hose is hose clamped to the brass section, this should be a nice flanged fitting so somewhere along the line this hose/pipe was modified (incorrectly). You should really replace it with a properly flanged line Item 11 to make sure it never leaks again. My opinion.
Old 09-22-2007, 07:54 PM
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It is #9 on the diagram.
It should NOT have a hose clamp on it. Someone has busted it, cut it off and put a rubber hose on it. The rubber hose has likely failed.
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'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
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Old 09-22-2007, 08:04 PM
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Brian, I thought the same thing but #9 is good up to the junction shown in the diagram.
It seems more like #11 that attaches to #9 but I can't find the other end of #11. I totally agree that there should not be a host clamp there, but until I can locate the other end of the line I am hesitant to order any parts or even try to pull it off. I removed the host clamp yesterday but the hose would not budge. It also felt like the hose had a hard line underneath it but that could just be that the hose is old and has lost its softness.
Thanks to everyone that has looked and to anyone that has any other ideas!!!
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Old 09-23-2007, 06:38 AM
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I'm sorry, you are right, it is #11. #9 is a black hard line that attaches directly to the turbo.
#11 heads straight back and hits a 45* angle around the fan "bulge" on it's way to the oil sending unit at the very back of the engine (the one that commonly leaks).
I'll see if I have a picture of it.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 09-23-2007, 06:47 AM
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Well I didn't have much in my archives that will help. I have a picture of where #11 starts and where it ends.

#11 starts at the turbo here:



#11 ends at the rear oil sensor here:

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'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 09-23-2007, 06:54 AM
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So, in your experience, can this be done with the engine in the car? I am guessing there is zero chance of that...
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Old 09-23-2007, 07:09 AM
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Yes it can. I do it all the time but you will have to really work for it. You may find it is easier for you to just pull the intake.
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Old 09-23-2007, 07:54 AM
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I'm sure it can be done with engine in car. I have never done it on a 930 . I have a 964 turbo and on it that line runs from turbo "UNDER" THE ENGINE SHEETMETAL, to back of engine as Briab said . I had an o-ring leaking on one of engine through bolts @ beveled washer and had to remove intercooler, intake,and engine sheetmetal to get to it. It is a pain in the A$! to get to but just a lot of unbolting. AL
Old 09-23-2007, 08:01 AM
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None of this is really "hard" it is just time consuming and takes forever to tear everything down.
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Old 09-23-2007, 08:04 AM
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Maybe I can jsut wrap it with some tape... yeah right!!!
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Old 09-23-2007, 04:20 PM
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You might be able to find the fittings to convert it to a braided stainless steel line and not have to take everything apart.
Old 09-23-2007, 06:23 PM
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Looks like just what I initially described, but a picture from Rarlyl8 as they say is worth a thousand words.
You may be able to partially drop the engine and still get to it. This is alot easier than a full engine drop.
Plus it may be smart to replace the sensor while your'e in there, as they usually leak after time.
Old 09-24-2007, 12:35 PM
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Replace that and the Thermo o-ring since the oil line runs over the edge of it and these DO leak!
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:09 PM
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That is No.11 & mine was leaking too. I removed the intake assy after lowering the engine on to a jack stand.

Had the line rebuilt with new hose and crimps locally, just like when it left the factory. Also did the chain tensioner lines too.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 09-25-2007, 11:20 AM
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I like my idea better.

Just cut the old one off, snake the new braided line in there and you are good to go. No engine drop, etc...
Old 09-25-2007, 05:28 PM
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I didn't think of doing that!

I am however not a lover of braided hose, I prefer the solid tubes.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 09-26-2007, 10:46 AM
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A good braided hose will last a LONG time. You could also leave it until you had to pull the engine and had better access to install a hardline.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanUK View Post
I didn't think of doing that!

I am however not a lover of braided hose, I prefer the solid tubes.
Old 09-26-2007, 03:47 PM
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