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Best Way To Prime A New Turbo?

I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a new turbo, just trying to decide which one to go with.

Once I have it installed how do I prime it before I start the engine? Pull the coil wire?
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Old 10-01-2007, 02:38 PM
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prime the turbo by squirting motor oil in the feed inlet.
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Old 10-01-2007, 03:07 PM
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OFF THE BOOST PIPE NOW...
 
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Pull the coil wire and crank until you have pressure.
Old 10-01-2007, 04:55 PM
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Both above are good to do. If you want a sure fire way of knowing oil is at the turbo, pull the drain line off the bottom while cranking. When oil pours out of the CHRA, you're set and just bolt the return back up. Use a catch pan as oil pours out like mad, it's doesn't justdrip
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Old 10-01-2007, 06:43 PM
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I pulled the fuel pump relays, ran the turbo oil drain into a small container, cranked until I saw a "steady" stream of oil, then closed it up, cranked a little more, replaced the relays and drove off boost for 100 miles.
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Old 10-01-2007, 06:44 PM
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It's better to pull the fuel relays as you do not want fuel diluting the oil in the cylinders.

Build boost up to .5bar a few times after the miles.

I understood that 50miles with no boost was enough?
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 10-02-2007, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanUK View Post
It's better to pull the fuel relays as you do not want fuel diluting the oil in the cylinders.

Build boost up to .5bar a few times after the miles.

I understood that 50miles with no boost was enough?

Good note on the fuel relays to avoid cylinder wash...


And this is just to simply break in the thrust bearing. The cartridge bearings are fully floating(bearing floats on oil in CHRA, turbine shaft floats on oil in bearings) so there's very very little contact to actually break in aside from the thrust. the piston ring does break in in a sense, but again it happens very quickly as it floats and is rotating in a bore rather than sliding up and down like in a motor. If any "breaking in" is happening it does when you shut the motor down and the pressure drops inside the CHRA while the turbine is still spinning(more metal to metal contact). The turbo will literally break itself in at idle in a few minutes. It doesn't take much as the contact surface on the thrust and thrust washer are minimal in comparison to an engine. Full BB CHRA's need no break in time, just oil and spin them up.

One rule Garrett always advises us is that on any new turbocharger is you should let it come up to full operating temperature before hammering on it, on it's first run at the very least, allowing the parts to expand to their designed clearances. This is to avoid galling on the thrust surface.

I see alot of weird stuff rebuilding turbos over the years. One of the best was a spanking new GT409(non porsche) that the installer forgot to remove the feed hole plug from the factory before attaching the line. Turbine was friction welded into the CHRA! $1500 right out the window
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Old 10-03-2007, 07:45 AM
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The running in is for the seals, not just the bearings.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 10-03-2007, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanUK View Post
The running in is for the seals, not just the bearings.

Only for the old carbon (positive seal that actually touches shaft) seals used for older draw through carburated setups where gasoline actually contacts the seal surface. Positive seal need breaking or they can deteriorate at the leading edge and/or crack due to excessive thrust loads before they reach their optimal broken in clearances.

New style dynamic seals are incorporated as a piston ring into the thrust washer(the part of the thrust bearing that floats on the turbine shaft AKA thrust ring) They break in very quickly.

Carbon Seal


Dynamic Seal


You will not find a carbon seal on a performance turbo these days unless it's been specifically built with it. Rajay and IHI are some companies that still use them to a degree Dynamic is a far more efficient seal, and durable for that matter.
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Old 10-03-2007, 05:59 PM
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This is what I was told by the maker of the K27S, K27HF, K27HFS & K27HF2 etc etc.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 10-04-2007, 08:49 AM
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Hey, everyone is entitled to their own opinions and beliefs. I'm just stating mine from my fifteen years experience in rebuilding and modifying turbochargers myself here. Not saying there's anything wrong with a fifty or whatever mile break in. I'm just saying it's not absolutely necessary. I've torn down many turbos that have been hammered since minute one and the seals break in just fine. Biggest killer of seals is too much oil pressure and/or excessively worn bearings/thrust.
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Old 10-04-2007, 11:07 AM
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I wanted to ask something, the wheels barely spin at idle right? why do you need to prime?

I'm totally guilty of hooking it up and flying down the street.
Ignorance is bliss right?
Old 10-04-2007, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrinkley View Post
I wanted to ask something, the wheels barely spin at idle right? why do you need to prime?
Actually no, pending the mass and bearing setup of the rotating assembly(and of course engine volume) turbochargers at idle spin in excess of 10-20K rpms, some spinning well into the 100-120K rpm range near the surge line of the compressors' flow rate(WOT). Thus the necessity to prime before that initial start.

I built a simple setup on my car that doesn't allow the ignition to fire(while cranking to start) until the oil pressure comes up to 8psi. As soon as oil pressure rises, a relay closes and turns on the DIS(non Porsche) to fire the plugs. Aside from a clog in the feed line this guarantees the turbos have oil pressure before the motor fires up.
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Last edited by BoxxerSix; 10-04-2007 at 03:03 PM..
Old 10-04-2007, 02:56 PM
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Adam, your posts are appreciated. Nice pics you posted of the seals too, very informative.

I have run the car without a muffler on the turbo as I wanted to know what a Zork would sound like . The turbo spins pretty fast at idle!
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg

Last edited by NathanUK; 10-06-2007 at 12:57 AM..
Old 10-06-2007, 12:55 AM
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I have no I idea why I thought that, I've looked at mine at idle to, I remember the breeze now. It's been a while.
It took so long to start that day, I'm sure I'm good. It's only been a year and I can't remember half the **** I did.
Old 10-06-2007, 04:24 AM
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Aircraft Manufacturing Experience / Aircraft Mechanic / Aerospace Engineer checking in a throwing down my two cents here!

I worked on a flightline for a major light aircraft manufactuer for 8 years and we never broke-in turbochargers. The engines were filled with oil and started. The turbos had a squirt of oil in them during engine assemble in the engine shop before the engines were hung, but no special considerations were givin to them once they were installed. The new engines probably had some assembly lube in them before they left the engine manufacturer, but we added just the oil that would serve the engine until the first oil change at 100 hours. Filters catch what will damage the engine and the turbos can survive engine start fellows.
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Last edited by porschedude996t; 10-25-2007 at 04:48 AM..
Old 10-06-2007, 05:23 AM
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