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Uh, oh, now I'm F@cked.

Noticed lots of vibration from drivetrain lately went to check the transmission mounts, and one side was sagging. put a jack under trans to take the pressure off the mounts, when I tried to loosen the bolt it sheared off. now I have part of the bolt stuck in the trans. Any ideas on how to remove the rest of the bolt that is stuck in there? Only thing I can think of is to drill it out of there. Crap!

Eric
87 930
Old 12-29-2007, 03:23 PM
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Support the trans and remove the crossmember. If there is anything left of the bolt, use vice grips. If not, use an easy out. You may want to spray it with WD-40, PB Blaster or something first to help it come out.
Old 12-30-2007, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A930Rocket View Post
Support the trans and remove the crossmember. If there is anything left of the bolt, use vice grips. If not, use an easy out. You may want to spray it with WD-40, PB Blaster or something first to help it come out.
+1....take some pics to show us the situation, I am a visual guy and that always helps me (to help you..LOL)!

Yasin
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Old 12-30-2007, 09:19 AM
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OK, maybe not as f@cked as I thought. The sheared off bolt has just enough of a lip to get some vise grips around, just can't get enough leverage to back it out. The bolt is the transmission carrier bolt that goes in the rubber mount and attaches to the body of the car. Will try to get a pic of it. Lovely, self-induced transmission mount failure
Eric
87 930
Old 12-30-2007, 09:34 AM
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perhaps you could weld a large nut onto the exposed bolt and the heat would possibly help loosen the bolt as it cools! whatever keep in the center of the bolt if you have to drill it out...messing up the carrier bolt housing mount could be difficult to repair.
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:17 AM
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Remember that ideally you want the hole hot and the bolt cold.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
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Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

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Old 12-30-2007, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanUK View Post
you want the hole hot ...
this almost sounds like we are not talking about cars...



I would try heating it first and try your luck with the vise grips. If that fails, then take a die grinder and flaten the rest of the stub (to get a flat drilling area) and then carefully drill it out. Remember to start with a little drill bit and work your way up, Ive found it easier to center a small drill bit.
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Old 12-30-2007, 04:12 PM
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Before any extremes, visit Sears and buy a set of their Craftsman Stud Extractors and give it a try!
You know, the ones that Bob Villa blushes over on TV!
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Old 12-30-2007, 04:20 PM
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Wow, I am definitely hosed here. I drilled out the bolt carefully, it is almost completely bored out. the threads are slightly showing. I was able to clean the material out of the first three or four circles, but can't get any more of the bolt out of the thread, and I can't drill it out any more or I will damage the threads.
Anyone have any ideas? I'm guessing a helicoil or similar will not be suitable for this carrier bolt.

Eric
Old 12-31-2007, 01:39 PM
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freon will get it cold, old trick to get out valve guides on heads. My save my azz tool is a air hammer,if you have a hammer bit you may be able to hammer it up to vibrate the bolt to loosen. awesome tools these airhammer thingys.
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Old 12-31-2007, 02:37 PM
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I'm guessing your down to drilling the rest of it out and using a Timesert (better than a Helicoil). I do have to say that I had a stripped trans bolt as well and used a Helicoil to fix it years ago. I also use a little blue Loctite on the bolt to help keep it in there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by e170drvr View Post
Wow, I am definitely hosed here. I drilled out the bolt carefully, it is almost completely bored out. the threads are slightly showing. I was able to clean the material out of the first three or four circles, but can't get any more of the bolt out of the thread, and I can't drill it out any more or I will damage the threads.
Anyone have any ideas? I'm guessing a helicoil or similar will not be suitable for this carrier bolt.

Eric
Old 12-31-2007, 05:52 PM
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So, did you only drill out like half of the bolt? There are still 4 or 5 threads worth of bolt in the hole? Is it an 8 mm bolt?

I was a machinist in the USAF, and I spent five years taking out stuff you describe. If you have a picture, I'll give my best guess on how to save it.
Pat
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Old 12-31-2007, 06:00 PM
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It is a 12mm bolt and it is sunk about 13mm. I can tell because about 2inches behind it is an identical hole not being used. (wish I could) Guess when they made the body, they hadn't decided if it was to be a turbo, or a turbo-look. I'm guessing the other hole is for the g50 trans carrier. It could be that it isn't drilled far enough in. this metal should be just cracking away right?
Eric
Old 12-31-2007, 08:15 PM
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Can you get it out with a magnet?
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 01-01-2008, 02:15 AM
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Eric:
OK, try real hard to drill a pilot hole through the center of the bolt; small diameter, maybe 1/8". Get it all the way through, you will know when you have gone through. Then, step up the size to maybe 5/16 or so. The object is to leave about 1.5-2mm of meat on the circumference of the hole. Also, this leaves a bit of room for error, in case you don't get the hole perfectly centered. The important thing is to leave a continuous annular cylinder, once it is non continuous, then the easy out won't wwork; just digs into the parent metal. Then, get a square body easy out, or a good spiral easy out...don't use the cheap ones, or you will really be f'ed.

After this, you should either be able to retap the hole, or use a Heli-coil. Heli-coil will be more than sufficient for this purpose, they are extremely strong. You can get Heli-coils at a place like McMaster-Carr. In reality, you can get full grip on four good threads, ie, if you can turn a bolt in four full turns, that's great. I prefer longer Heli-Coils.

This is all pretty easy in theory. The execution doesn't always follow suit. Good luck.
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Old 01-01-2008, 05:38 AM
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The other problem with this bolt is that it has a pointed tip, and is completely seated in the hole. the bolt is almost completely bored out can almost see the threads. Nice to know about the helicoil though I have only used them on spark plug holes. Glad they are strong enough to hold the transmission mount if I need to use one.
Eric
87 930
Old 01-01-2008, 10:13 AM
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I do have an air hammer, maybe I will try giving it a whack with that maybe loosen it up a bit.
Eric
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Old 01-01-2008, 10:15 AM
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Ok, this thing is done. The entire bolt is bored out and nothing remains except the material in the threads. I guess I should be looking into helicoils or timeserts. Anyone have a recommendation on which would be better? Rocket, you mentioned that you put the helicoil in, have you had any problems since? Also, it is a pretty tight space under there. Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I appreciate the help.

Eric
87 930
Old 01-01-2008, 11:59 AM
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Timeserts are much better, more permanent.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 01-01-2008, 03:02 PM
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Since you said you have a few 3-4 clean threads exposed, run a tap into the hole. If you can get one from an industrial supplier called a bottoming tap (very common) it will have little taper and should align on the exposed threads. Upon failure... helicoil. The tap is a $15 item.
Old 01-01-2008, 03:19 PM
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