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stevie 77 930's Avatar
 
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This is the one you are refering to.....

Oil Line (C) 930 107 336 03

First I would pressure wash the entire oil tank and line before you start replacing all of your lines. Check the fittings for tightness as well. It appears most of the leak (s) are from the fitttings at the tank. Check your hoses after you cleaned them up to determine which ones are acctually leaking. No sense on spending the $$ if you don't have to.
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:43 AM
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Thanks Stevie.....
Old 02-22-2008, 11:29 AM
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None of those oil leaks are a major deal to fix.
The pressure lines are going to cost a few bucks and the oil line "s" hose is pretty cheap.
You may want to bulk up your tool supply though, getting those oil lines off could be a trick in itself. But it is pretty self explanitory, take a line off, replace it- take another line off, replace it etc... but they sometimes dont want to break free after 20+ years of staying there.
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Old 02-22-2008, 11:52 AM
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You can goet those type of oil lines repaired with new hose and crimps. A specialist shop has to do the work. I have a shop right near where I live and I found it very convenient to do this. I also saved approx 50% in cash.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 02-23-2008, 02:10 AM
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Welcome Bleachii,

I don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet, but I would clean all that plumbing , hoses etc. and your engine well with Gunk and determine where your leaks are coming from. At least you can attack the worst culprits first and eventually replace other less lethal leaks later IMHO. These parts are expensive so I would be sure what NEEDS to be done now while your acquiring tools and other requirements if you are going to be your mech... Just my thoughts.

Have fun and take your time. IMO this is a rather different and difficult car to work on compared to others but worth it.

Guys, Bleeachii will jump head first in this a taste the potential upgrades and get the "Bug" Soon he will be posting what turbo upgrades and other goodies he needs.."Just like all of us"

"This is an expensive affliction and almost as good as S_X"

Bob
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Old 02-23-2008, 09:02 AM
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I've learnt to clean my engine areas with WD40 or similar as anything too harsh makes the parts go white with corrosion. It softens oily grime and dirt easily.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 02-24-2008, 05:00 AM
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Brian,

As Bob and others have stated, clean it all up with Gunk or Simple Green and run it to see where it starts to leak and address those spots. Leaks have a tendency to get everywhere and can sometimes be difficult to pinpoint.

When is the last time you ran the motor?

If you get stuck, PM me. I'm local.

Tinker
Old 02-24-2008, 12:08 PM
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Holy Cow

Wow, just checking in to post a pic and thoughts on the weekend and found a bunch of new responses. Thanks to all of you for your help and thoughts. Once I found out one of the hoses was a bit over $200 I decided to do what has been mentioned and clean and take stock of my problem. I am learning that finding oil leaks isn't as easy as it sounds. Where you find the oil dripping isn't always the location of the problem as I'm sure all of you know. I also learned that it's much more difficult to use the drive up car wash pressure washer with the right rear wheel reinstalled. My car is lowered to European height so there just isn't much room to operate. I did manage to blindly get it pretty clean as I found out when I returned home and removed the wheel.

I still can't be 100% sure but it appears that hose 'B' is the problem where it meets at the oil tank. The leak is pretty minor so I am going to start with just trying to tighten things up first. There are some other leaks coming from under the car...atleast one of which is an oil return tube.

I actually focused on fixing the steering wheel bushing this weekend as well. I used the quick fix metal bushing and it worked like a charm. I also had brake issues....squishy brakes. My brake fluid reservoir was very low so I added brake fluid and that seems to have solved the problem. I can't find a leak in the brakes so why the brake fluid was low remains a mystery at this point. Only a few days ago I didn't even know where the brake fluid reservoir was located. Plan to flush the brake lines and bleed the lines in the next few weeks but since they are stiff at the moment I figured I would check for leaks and watch the fluid level before tackling anything further.

Since I'm new...here is a quick background on the car. I bought it 10 years ago in Seattle. The original owner had a large collection of cars and was selling it. There was a matching cabriolet and they were breaking up the pair. I have driven it minimally over the last 10 years to the tune of 14,000 miles. The car had been sitting for the past 3-4 months as the number of issues started to rise (brakes, steering play, oil leaks, etc.). With 2 kids now it is more difficult to keep scaring up wads of cash to pay for the repair bills and faulty steering and poor brakes along with oil leaks sounded expensive! I decided to do the repairs myself and learn more about the car in the process. I have learned a ton in the past 3 weeks since deciding to tackle these repairs one at a time. I'm taking my time and want to say thanks for the support.

