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If your turbo blades were as you stated (Chew Up), I would want to know why? Something had to cause this. Something had to go through it. I would do a leak down on engine before I started It again just to eliminate possiable of causing more damage.
Old 10-05-2007, 03:37 AM
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I can pretty much guarantee that you are not getting oil out of the turbo, into the catch can and pumped back into the sump correctly. I would disconnect the return line after the pump and before the point of return into the oil system and see if any oil is being pumped out.
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Old 10-05-2007, 03:41 AM
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Just a question but would your car happen to be black/black with sport seats from NYC area?
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Old 10-05-2007, 08:42 AM
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If he removes the scavenger pump's output at the oil tank (catch the output in a can or something) and run the car BRIEFLY to see if the oil is returning to the tank, you will need to cap off the hole in the oil tank or you will loose all your oil. This sounds like a good suggestion to see if the turbo oil pump is working.
Is it possible that the pump may be working slightly, but not keeping up with the flow once the car is run hard and lots of oil gets pumped thru the turbo. I am wondering how full that turbo oil catch can gets under running conditions.
I noticed it is not vented to atmosphere like the stock OEM catch tank is......does this cause concern?
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Old 10-05-2007, 12:48 PM
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...which begs me to reiterate that he needs to neutral-rev the motor to build oil pressure w/o boost and determine whether the cause is oil pressure and/or flow, OR boost pressure (case vent).
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Old 10-05-2007, 01:02 PM
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What is the thickest oil I can use? It was changed at rebuild and it is burning up fast.

I'm have removed and am in the process of cleaning out the turbo oil return line, I'm wondering if a hunk from the old turbo fell in. But no one has explained to me what the cannister is for that is en route to the tank, if I should replace it or where I would get it (see pic above, bottom of top pic).

Thanks!
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Old 10-05-2007, 05:21 PM
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There are some solid suggestions in the above posts, but I'll add that it is conventional to change the oil shortly after a rebuild. The idea is to remove any desbris which may have been left behind in the various engine parts or oil lines. 500 -1000 miles is about normal.

You should be running a good quality xx-50 weight oil if you track the car (you quoted DEs). Synthetics are good as they don't burn inside the turbo. xx-40 weight will work too, but I don't think many turbo owners would support a lighter weight.

If the oil is very thin, there is a potential that the oil flow rate through the turbo exceeds the scavenge pumps ability. The scavenge pump is a positive displacement pump and runs proportionate to engine speed.

The can under your turbo is an accumulator which allows the turbo to gravity drain. The oil is removed from the can by your scavenge pump. Your accumulator is not stock, but appears conventional for all the aftermarker ones used to fit in conjuction with performance heat exchangers. They don't fail.
Old 10-05-2007, 07:18 PM
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Thanks for all the great advice! Here's what's happening:

1. I removed the oil return line, blew it out and confirmed that oil will flow through it. I reconnected the line to the turbo and ran the car at idle and no oil came through the line, though some did accumulate in the can. It occurs to me that disconnecting the line and running the negine isn't really a good test since the scavenge pump is then disconnected.

2. I discovered that I had topped up the engine previously with 5W-20 instead of 20W-50 (I must be lysdexic!)! At this point I was 4 quarts down and so I put in 4 quarts of 20W-50. (I know, I should change it all, but I really want to get the smoking sorted out and I only had 4 quarts handy) I estimate I must have at least 10-40 in there now though.

I took the car for a spin and it drove beautifully and smoke-free, even with the turbo at full force, until the engine warmed up. Then we got the smoke and glugging when the turbo kicked in, but not as bad as it had been before (it seemed).

I neutral-revved the engine, and there was not a huge billowing of smoke, but I didn't know how high to go, I just put it at 4K for a few seconds.

So maybe I still have some thin oil in there? Is there any other explanation?

PS Cobalt, the car is white, not the black Bad Boys car.

I haven't taken the car for an extended run to see what full operating temp will do, I'm still nervous.

