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resident samsquamch
 
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cooterville, Cackalacky
Posts: 6,778
The reason I do one side at a time is that it makes it much easier to find a stopping point; especially if I get interruptions from the kids, wife, neighbors, etc. Or if I'm cutting it close on time, I can easily call one side done, button it up, and drive the car until I find time for the other side.

It sucks to mark and disconnect the spark plug wires (I have 12), remove all the valve covers and then not be able to finish the job...keep in mind, I need my car on a daily basis.
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-jeff
back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2
*SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction...
"Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP)

Last edited by sand_man; 02-06-2008 at 04:29 PM..
Old 02-06-2008, 04:27 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
wcc wcc is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Michigan
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I didn't read all of this because it's late, but I'm a HUGE fan of the backside method. I've done it the traditional ways but this is a fool proof process.

The first couple of times I did a valve adj with Oh Haha we set it doing the traditional method and double checking it with the backside method. Now we set it with the backside method and check it using the traditional way. It's worked out the best!
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Bill
Old 02-06-2008, 08:07 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #22 (permalink)
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I just did my first valve adjustment today what a nightmare, im using the backside method but heres my problem. I adjust them as per the instructions, tighten everything down then check it again then i move to the next cylinder and do that one. After i was done i went back and checked them all and on some cylinders the .003 slid right in so i did it again and each was good. Then after i finished i checked them all again and once again the .003 slid right in. What am i doing wrong any tips???

Thanks
JERRY
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1992 968
2011 Cayenne
2007 997 Turbo
1991 964 Turbo
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Old 03-05-2008, 05:38 PM
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resident samsquamch
 
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cooterville, Cackalacky
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Could it be that as you spin the engine around to check your work, you're not hitting the exact same spot on the pulley notch and the fan housing mark? Visually I'm sure it looks close, but I wonder if just being a c_nt hair off might cause your check to be off?

FWIW, after I tighten the adjustment nut and double check my work with the feelers, I don't go back. I just move onto the next cylinder.
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-jeff
back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2
*SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction...
"Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP)
Old 03-06-2008, 11:13 AM
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Macht Schnell
 
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: PSL, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boeing 717 View Post
I just did my first valve adjustment today what a nightmare, im using the backside method but heres my problem. I adjust them as per the instructions, tighten everything down then check it again then i move to the next cylinder and do that one. After i was done i went back and checked them all and on some cylinders the .003 slid right in so i did it again and each was good. Then after i finished i checked them all again and once again the .003 slid right in. What am i doing wrong any tips???

Thanks
JERRY
You want the .0025 feeler to be tight. I check it by pulling that feeler out and trying to put it back. If I have a little difficulty getting the .0025 back in, it is perfect. The .0025 feeler should have a drag pulling out and a side to side wiggle and push to get back in. You just want to be able to barely get it in there.

I stick the .0025 in there and tighten until it is stuck and just back off enough where it will move, then tighten down. After you get the feel down, you'll start noticing how much you have to turn the slot in the adjuster back after you get to the binding point to reach the proper adjustment. Pay close attention to the slot in the adjuster. Combining feel and watching the slot makes you able to do a set of valves in 5 minutes or less.

What're ya stupid or somethin'!

Just kiddin'. 911 valves are a PITA. Once you get the feel down though, you would never want to do it the conventional way again. You obviously are leaving then loose.

I suppose the only other thing it could be is that your adjusters are banged up and old and never hit the same spot on the elephant foot two times in a row. Doubt it though.
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---Les Garten---85 930, Andial IC, GHL Headers, Fabspeed Dual, K-27 HF2, 3.4 JE Full Finned 7.5:1 CR, 964 CAM'd, Carerra 3.2 Manifold Cut/Flipped, Tec3r, Siemans 55#, GSF Fuel Rails, Clewett Crank Trigger, Clewett Cam Trigger,Dual Plugged, ARP Head Studs/Rod Bolts, Clewett Wires.Tial 46mm WG, Tial 50mm BOV, WEVO Shifter,934 Boost Gauge, Wideband EGO Sensor/Gauge, C2T Head Gaskets, '88 MB 300TE,BMW R100RT
Old 03-06-2008, 12:28 PM
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beancounter
 
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In my experience, sometimes you really have to work at it to get the feeler gauge in to take the measurement. Why? Don't know. Moonphase? Solar flares? Anyhow, I noticed a similar phenomenon. I couldn't get in the .0025, then all of a sudden it goes in, but now the .003 goes in real easy too. I found that in some situations the .0025 didn't want to go, but I would keep working it, and then could get it to go.
Old 03-06-2008, 06:51 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #26 (permalink)
Macht Schnell
 
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: PSL, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwasbury View Post
In my experience, sometimes you really have to work at it to get the feeler gauge in to take the measurement. Why? Don't know. Moonphase? Solar flares? Anyhow, I noticed a similar phenomenon. I couldn't get in the .0025, then all of a sudden it goes in, but now the .003 goes in real easy too. I found that in some situations the .0025 didn't want to go, but I would keep working it, and then could get it to go.
Please read all the posts on the first page again. If this is happening to you, you are doing it wrong. Pay attention to the method I use on the first page. You are only talking 5/10,000's of a difference in the two feelers. The .0025 has to be a tight drag. Basically if you can just pull it out when you are locked down it is correct. You are going to have some difficulty re-inserting the .0025 because you are coming at an angle to the gap. You are not lining up on the gap perfectly. So as you insert the feeler it has to flex a little and seem thicker till it finds it's way in and straightens out IN the gap.

There is a market amongst Pelicanites for yet another set of custom 911 feeler gauges! The Backside Set!! The custom feelers for the traditional method I was highly unimpressed with. These feelers need to be long, color coded, and angled to attack the gap straight. Keep workin' on your technique. Once you get it, there's no way you would ever go back.
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---Les Garten---85 930, Andial IC, GHL Headers, Fabspeed Dual, K-27 HF2, 3.4 JE Full Finned 7.5:1 CR, 964 CAM'd, Carerra 3.2 Manifold Cut/Flipped, Tec3r, Siemans 55#, GSF Fuel Rails, Clewett Crank Trigger, Clewett Cam Trigger,Dual Plugged, ARP Head Studs/Rod Bolts, Clewett Wires.Tial 46mm WG, Tial 50mm BOV, WEVO Shifter,934 Boost Gauge, Wideband EGO Sensor/Gauge, C2T Head Gaskets, '88 MB 300TE,BMW R100RT
Old 03-06-2008, 07:24 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #27 (permalink)
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