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Black968's Avatar
 
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930 Suspension questions

My 86 930 with 80 K was lowered and corner balanced by the previous owner. The car rides fine. However, would like to make it better. From researching on this board I think I have two problems. With the poor road conditions in our area, the front end is bouncing around. I am assuming a Bump Steer kit is in order. Can anyone recommend a kit . Is it an easy install?

Item #2 is the rear end. The rebound in the rear seems to be acting slow. My shocks are the green Bilstein HD's (?). Do I need new shocks or are my torsion bars getting tired? Comments please.

Cheers
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Old 10-08-2007, 03:59 PM
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Do the steering arms look level?
If not, which end is highest, near the rack or near the wheels?
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 10-09-2007, 01:49 PM
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The cheap washer type bumpsteer kit may be enough and it's reasonably easy to install, although getting the first bolt started can be a b!tch. The Elephant Racing bumpsteer kit is really nice, but maybe overkill.

I doubt your torsion bars are tired. A set of yellow sports would help or maybe Bilstein can revalve what you have.
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Old 10-09-2007, 06:33 PM
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I would second having Bilstein revalve your shocks.....they will need to know info on your torsion bar sizes and sway bars, but will custom valve them to those specs.
Bumpsteer is only an issue if you have lowered the car, and the cheap way is the washer kit.
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1979 930 Turbo....3.4L, 7.5to1 comp, SC cams, B&B intercooler, Snow Perf water/meth injection, Rarlyl8 headers, Garret GTX turbo, 36mm ported intakes, Innovate Auxbox/LM-1, custom Manually Adjustable wastegate housing (0.8-1.1bar),--running 0.7bar max
---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting"
Old 10-10-2007, 01:35 PM
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Suspension



Above is a picture of my car. I had the front wheels off the car last night. The tie rods appear to be slightly higher at the steering rack. While looking at the rear tonight, I see now that the shocks are leaking slightly. Should I re-valve what I have or just buy a new set of greens. I think a set of yellows might be too stiff from what I have read. This is strictly a street car.

Cheers
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Old 10-10-2007, 03:17 PM
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Are you saying you checked your tie rods with the wheels off?
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 10-11-2007, 08:43 AM
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you need to check the tie rod angle with the car sitting on the ground (& wheels on). The idea is to see if the steering "arm" is parallel to the ground.
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Old 10-11-2007, 12:09 PM
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Was working on my brakes and looked at the tie rods while in there. Didn't even think about the car being up in the air. I'm with stupid. Will look again tonight.

Cheers
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Old 10-11-2007, 03:23 PM
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Bear in mind that once you install the bump steer kit, this will effect the toe settings again on your alignment. You should have it realigned once after this to make sure that you do not have too much toe in after the arms are levelled.
This is pretty easy to check yourself and adjust, but if youre not sure have a shop do it.
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1979 930 Turbo....3.4L, 7.5to1 comp, SC cams, B&B intercooler, Snow Perf water/meth injection, Rarlyl8 headers, Garret GTX turbo, 36mm ported intakes, Innovate Auxbox/LM-1, custom Manually Adjustable wastegate housing (0.8-1.1bar),--running 0.7bar max
---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting"
Old 10-12-2007, 02:41 PM
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I thought that is what you had done. Get back to us with how they look when the car has settled down after having it in the air.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 10-13-2007, 02:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black968 View Post


Above is a picture of my car. I had the front wheels off the car last night. The tie rods appear to be slightly higher at the steering rack. While looking at the rear tonight, I see now that the shocks are leaking slightly. Should I re-valve what I have or just buy a new set of greens. I think a set of yellows might be too stiff from what I have read. This is strictly a street car.

Cheers
I have a knowledgable guy, Steve at Rennsportsystems.com, telling me to consider going back to Bilstein HDs for better valving and ride quality for the street.

A couple people have told me that the valving on the sport shocks is just not that good for ride quality.
Old 10-13-2007, 06:15 AM
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Which ones are stiffer DDDD?
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 10-13-2007, 10:07 AM
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Which ones are stiffer DDDD?
I have Bilstein sports now, which are for street/track, but I have heard a couple informed people say that they just are not the best valving, just not a comfort shock at all, mainly a performance shock.

The Bilstein HD is a street shock with better valving to soak up bumps, not as stiff. But better for the real world.

If I take off my sports and step back to heavy duty, I am supposedly taking a step back in performance if you believe Bilstein's hype, but in reality I would be getting a set up that works better on the street and is more comfortable.
Old 10-14-2007, 07:02 AM
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I installed the Bilstein sports in both the front and rear and it made a huge positive difference from the worn out stuff that was in there. I stayed with the stock T-Bars and the ride quality it just fine. I would highly recommend the sports. I used HDs on other cars worried about ride quality and they are still stiff making the ride harsher anyway. The rears only take about 30 minutes to change and are not a big deal at all. Our cars weigh close to (if not more than) 3000 pounds. T-Bars will make a big difference, HD vs. Sport shocks, especially in the rear, really will not.
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Old 10-14-2007, 10:30 AM
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