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Weight savings update!

My A/C never worked and I finally got it off. I have a friend who is a mechanic. So I am pumped because I put a Clewett aluminum pulley on the crank and a V belt and when it spins up, I swear that it feels super smooth like there is no more friction on the pulley from the ackward A/C set up. I also installed Wevo engine mounts. It just winds up faster now, I think.

So my 1976 930 weighs 2630 lbs with full oil and gas from the factory, and these are the weight savings I have done so far:

Spare tire removed: 35 pounds

Rear seat backs gone: 15 pounds

Door pockets removed: 6 pounds

floor mats and trunk mat: maybe 10 pounds, pretty heavy!

Tools, jack and everything else not attached to the car also gone.

2 pounds zork pipe replaces muffler: At least 20 pounds saved

B+B headers with heat: At least 10-15 pounds saved.

AC: Maybe 50 pounds, not quite as heavy as I expected. EDIT: Actual weight just over 70 pounds...didn't seem as heavy in individual pieces, I guess, but added up to 70 lbs.

Lighter steering wheel (MOMO)

Newer stereo weighs 2 pounds

C2 style recirculating valve instead of original 10 pound unit

I do have some added weight: Andial IC, rear stereo speakers, and front oil cooler.

I think my car is safely in the mid 2500 range by now, all things considered. I noticed that my car is a little bouncy now that I took off the AC, like my torsion bars are a little on the stiff side for the amount of weight I am carrying. This may make me stop losing weight a lot sooner than I expected, because I don't want ride quality to deteriorate.

My wife and I went out and gunned it in second gear, so I could show her how much smoother it seems to spool up without the A/C parasitic drag on the crank, and then I shifted into third, and at 75 miles per hour, my rear tires lit up so badly that my car headed to redline with the wheels just spinning. That was just crazy. So I probably need to lower my car again after the weight loss, and I think a corner balancing would help. Bigger tires on the wish list...

The engine spins so much freer now. The car picks up velocity effortlessly. It doesn't feel as dramatic on your butt because the engine is spinning more efficiently and pulling less mass, but the speedometer is moving really fast.

Last edited by DDDD; 10-05-2007 at 04:09 PM..
Old 10-01-2007, 02:00 PM
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damn, I'm envious. . .way to go!
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:11 PM
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WOW !! 400 hp to boot!

That is a good idea. I should ditch my AC since it doesn't work any more .... every little bit helps.
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82 Porsche 930 Euro, black, 31K miles.
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxx1 View Post
WOW !! 400 hp to boot!

That is a good idea. I should ditch my AC since it doesn't work any more .... every little bit helps.
Boy was it tough, on my car, anyway. But you probably won't have near the same problems. Somebody took an engine tin out of a Carrera and cut it up around my turbo pipes and stuck it in my turbo bay, which was a nightmare to get in and out. It just doesn't fit well. you also won't need to change the crank pulley, most likely. I had a weird set up, and the crank pulley was a nightmare to get to.

You should do that removal when you install an intercooler. And before you lower the car, because all weight added and subtracted needs a re-alignment.

I kept my under the dash A/C controls and my smuggler box fan, so I still get fresh air through the A/C vent. Feels exactly the same temperature as when I had A/C...
Old 10-01-2007, 04:50 PM
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I found that removing the spare tire up front threw off the balance (understeer) of the car. I put it back and corner balanced it. Since you removed so much everywhere, you might not notice.

I also put Recaro Sport seats in place of stock and saved another 35 pounds over stock.

I replaced the stock Fuchs with Fikse 17 wheels and Goodyear F1 tires. They are about 5 lbs more per corner, but much bigger/better tire selection without throwing the 1979 designed steering geometry out of whack.

Ever since I installed 100 lb rear helper springs, and set them to come into play (stop the full squat) under full accel, I can not get the tires to break loose in a straight line. If I set the springs to full contact (firm), I can break the tire loose at will.

I also have a fiberglass rear deck and front/rear bumpers (bumpers - yah, right).

My car is 2650 with 1/2 tank.
Old 10-01-2007, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonE View Post
I found that removing the spare tire up front threw off the balance (understeer) of the car. I put it back and corner balanced it. Since you removed so much everywhere, you might not notice.

I also put Recaro Sport seats in place of stock and saved another 35 pounds over stock.

I replaced the stock Fuchs with Fikse 17 wheels and Goodyear F1 tires. They are about 5 lbs more per corner, but much bigger/better tire selection without throwing the 1979 designed steering geometry out of whack.

Ever since I installed 100 lb rear helper springs, and set them to come into play (stop the full squat) under full accel, I can not get the tires to break loose in a straight line. If I set the springs to full contact (firm), I can break the tire loose at will.

I also have a fiberglass rear deck and front/rear bumpers (bumpers - yah, right).

