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930 Oil Leaks/Hello/Etc

First of all, hello to everyone. I have owned my 79 930 since '98. The car has been garaged and driven only 15000 miles over the past 10 years. Over the years I have paid mechanics to do all of the work on the car (chain tensioners, oil return tubes, other oil leaks, etc.) My car currently has multiple oil leaks and being no longer a dual income no kids household(now 2 kids 1 income) I find myself needing to save money where possible.

For better or worse I have decided to take on repairs myself where possible. I purchased Waynes book and stumbled across this web site while researching. First, is this the correct forum to post questions regarding normal stuff like oil leaks? I wasn't sure whether to post to the standard 911 forum or this forum. If necessary I can move my questions.

My knowledge of working on cars is ridiculously minimal. I have changed the oil in my car before...long time ago. But, I had to read the project on jacking up my car a good 6 times before actually doing it this weekend. This weekend was all about scoping out the problems and learning. No work has been started. I did manage to jack up the car and learn quite a bit without hurting the car or myself....baby steps!

I spent time under the car looking for the source of the leaks. All 4 oil return tubes appear to be leaking....again. I already ordered the 2 piece collapsible replacements. However, they are not leaking too bad so I'm putting this project on hold for now. I believe the real bad leak is coming from the lines connected to my oil reservoir behind the rear right tire. They appear to be easy to access. This is about the time I realized another problem about being new. I know which lines I would like to replace...but I don't have a clue what the lines are...or what they do. How do I order new parts from Pelican when I don't know what part number I need? Are there schematics available for my car so I can figure out parts and part numbers?

Also, and this is specific to our model's. If I replace the oil return tubes it really appears it would be easier to do the job with the heat exchangers off of the car. Is this true? The heat exchangers are different from the pictures in Waynes book that show access to the studs through the access holes in the exchangers. Do 79 930's have different exchangers that do not require the special tool? As an aside....Since my mechanic replaced the oil return tubes a number of years ago I'm hoping he removed the heat exchangers before and perhaps they won't be too hard to remove. That remains to be seen!

I have a few other repairs I need to do as well but right now I'm taking this one step at a time....so I'll stop here and just say thanks for any input.

Take Care,
Brian Leach
Huntington Beach, CA
Old 02-11-2008, 12:48 AM
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Brian,

Welcome. You came to the right place. But you should also be aware of the www.rennlist.com site, which has a very active forum for technical assistance. Many people here post on both sites. The problems you're looking to solve are common to 911s and 930s, and many people have beaten down that path. They're well within your reach, even if you haven't wrenched on your car before, if you have patience, the right tools, and some good advice.

I suggest you find a fellow Rennlister or Pelican who can counsel you in person -- someone with experience who can come over and see your car, help you diagnose the problem(s) and counsel you on the repair. A mentor, of sorts. There should be many, many people in your area who fit the bill. I hope someone will volunteer to help. Oh, and Wayne's book is an excellent resource.

First, I wouldn't jump to any conclusions yet about the source of your oil leaks. It may indeed be that the oil return tubes are leaking again, but there are other possibilities too (including the head to cam tower sealing surface) that could be an issue. Regarding the heat exchangers, the factory units had holes in them for accessing certain header bolts. But aftermarket headers with heater boxes do not have these holes. Perhaps you have aftermarket units? Removing them is not necessarily difficult, but it's really important not to break any of the head studs, so precautions should be taken there.

Good luck with your project.

Rob

Last edited by Rob 930; 02-11-2008 at 06:53 PM..
Old 02-11-2008, 08:58 AM
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The schematics and their appropriate part ordering numbers can be found under this sponsor's "Porsche" heading. After clicking on the Porsche, above, click on your appropriate year and type of vehicle (911 under this heading...there are no 930 headings), and click on the engine subtitle showing oil lines or oil delivery or something like that. There are schematics there you can find by car year and model. Also, you can find the same, or even better schematics at other parts jobbers like "Performance Products", etc. Depending on how long you are going to keep your car, you might want to have stainless steel mesh lines custom made to the appropriate length and diameter using the old oil lines' fittings. I did this to my 930 and it works very well. Good luck and don't be afraid to ask for more advice.
Old 02-11-2008, 02:27 PM
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Thank you

Thanks for the responses Rob and Icemann. I plan on taking my time with each of these projects. My plan is to keep the car for quite some time so might as well get used to doing at least some of the work myself. I had sort of become disillusioned with my car as of late but starting to work on it again has gotten me back in touch with it.

I'll have to figure out what sort of heat exchangers I have in place now. I certainly don't have the holes that are mentioned but they don't look to be anything fancy and I'm pretty sure the headers are stock.

Take Care,
Brian
Old 02-11-2008, 05:52 PM
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Drive it more and it won't leak

They are self healing!!
Old 02-11-2008, 08:37 PM
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Welcome and post some pics for us.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
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http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg

Last edited by NathanUK; 02-12-2008 at 01:09 PM..
Old 02-12-2008, 12:30 PM
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Brian,

Thinking further about this, I realized that factory 930 heat exchangers don't have holes for accessing the exhaust nuts. The holes only exist on certain 911 heat exchangers. which is what Wayne's book is focused on. So, you may well have the factory 930 units. Pics would help.

You don't really need special tools to remove them from your car. But some of those fasteners, especially on the turbo, can be a bear to remove. Patience and experience, along with a good assortment of hand tools, and maybe an acetylene torch to warm rusty connections, can make this an easier job. But before doing that, be sure you have a solid diagnosis on the oil leaks so you know whether it's worth the effort.

