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Installing B6 IC with removal of BOV

I am installing a Blown6 Intercooler which will also be replacing my Blow Off Valve (BOV).

I need to know what to keep and what to eliminate.

Has anyone installed one of these before and has also removed their BOV as well? This is my biggest questions as i have some hoses that I'm not sure where they go.

Thanks for your help in advance.

Bryan
Old 01-13-2008, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x98boardwell View Post
I am installing a Blown6 Intercooler which will also be replacing my Blow Off Valve (BOV).

I need to know what to keep and what to eliminate.

Has anyone installed one of these before and has also removed their BOV as well? This is my biggest questions as i have some hoses that I'm not sure where they go.

Thanks for your help in advance.

Bryan
Hi Bryan,

I hope you received the emmissions diagrams from the workshop manual that I sent. As promised, here are a couple of pics of my setup. The vac line on the top of the BOV connects to the "T" on the throttle body. As for the large "saucer" looking thing (the AAV) that you asked about, I think you could probabably elliminate this little goody. As I mentioned to you before, I'm not sure how much "help" I can be due to the fact that all of my smog ***** was happily removed.



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Last edited by sand_man; 01-13-2008 at 11:54 AM..
Old 01-13-2008, 11:46 AM
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I can tell you that the most important connection you must make (or get right) is the one that controls your waste gate!
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back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2
*SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction...
"Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP)
Old 01-13-2008, 11:50 AM
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A labeled picture:
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back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2
*SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction...
"Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP)
Old 01-13-2008, 12:00 PM
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Thanks

Sandman,

Thanks for the help. Your pictures definitely help. If anyone else out there has removed the OEM BOV to install an intercooler, please feel free to chime in.

I will post pic's tonight of what I'm looking at so maybe they can help.

Bryan
Old 01-13-2008, 03:57 PM
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Good pics sandman those will probably help me this week too
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Old 01-13-2008, 04:13 PM
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This link is how to install a Kokeln, but it's the same procedure for a B6.

http://members.rennlist.com/magisterc/kokeln.html
Old 01-13-2008, 04:24 PM
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That helps.

Thanks for the link. That comes in handy. I need to know a couple of other things.

1) I know where the hose connects that travels to my Wastegate
2) I know I need to replace the sending unit (with the spring around it) onto the new IC, and re-connect the wire. (Picture #4)

I have some questions on where and to what do some of these lines pictured connect to. can you tell me what they are for.

What is #6 for and do I need to keep it?

Thanks,



Old 01-13-2008, 04:39 PM
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#6 is a throttle bipass valve. The function is to allow air around the throttle after lifting; the rusult is the revs come down slowly. You don't really need it unless you have a light flywheel that might creat a stall if the revs come down too quickly. For the same reason this device helps keep the engine in boost between shifts if you are slow at the stick. Your call.
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Old 01-13-2008, 04:58 PM
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Rarlyl8

Is there a way to keep it, and if so, how would I hook it up?

Thanks,
Bryan

PS. I am interested in your tubes for the exhaust and the wastegate. Can you email me (not post) some pics of those or direct to a post with pics?
Old 01-13-2008, 05:34 PM
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I think number 3 was/is the actuation line for the large factory BOV housing that has now been removed. I capped that line.
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back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2
*SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction...
"Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP)
Old 01-13-2008, 07:06 PM
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CLick on the web address in my signature line. Go to "turbo".

I'm sure there is a way to keep the bipass valve but most do not. I would try it without and add back if need be.
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'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 01-14-2008, 05:34 AM
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Number 5, I believe is the air-box connection for the factory turbo scavenge drip tank vent...I have this capped on mine since I'm running a B&B drip tank that has no provision for this vent.
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back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2
*SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction...
"Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP)
Old 01-14-2008, 06:21 AM
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You can cap off #1. Actually, you can remove the other hose going to it as well.
I used #2 port to to go to the top of BOV.
You can cap off #3 or follow the hose and remove all.
You can cap off #5.
You can remove #6.


Quote:
Originally Posted by x98boardwell View Post
Thanks for the link. That comes in handy. I need to know a couple of other things.

1) I know where the hose connects that travels to my Wastegate
2) I know I need to replace the sending unit (with the spring around it) onto the new IC, and re-connect the wire. (Picture #4)

I have some questions on where and to what do some of these lines pictured connect to. can you tell me what they are for.

What is #6 for and do I need to keep it?

Thanks,

Last edited by A930Rocket; 01-14-2008 at 05:27 PM..
Old 01-14-2008, 05:22 PM
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A930Rocket

Thanks for the input. I need a little more detail (sorry, not an expert, but trying to learn). I have the following questions,

1) #5 can still be vented into the drip tank as normal because it does not effect my intercooler at all, correct?
2) #6 is on my old BOV, so I will just leave it off and do nothing with it? Rarlyl8 stated that #6 was a bypass valve and slows the boost drop between shifts. Would I be able to keep that as I will not be shifting the 4-speed like a G50-50.
3) #2 going to top of new BOV on elbow makes sense.
4) #3, 2 and 1. What purpose did these serve, and will I need to adjust fuel mixture (rich/lean) after installing B6 and K27s? Or, will the engine adjust automatically based on what it senses?

Thanks,
Bryan
Old 01-14-2008, 05:40 PM
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#5 can be vented as usual. If you keep the stock driptank. If you swap turbos, it will probably come with a ventless driptank and you can delete the hose.
#6. You can either keep it or remove it. It will clean up the engine by removing it. I've had mine off or years without problems.
#3, 2, and 1. It's been so long I don't remember, but I want to say emission stuff and maybe warm up stuff. I've had mine off or years without problems.