My car is 2650 with 1/2 tank.
Interesting...What brand of helper springs did you use? How do you install them, is it hard? I never thought you could adjust the springs to only 'come on' during full throttle.

Did you do any reinforcements for the springs, or is it not needed with such low force springs (100 lbs.)?
Old 10-02-2007, 06:34 AM
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The rear shocks are just coil overs with 100 lb (helper) springs. The are a direct replacement. The way you adjust the springs is to place them just in contact with shock hat and lock them in with the spanner. This will give you about the right amount of squat to maximize traction. You can actually crank in enough adjustment to lift the rear end, but this is too stiff and you can break the tires loose easily. If the adjustment is too loose, the spring will rattle on the shock and not do anything to help. Its trial and error in small adjustments.

I did not need to reinforce anything on the car as they only come in to play under full accel. The torsion bars are still in place and take care of the suspension job.

I can take a pic if you need.
Old 10-02-2007, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDDD View Post
Boy was it tough, on my car, anyway. But you probably won't have near the same problems. Somebody took an engine tin out of a Carrera and cut it up around my turbo pipes and stuck it in my turbo bay, which was a nightmare to get in and out. It just doesn't fit well. you also won't need to change the crank pulley, most likely. I had a weird set up, and the crank pulley was a nightmare to get to.

You should do that removal when you install an intercooler. And before you lower the car, because all weight added and subtracted needs a re-alignment.

I kept my under the dash A/C controls and my smuggler box fan, so I still get fresh air through the A/C vent. Feels exactly the same temperature as when I had A/C...


Yeah, that is a good point. I should decide all the weight I am going to remove, then lower and align the car. In a way, I hate to remove the spare just in case of a flat, then again, I have flatbed towing.

I'd like to weigh that GHL muffer and compare to a Zork or a dual Rarly pipe. The bumpers are heavy too, but I'm not sold on replacing them with glass bumpers. The car is pretty nice and stock ... I don't want to hack it up too much.
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Old 10-03-2007, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxx1 View Post
Yeah, that is a good point. I should decide all the weight I am going to remove, then lower and align the car. In a way, I hate to remove the spare just in case of a flat, then again, I have flatbed towing.

I'd like to weigh that GHL muffer and compare to a Zork or a dual Rarly pipe. The bumpers are heavy too, but I'm not sold on replacing them with glass bumpers. The car is pretty nice and stock ... I don't want to hack it up too much.
Never do work twice if you can help it.

I have done everything on this car twice, and it is starting to piss me off.

Remember, a zork is loud. I don't think it would work where you live. I think your current muffler is fine. Rarly8 has a couple things that will weigh a few pounds less, but your big weight savings is the A/C and spare tire. That is a 100 pounds.

Just put the spare tire back in the car on long distance trips. Unless you get lots of flats around where you live, or just can't find a buddy to pick up your spare tire out of your garage if you get stuck. Anyway, that is what I do...
Old 10-03-2007, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDDD View Post
Never do work twice if you can help it.

I have done everything on this car twice, and it is starting to piss me off.

Remember, a zork is loud. I don't think it would work where you live. I think your current muffler is fine. Rarly8 has a couple things that will weigh a few pounds less, but your big weight savings is the A/C and spare tire. That is a 100 pounds.

Just put the spare tire back in the car on long distance trips. Unless you get lots of flats around where you live, or just can't find a buddy to pick up your spare tire out of your garage if you get stuck. Anyway, that is what I do...
I've heard that every 100 lbs = .1 sec in the quarter mile

I don't have many probs with flats and don't stray too far. I think for now instead of mufflers, I need to buy a better intercooler.... then maybe an exhaust later on.
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Old 10-04-2007, 04:15 AM
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If you plan to continue using the 1.0bar boost spring a larger intercooler moves to the top of your parts list. The intake charge needs to be as cool as possible to keep detonation at bay while running the extra boost.

I don't know what a GHL exhaust weighs but mine is 10 pounds. A zork weighs nothing, maybe 2-3 pounds. THe heaviest component is the thick flange that bolts to the turbo.
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Old 10-04-2007, 05:28 AM
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In case anyone is interested, my AC weighed over 70 pounds on the scale, so my estimate of 50 pounds was way off.

So I saved over a 100 pounds with nothing more than AC removal and spare tire removal...
Old 10-04-2007, 05:31 PM
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70 lbs seems a little high. I was surprised that my A/C only weighed 59 lbs including everything but what's in and behind the dash (it did include the evaporator though).

I'm at 2750. I still have the seats to change out though. Anyone know what a good rollbar weighs?

Another tip for those last couple pounds on a street car. Speakers with neodidium magnets. They weigh a fraction of ferro magnet speakers.
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Old 10-04-2007, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 125shifter View Post
70 lbs seems a little high. I was surprised that my A/C only weighed 59 lbs including everything but what's in and behind the dash (it did include the evaporator though).