Any other thoughts are appreciated!
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Old 10-06-2007, 10:04 AM
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Rick:
Are you sure it's oil smoke?
Did you pull any spark plugs to see if they're oil fouled?
Give us an idea of how many miles you have driven the car under these smoking conditions.
Can you smell any fuel in your oil?
Does it only smoke under boost, or just when warmed up, or a combination of both?

Pat
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Old 10-06-2007, 11:58 AM
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Definitely oil smoke, only under boost WHEN WARMED UP, no fuel smell, very limited driving like this (when cars behind me are skidding off the road due to the smoke I try to stay off the main roads!)
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Old 10-06-2007, 12:12 PM
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I had virtually the same problem with my car and it turned out to be a scavenge issue I checked elsewhere on this site and was advised to drain the turbo into the drain plate on the bottom of the engine ,end of problem.
Old 10-09-2007, 10:53 PM
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Back to basics......

1.)When the engine is fully warmed up, what is the oil level on the dipstick. (lowest hash mark is preferred on the turbos)
2.) You mentioned the engine was rebuilt after a theft. Have you seen the rebuild sheet so that this can be verified?
3.) One of the most overlooked pieces during a rebuild is a little bitty check valve ball bearing. Most forget where it came from during assembly and leave it out. The check valve prevents (reduces) the possibility of excessive oil going down into the turbocharger. It is located on the topside of the engine...the other end of the the turbo charger oil feed line.
4.) You can not assume that the source of oil leak is coming from the turbocharger seals. Look further upstream on the air inlet side. Take the air cleaner housing off the the air metering plate. If there is oil residue there, you know it's coming from the breather hose that comes of the oil tank and goes to the air cleaner housing. Oil droplets hitting the turbine blades turning nearly 100,000RPM could explain the pitted blades.

Good luck to you.
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Old 10-10-2007, 06:29 AM
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Is there some sort of restrictor onto the oil feed line on these cars to prevent excessive oil pressure getting to the turbo?

I don't know the first thing about these 911's, but I know plenty about turbochargers..
It sounds to me like yours is getting excessive oil pressure. If there's oil getting into the intercooler, than no doubt, the problem is that oil is leaking past the seal on that side.

The only common ways for this to happen are worn seals (and you said it's rebuilt), inability for oil to return to the motor (which has been discussed), and excessive oil pressure reaching the turbo.

This would possibly only cause an issue while warm, and with the thin oil, because when it's cold everything in there perhaps seals better, but once warmed up the gap expands enough to dump oil through, especially with the turbo spinning full tilt at 50,000+ RPM's.

If there's some sort of anti-drainback valve or a pressure reducer missing, it could cause exactly this problem. It may have been like this since the engine was rebuilt, but not reared it's head until the thin oil got to it.
A temporary fix may be to simply change the oil back to what worked before.

A more long term fix, may possibly be finding the pressure restrictor or anti drainback valve, and replacing it.
Old 10-12-2007, 07:01 PM
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There is a ball bearing with a spring below it. The oil to the turbo comes from where the oil pressure switch is located on the top of the rear of the engine slightly to the right. A banjo line is used to feed the turbo & the hollow bolt holds down the ball with the spring below the ball. The hollow bolt (which has the switch screwed into it) has a groove cut into it for the ball to rest againt.

Possibly the ball is missing.
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Last edited by NathanUK; 10-13-2007 at 06:15 AM.. Reason: Got confused with the 915 oil pump.
Old 10-13-2007, 03:02 AM
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Here is a pic from the PET. There is no spring, just a 9mm ball bearing(object 49).

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Old 10-13-2007, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WERK-I View Post
Here is a pic from the PET. There is no spring, just a 9mm ball bearing(object 49).

Hmmm. That doesn't look like the PET diagram for 94 that I have. Is that for a 930?
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Old 10-13-2007, 05:33 AM
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Ooops, sorry 'bout that. Forgot it was a 3.6 turbo. Here you go. Same principle, different part numbers.

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Old 10-13-2007, 06:08 AM
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