With a different turbo, it would not hurt to dyno the car to make sure your A/F ratios are good. The engine will not adjust to what's on the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by x98boardwell View Post
Thanks for the input. I need a little more detail (sorry, not an expert, but trying to learn). I have the following questions,

1) #5 can still be vented into the drip tank as normal because it does not effect my intercooler at all, correct?
2) #6 is on my old BOV, so I will just leave it off and do nothing with it? Rarlyl8 stated that #6 was a bypass valve and slows the boost drop between shifts. Would I be able to keep that as I will not be shifting the 4-speed like a G50-50.
3) #2 going to top of new BOV on elbow makes sense.
4) #3, 2 and 1. What purpose did these serve, and will I need to adjust fuel mixture (rich/lean) after installing B6 and K27s? Or, will the engine adjust automatically based on what it senses?

Thanks,
Bryan
Old 01-15-2008, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x98boardwell View Post
Thanks for the input. I need a little more detail (sorry, not an expert, but trying to learn). I have the following questions,

1) #5 can still be vented into the drip tank as normal because it does not effect my intercooler at all, correct?
2) #6 is on my old BOV, so I will just leave it off and do nothing with it? Rarlyl8 stated that #6 was a bypass valve and slows the boost drop between shifts. Would I be able to keep that as I will not be shifting the 4-speed like a G50-50.
3) #2 going to top of new BOV on elbow makes sense.
4) #3, 2 and 1. What purpose did these serve, and will I need to adjust fuel mixture (rich/lean) after installing B6 and K27s? Or, will the engine adjust automatically based on what it senses?

Thanks,
Bryan
Bryan,

#1 and #3 are manifold vacuum connections for the factory diverter assembly and the vacuum booster (#6). #3 connects manifold vacuum into the diverter, and #1 puts manifold vacuum into the booster (can with nipple #6). Since you're removing the diverter and the booster (which is used to operate the diverter more efficiently), the easiest 'fix' is to take the hose end #3, fish it under the intake (leave the one end connected) and connect #3 to port #1 which will close these vacuum ports that the diverter used.

#2 was used to signal the booster which then operated the diverter - we'll use it for the same purpose, to signal the new BOV, so it gets connected to the BOV on the big rubber elbow.

#4 is the wire for the boost cutoff switch, which will be relocated from the diverter to the intercooler. This is the smaller, white sending unit, not the big orange/red rubber one (sending unit for the OE boost gauge) with VDO stamped on it. The fuel pumps will not work unless this wire is connected to this sending unit (or grounded), so leaving it off will keep you from actually using your car.

#5 is a vent that's connected to the tank under the turbo. If your exhaust is stock, keep it connected. If you already have an aftermarket exhaust and new oil return tank, there is nothing to connect it to, as the aftermarket tanks have no vent. In that case, it needs to be capped, as it will allow unfiltered air into the intake system.

#6 is part of the diverter (it takes the intake vacuum signal and, boosts/uses it to actuate the diverter as needed), and can go away when you switch to the BOV (see #1 and #3 above).

Good Luck!

Pat K.
87 930
Old 01-15-2008, 11:03 AM
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Thank You!!!

Pat K.

I want to thank you for your help. That is exactly what I was looking for. It could have only been improved if you would have come to California to show me in person, I guess your not the "go the extra mile type".. Just kidding.

Your help is much appreciated. I can't thank you enough.

Bryan

PS. Also a huge thank you to all others that helped. This is a testament to why I stand by Pelican Parts. Great information... Great People.
Old 01-16-2008, 12:01 PM
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B6

Hi there,installed a B6 on my 86 930 a few years ago,biggest problem was fitting the intercooler itself as the mount holes didn't line up.If you could convince customs to allow me into the states I would gladly come down and give you a hand.
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellcats521 View Post
Bryan,

#1 and #3 are manifold vacuum connections for the factory diverter assembly and the vacuum booster (#6). #3 connects manifold vacuum into the diverter, and #1 puts manifold vacuum into the booster (can with nipple #6). Since you're removing the diverter and the booster (which is used to operate the diverter more efficiently), the easiest 'fix' is to take the hose end #3, fish it under the intake (leave the one end connected) and connect #3 to port #1 which will close these vacuum ports that the diverter used.

#2 was used to signal the booster which then operated the diverter - we'll use it for the same purpose, to signal the new BOV, so it gets connected to the BOV on the big rubber elbow.

#4 is the wire for the boost cutoff switch, which will be relocated from the diverter to the intercooler. This is the smaller, white sending unit, not the big orange/red rubber one (sending unit for the OE boost gauge) with VDO stamped on it. The fuel pumps will not work unless this wire is connected to this sending unit (or grounded), so leaving it off will keep you from actually using your car.

#5 is a vent that's connected to the tank under the turbo. If your exhaust is stock, keep it connected. If you already have an aftermarket exhaust and new oil return tank, there is nothing to connect it to, as the aftermarket tanks have no vent. In that case, it needs to be capped, as it will allow unfiltered air into the intake system.

#6 is part of the diverter (it takes the intake vacuum signal and, boosts/uses it to actuate the diverter as needed), and can go away when you switch to the BOV (see #1 and #3 above).

Good Luck!

Pat K.
87 930
Hello Pat,
Thank you for your description. I have an old 930 in the garage and want to install a LLK Kokeln.
Also thanks to Sandman for the explanations. Greetings from Leonberg / Stuttgart to you, Thank you Dominik
Old 12-01-2017, 08:25 PM
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