I also changed my tune from thinking I had an albatross in my garage to falling back in love again. Alright...maybe not love but hopefully you guys understand. Anyway, I spent a large portion of the weekend detailing her so at least she looks nice while waiting for me to tackle the oil leaks. Here is a pic as well...

Thanks Again!



Old 02-24-2008, 10:32 PM
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Awesome.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg
Old 02-25-2008, 01:12 PM
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Awesome car, Brian! It's almost as nice as my BLACK 930! LOL (just kidding). No really, great color and great stance.

After you have figured out where your oil leak(s) are and have repaired them...And have had some time to enjoy your ride, there are a couple of other oil lines you should make a note of. The ones that lead to your cam covers at each rear side of the engine...And the worst oil line of all! The dreaded one that starts at the top front of the engine (just right of center a 6"-8" back from where the engine meets the tranny) as a banjo where an oil sending unit is and leads across the top of the crankcase down to the turbo. The metal banjo unit leads to a 14"-18" steel line that leads into a rubber line over the rear left cylinder somewhere before leading down to the turbo. If this is leaking, you must take off your IC and parts beneath your IC to get to the line. If you ever have to take this one out, I suggest loosening both ends completely, and then pulling it through from the back left. You will have to bend the steel line and probably cut the rubber line to get it out. Replace with a SS braided line using the stock end fittings. FYI, replacing all your stock lines with SS braided ones using the metal fittings that came off your stock hoses, will probably be a lot cheaper than buying the stock ones. Good luck and have fun! Geoff
Old 02-25-2008, 01:58 PM
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bleachii,

Love the exterior color. The interior looks like cork leather. Great combo. Think of it like this.....it appears as though your car is cosmetically in perfect condition. Sounds like you need to renew some wear idems that are almost 30 years old. The oil leaks, brakes, CV joints, engine mounts, etc..... are all in the realm of the home mechanic. You may need to invest in a few tools, jack and stands. All in all most of the reapairs your are looking at will allow you to become very intimate with your 10 year old. Strategize your projects one at a time. Buy a few parts of one project over some time and that will ease your outlay. Do one project to completion, sit back and enjoy your work and the car for a while before you start another. Make time for your family and your family will make time for you and your car. Good Luck !
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1974 914
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2017 BMW 340I M Sport Package
1977 930 (recently sold)
1976 911S , 1973 1/2 911T, 1972 911E (long gone)
Old 02-25-2008, 02:20 PM
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Thanks for the comment Nathan. Icemann, I was in search of a black one when I stumbled upon this car....never met a black sports car where I thought...hmmm....that color doesn't look very good. The color of the car is Minerva blue with cork interior (nice guess Stevie).

Icemann...I would like to get in touch with you to better understand how I can get braided hoses and where it might make sense. I also might have a crank case leak....it's so hard to figure out where they are coming from.

Good advice Stevie....I have been working very slow trying to be safe and read/ask a lot of questions. Even though the work has been simple so far it seems to have helped build a good methodical approach for the tougher projects to come. The oil leaks have risen to the top of my project list again.

Take care,
Brian
Old 02-25-2008, 03:54 PM
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Hey Brian

I know a little from where I speak on the SS braided hose thing, since over the last month or so I replaced your "C" hose, the big steel return line that goes on the bottom of the crankcase (I think you were talking about this one regarding your exhaust being in the way), the one that goes to the turbo oil accumulator, and the b**ch of all oil lines that I talked to you about in my last post. I got all my lines at American Hose & Fittings here in Tucson, AZ. I don't know if this is a national company, or not, but I'm sure there is a company in your area that sells/specializes in hoses if you live somewhere at least as big as Tucson. On all the oil lines except the big steel return line, they used all the stock fitting ends from the factory hoses and just brazed those ends onto their hard ends that they fabricated to the SS braided lines. On the big one, they fabricated it from their own fittings. They look great and will last forever. The four hoses cost me a total of about $250 (for all four). If you need anything further just e-mail me at icemann427@msn.com. Cheers.
Old 02-25-2008, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icemann427 View Post
Replace with a SS braided line using the stock end fittings. FYI, replacing all your stock lines with SS braided ones using the metal fittings that came off your stock hoses, will probably be a lot cheaper than buying the stock ones. Good luck and have fun! Geoff
Very pretty car.. It would be easy to fall back in love!