I'm at 2750. I still have the seats to change out though. Anyone know what a good rollbar weighs?

Another tip for those last couple pounds on a street car. Speakers with neodidium magnets. They weigh a fraction of ferro magnet speakers.
I had a dual condenser kit, it was some aftermarket thing which didn't work.
Old 10-04-2007, 07:01 PM
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Weight reduction is a winter sport. I've been chipping away at my car for years and if I don't need it on the track, it's off...

- Plastic front and rear bumpers
- FRP front hood, plastic rear hood, Lexan quarter and rear windows
- Stripped interior, RS carpet kit, RS door panels, no console, 2 Sparco EVO seats and harnesses tied to a 55lbs roll bar
- Front trunk empty (not even a horn)
- Smugglers box with light weight battery
- No AC parts or lines anywhere
- Schnell headers w/out heat
- Rotary muffler - aka Zork
- Lightweight Mini Started (saves 8lbs)

I'm calling it 2500lbs with 1/2 tank.

March 07 corner balance was 2533lbs with 2/3 tank and my 35lbs B&B single in dual out muffler.
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Old 10-05-2007, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Fast82930 View Post
Weight reduction is a winter sport. I've been chipping away at my car for years and if I don't need it on the track, it's off...

- Plastic front and rear bumpers
- FRP front hood, plastic rear hood, Lexan quarter and rear windows
- Stripped interior, RS carpet kit, RS door panels, no console, 2 Sparco EVO seats and harnesses tied to a 55lbs roll bar
- Front trunk empty (not even a horn)
- Smugglers box with light weight battery
- No AC parts or lines anywhere
- Schnell headers w/out heat
- Rotary muffler - aka Zork
- Lightweight Mini Started (saves 8lbs)

I'm calling it 2500lbs with 1/2 tank.

March 07 corner balance was 2533lbs with 2/3 tank and my 35lbs B&B single in dual out muffler.
Have you had problems with ride quality? My car is currently as stiff as I want it, in fact I am thinking about backing off to a 22mm front torsion bar.

Does your car get bouncy as you take off more and more weight? I am at the borderline now where I don't want to go further with my Bilstein sport shocks.

What torsion bars and shocks are you running?
Old 10-05-2007, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxx1 View Post
I've heard that every 100 lbs = .1 sec in the quarter mile

I don't have many probs with flats and don't stray too far. I think for now instead of mufflers, I need to buy a better intercooler.... then maybe an exhaust later on.
For a light weight Porsche, every 66 pounds is about a tenth of a second according to my calculations.

Divide 100 pounds by the estimated weight of your car and you will get a percentage, which actually equals the equivalent extra power you will feel. It is around 3.5 to 4 percent.

Save a couple hundred pounds and you are looking at maybe 8% more power to weight ratio.
Old 10-05-2007, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDDD View Post
Have you had problems with ride quality? My car is currently as stiff as I want it, in fact I am thinking about backing off to a 22mm front torsion bar.

Does your car get bouncy as you take off more and more weight? I am at the borderline now where I don't want to go further with my Bilstein sport shocks.

What torsion bars and shocks are you running?

DDD, I rarely drive the car on the street but when I do, I can dial in the ride quality with my adjustable shocks.

I’m running 23 / 31 bars with slightly pre-load 150lbs rear helpers and JRZ double adjustable shocks. On the street I just take out 3-4 clicks of bump. My rebound settings are pretty stiff so there’s really no bounce.

You could re-valve your shocks before going to softer front bars. The bounce you feel is from the Sports not being stiff enough on rebound now that your nose is lighter.
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Old 10-06-2007, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Fast82930 View Post
DDD, I rarely drive the car on the street but when I do, I can dial in the ride quality with my adjustable shocks.

I’m running 23 / 31 bars with slightly pre-load 150lbs rear helpers and JRZ double adjustable shocks. On the street I just take out 3-4 clicks of bump. My rebound settings are pretty stiff so there’s really no bounce.

You could re-valve your shocks before going to softer front bars. The bounce you feel is from the Sports not being stiff enough on rebound now that your nose is lighter.
Why would shocks seem less stiff when there is less weight? I would have thought that the effective shock rate would seem stiffer as the car got lighter.

Are you saying that the shocks need to be stiffer because the car will tend to bounce more over bumps now that it is lighter?
Old 10-07-2007, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDDD View Post
Why would shocks seem less stiff when there is less weight? I would have thought that the effective shock rate would seem stiffer as the car got lighter.

Are you saying that the shocks need to be stiffer because the car will tend to bounce more over bumps now that it is lighter?
From what you’ve described, your car probably feels stiffer during compression but rebounds too quickly creating the feeling of bounce.

I was told to think of shocks as “weight transfer timers”. Slow the rate the front spring is allowed to unwind with stiffer rebound valving and the bounce feeling will be less.
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:28 AM
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