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Doug Siegel
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bloomington, IN
Posts: 314
torsion reindex....schools of thought?

I've noticed that several 930's have been lowered dramatically, while others very little.

What are the schools of thought here? What are the costs and parts involved?

I'd like to lower the car yet not screw up the street ride. Any suggestions?


Thanks.
Old 10-31-2007, 11:34 AM
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wcc wcc is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,334
That's exactly what I did. I re-indexed the torsion bars to get the Euro ride height I was looking for. I did it in such a way that I didn't have to remove my shark fin. My shocks and bushings were still good so I didn't have to replace them. I added a bump steer kit even though I was told it didn't need it. The only real cost I had was the alignment and corner balance. Let me add that for a street driven car it handles great and the ride is perfect IMO. Everyone I've given a ride in it says not to change a thing.

It's really what you are after. Are your shocks good? Are your bushings good? They might have sagged and need replacing. Can't really tell until you get into it.

Good Luck!
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Old 10-31-2007, 02:24 PM
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Doug Siegel
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Bloomington, IN
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Thanks Bill. I don't know the condition of the shocks and bushings, but will soon find out. Thanks for your help.

Best,
Doug

88 930
07 tacoma
00 BMW k1200rs
Old 11-01-2007, 11:33 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 760
I had my car lowered to Euro specs for about $250 which included alignment. The great thing about these cars is it does not require any additional parts to lower them. no new springs like most cars.
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John A.
1979 Porsche 930: 3.4L, SC cams, Twin plug, Leask WUR, Custom SSI turbo exhaust, Tial WG, K27HFS, and we can't forget the Zork (short lived depending on my homeowners assoc.)
05 Boxster S: For the Track.
06 Dodge Ram 2500 Power Wagon: Tow Vehicle
Old 11-01-2007, 01:19 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
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In the front just turn a bolt to lower it.
In the back to make small adjustments by reindexing, move the inner spline one tooth and the outer spline one tooth back the other way.. because there are 40 inner splines and 44 outer splines on the torsion bar.

A magnetic angle finder (about $5 at harbor freight tools) stuck to the top edge of the spring plate makes it easier to match up each side while everything is unbolted...

It's easy, just time consuming once you've done it.

Corner balancing takes expensive scales under each wheel.
You can alighn it yourself with conduit rod, string, and a tape measure.
Old 11-02-2007, 08:58 AM
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Forced Induction Junkie
 
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 3,291
Garage
This was posted in previous posts on rear spring plate adjustment procedures by John Walker and Wil Ferch. You might find this handy.

http://www.vintagebus.com/cgi-bin/spring.cgi
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Dave
'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 11-03-2007, 07:18 AM
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