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Crotchety Old Bastard
 
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Again, check your A/F ratios. This is all speculation until you know what you've got.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 02-05-2008, 03:03 PM
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I've ran the andial unit, it controls the fuel head control pressure the same as a adjustable WUR. However, it's a switch at .6 bar. You can max out the flow of your stock fuel head with it and keep from going lean but theres no smooth transition for .6 to 1 bar. No matter how I adjusted it, it would not deliver the ideal a/f throughout the rpm range. Running a fully programmable unit now and it works much better.

Dan
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Old 02-05-2008, 08:54 PM
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I stand corrected... $290 for the complete kit. Install is very easy although you will likely have to lengthen the included wiring kit.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/db.php
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Rob Montgomery
'88 Blk/Blk 930 ('Lucy') - Not Stock & Not Running
Old 02-06-2008, 06:29 AM
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Thanks, I gotta have one of those. How long did it take you to install it?

Here another question for you guys. If my A/F ratio is good and in the save zone under boost, then what are the chance of detonation occuring, beside bad gas?
Old 02-06-2008, 06:54 AM
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Physically hooking the system up is simple. Screw in the O2 sensor, attache the gauge to its connectors and run the power and ground wires (I tapped both in under the driver side kick panel). What take a little time is getting the bung welded into the muffler tubing (preferably after the turbo but before the actual can), drilling the whole in the fire wall to send the wires through, lengthening the included wires (mine were about 2.5 feet too short to reach the dash from the engine compartment), and lastly deciding where you want to mount the gauge and fabing any necessary mounting plates (I replaced my driver side air vent with a flat piece of aluminum and mounted the gauge into that).

None of this is difficult (except the welding which I had my shop do) but it take some time.
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'88 Blk/Blk 930 ('Lucy') - Not Stock & Not Running
Old 02-06-2008, 07:11 AM
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Crotchety Old Bastard
 
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Verifying your A/F ratio throughout the operating range will eliminate that one perameter as a cause for detonation. You can then start looking at timing, fuel quality, boost level, temperatures, engine age, etc. Lots of things can cause detonation.
One thing I would do if in your shoes is a dyno run. You can log all the data while having you or someone else physically stand by the engine and listen for detonation in real time. A quiet muffler will help (obviously).
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 02-06-2008, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lite75 View Post
Running a fully programmable unit now and it works much better.
Do tell.
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Coming SOME DAY...1991 3.3 turbo, Tahoe Blue Metallic with some mods
Old 02-06-2008, 09:49 AM
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I'm all ears too, is the Unwired Tools model or some other? Pics would be great if you have them!

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Originally Posted by Ag02M5 View Post
Do tell.
Old 02-06-2008, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ag02M5 View Post
Do tell.
+1
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 02-06-2008, 09:56 AM
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On a side note, I was considering using the Andial unit, Adj WUR, and RPM solenoid to create a 3 stage setup. Hopefully there will be a digiWUR actually available before I go to that much trouble.

From my research (not tested)...the adj WUR can deliver a ton more fuel up top. The 3.6t WUR creates a pressure drop of .3 bar more than the 3.3t (964) if I recall. But there is room to go well past the 3.6t before running out of fuel (due to injectors and fuel head) with the adj WUR. Granted you are worsening the Peter/Paul effect. But that is where the RPM switch comes in.

And yet another thought is to use the output from Zeitronix/trigger to have a complex rule to trigger the switch based on boost AND AFR or just AFR.
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WTB: 964/965 Turbo stuff...carbon fibre bits, Techart wheel parts, RS/lightweight flywheel, 993 EVO uprights, G50 gears or 6 sp., 964 RSR swaybars, custom droplinks and any other cool stuff, pm me! Also a nice medium build 327 Chevy engine.

Coming SOME DAY...1991 3.3 turbo, Tahoe Blue Metallic with some mods

Last edited by Ag02M5; 02-06-2008 at 10:22 AM..
Old 02-06-2008, 09:57 AM
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I have the Andial installed in Blkbird and have had no problems. I've never tried or compared it to an adjustable WUR though so I couldn't say which is better. And I don't pretend to be a good enough driver to handle 1 full bar of boost for any length of time so for me the difference between Andial and WUR may be a moot point.

But I do agree about the Innovate A/F system. I used the XD-16 with the LC-1 and think its a great addition to the car. Very helpful in passing emissions testing and seeing what is going on with the motor. Personally I'd do the Innovate before either of the Andial or the WUR.

$0.25
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Boost Addiction - honestly, I have it under control
1989 911 Turbo Cabriolet
Mods include: Kokeln IC, GHL Headers, Hooligan muffler, Modified K27 7200, BL WUR, LC-1 & XD-16, Bilstein Sports (4), TRG sway bars, Oversize torsion bars, Strut brace
Old 02-21-2008, 05:52 PM
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