I'm currently replacing a lot of my lines, same process as Iceman has mentioned, braided steel with the factory fitting. In some cases metric fittings and/or adapters are available. There should be a few places near you that can help you with this.. the local speed shop should have the lines and if they're a good quality shop, they will be able to help you with making-up the lines.

Also try: http://www.batinc.net or for adapters http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+4294849620

Iceman: Can you post some pics of your lines and your car?

Paul
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Last edited by onboost; 02-26-2008 at 07:42 AM..
Old 02-26-2008, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onboost View Post
I'm currently replacing a lot of my lines, same process as Iceman has mentioned, braided steel with the factory fitting. In some cases metric fittings and/or adapters are available. There should be a few places near you that can help you with this....Paul
Excellent source of fittings, hose and custom fabrication of hose assemblies, SS braid, Aeroquip, Metric to AN, etc.
Take em your tired ones - they will replicate to perfection or revise with Aeroquip or SS braid if you prefer.
Adjacent city to Huntington Beach, CA

Mesa Hose
870 W 17th St, Unit G-5
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
949-645-1135
(Open M-F, Sat till noon)
Old 02-26-2008, 01:06 PM
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Iceman: Can you post some pics of your lines and your car?

Paul

OK, Paul (and Brian) here are some pictures of parts of most of the braided lines on my car. Difficult to get them in total since most of them wind around, and I can't get you a picture of the mother of all oil lines that runs along the top of the engine to the turbo because, for the most part, its not visible...And Paul, you asked for some pictures of my car, so here are a few. If the hose pictures uploaded in order, then the first one is the one to the oil accumulator; the second is Brian's hose "C"; the third is Brian's "C" and the big return; and the fourth is an attempt to see where the big return plugs into the crankcase.

Geoff







Old 02-26-2008, 04:04 PM
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That sure seems like the proper fix to this problem. Do I take the current hose/fittings to a shop and ask them to make me one? What about 'A' and 'B' that connect to the hard lines. Do I just get the host portion replaced for those? Seems like that would save quite a bit considering hose 'A' in my pics is over $200.

Thanks for sharing those pics Icemann....nice shade of black btw.

Thanks for chiming in Onboost.

Last edited by bleachii; 02-26-2008 at 05:05 PM..
Old 02-26-2008, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 356-930 View Post
Excellent source of fittings, hose and custom fabrication of hose assemblies, SS braid, Aeroquip, Metric to AN, etc.
Take em your tired ones - they will replicate to perfection or revise with Aeroquip or SS braid if you prefer.
Adjacent city to Huntington Beach, CA

Mesa Hose
870 W 17th St, Unit G-5
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
949-645-1135
(Open M-F, Sat till noon)
Almost missed your post 356-930! Perfect....they are so close to me.

Thanks!
Old 02-26-2008, 04:59 PM
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Hi Brian,

Yes, just take the hose(s) to that shop and they will take your ends and make you a new hose. As far as the bigger hoses (A & B) they will most probably provide you with the new end pieces, too. Regarding my A, I just got rid of the hard steel lines on the way to the crankcase and had them make me a full run out of braided line. If you upgrade to a header system in lieu of the factory exhaust, you will have to do this, anyway. So if you are thinking about putting headers on, make the whole run in braid. Both C & A run along the top of the motor (approximately where the engine meets the tranny) to their respective places.

While you could probably use those new red and blue end fittings, I like using the existing oil line ends for a couple of reasons. First, I like the way the existing ends make the braid appear factory. Second, I don't want the "colored" ends to make it appear aftermarket. And third, I know the factory ends will match up perfectly.

Geoff
Old 02-26-2008, 06:14 PM
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Brian, I happened on to a couple of pictures that show the metal start to the very difficult line that goes along the top of the crankcase and just over the cooling plastic that I told you about. If you find the oil sending unit in the pictures, you will see a metal banjo just beneath it that said sending unit plugs into. That metal line ends up about over the left rear cylinder where it turns into a rubber hose leading to the turbo with another solid fitting. ALSO, in the pictures you will see an approximate 3/4" metal line that plugs into a gooseneck just to the left of the oil sending unit. The cloth/rubber hose that ties that steel line into the crankcase will go bad over time and will leak. If you take off your air cleaner and intercooler you will be able to look at this area and replace that short hose, if necessary.
Old 02-26-2008, 06:45 PM
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