Rob
Old 02-12-2008, 01:53 PM
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Fell off this week guys....work got in the way. My tool kit is pretty sparse so even something as simple as removing a wheel sent me to the store. My ratchet was too short to give me enough leverage to get the right rear wheel off (I'm sure it was tightened with an air gun).

It appears that at least one of my oil lines in this area is leaking. The strange thing is that the area is very moist/oily and before I cleaned up 2 weeks ago there was a major oil loss from the car. Like a puddle. It was in the vicinity of the right rear area. Since I cleaned up there is hardly a drop on the ground. With that much oil loss I would expect to see oil leaking pretty steadily.

Also, this bad oil leak started after the car had been sitting for quite some time. I was expecting to see the leak pretty easily after cleaning up...perhaps the oil level is now lower than the leak? The way the car is leaking right now I wouldn't even care...barely a few drops. I'm guessing if I filled the oil up to it's proper level the leak would get worse again. I had never seen that much oil under the car before.

I'm looking to replace some of these tubes and sent a picture to Glenn at Pelican to help me figure out what I need. I'm attaching that picture here as well.

NathanUK....I'll attach some other pics of the car soon.

JLY535....that has worked in the past...not this time

Rob930....thanks for the clarification. I sprayed the nuts/bolts with WD40 (Is there something better than WD40?) yesterday and will do it again this week. I'll try and start removing things next weekend. There are definite leaks that look to require the removal but I'm going to check it out further before proceeding. I'm in no hurry.

Thanks everyone.

Old 02-18-2008, 09:16 AM
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Leaks

Hello Brian,

I will try and help if I can. I own an 87 930 and just replaced some of the similar lines you have.

A) Thermostat (located inside the front side of your passenger rear wheel well) to Engine Line. This line much be replaced from the thermostat (the hard and soft portion of the line) to the other hard line that bolts to your crankcase

B) Thermostat to oil Tank Line. This line also must be replaced from the thermostat to the oil tank including the hard and soft portion of the line.

C) Not sure on this one. I think this one comes from your oil separator that is located inside your engine compartment behind the oil fill tube. This line is not under any pressure (if I'm correct on what it is) and may stop leaking once tightened. There is a connecting socket just inside your engine tin if you follow that line. You will see two hose clamps and these may need to be tightened. Oil can seep out of this connector and run down your line (C) and appear to be leaking. You will need to take out your air box (will make it easier) to reach these lines as they are deep in the back corner of the motor.

D) This looks like your "S" line. This is also an easy fix.

All of these lines are available from the host and are reasonably priced.

Good luck with the fix,

Bryan
Old 02-18-2008, 10:26 AM
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Thanks

Thank you for the reply Bryan. I'm waiting for Glenn to get me some part numbers and then I'll post them for future reference.

Take Care,
Brian
Old 02-18-2008, 11:03 AM
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Part Numbers

Here they are

A) OEM-93010772910
B) OEM-91110773011
C) OEM-93010738906 (if you have the oil separator that I was describing above and that is the line in the photo)
D)OEM-93010723302 or OEM-91110723300 (not sure if there is any difference between these lines.

This should be it. Let me know if they match up.

Bryan
Old 02-18-2008, 12:07 PM
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For the record from Glenn at Pelican. Thanks Bryan and Glenn.

1) oil line "A" is part number OEM-93010772910 and costs $218.75
2) oil line "B" is part number 911-107-730-11-M20 and costs $81.25
3) I can't see enough of hose "C" to determine what it is
4) I think hose "D" is what they call the "S" hose. Part number 930-107-233-02-M21 for $24.50
Old 02-19-2008, 07:26 AM
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Good Luck

Glad we could help. Have fun with those... I just finished mine.

Here is a picture of the oil separator that I was talking about. If you have this inside your engine compartment, then that is what line "C" is.

Bryan


Old 02-19-2008, 07:51 AM
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Upon further inspection last night it appears that the biggest culprit is hose 'B'. I'm pretty sure the leak from this hose where it attaches to the oil tank is causing the mess on hoses 'C' and 'D'. It also is probably the reason why the leaks have mostly stopped. The oil level is below the connection where B meets the oil tank. (This is just a guess) I'm not sure about the 'A' hose yet but given it's cost I'm going to confirm dripping oil before I replace it.

My plan is to clean everything this weekend and then add oil and inspect for leaks. I'll keep updating this thread for future reference.
Old 02-19-2008, 08:10 AM
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Brian,

FYI, If "C" is going to the oil sump tank, it is probably the line that goes to the oil pump just under the air injection pump on the left front of the engine (the driver's side). It has a metal pressure fitting that connects at the tank, then becomes rubber, then just before the oil cooler location turns into a hard metal line (where it is also secured) and runs over where the transmission meets the engine and down to the pump at the front left side. Geoff
Old 02-19-2008, 03:27 PM
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Corrected

Iceman,

I stand corrected. I went outside (this would have been easy from the beginning) and line C is in fact the line you were referring to.

Thanks for correcting any fusion caused by yours truly.

Bryan
Old 02-19-2008, 06:39 PM
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Not trying to add fuel to the fire.. but the 930 does not use an oile seperator pictured.

And as you mentioned in your correction "line C" does run from the tank around the upper back side of the motor to the oil pump for the turbo driven by the left side cam.

I'm currently replacing many of the same lines and this is one that I was looking at making in braided stainless as a replacement. The stock line where it mounts to the tank is metal tubing, it then mates to rubber for a very short distance then back to metal tubing. They always leak at one of the joints after time.
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Old 02-20-2008, 12:00 PM
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Sorry

Sorry to add water to your fire, but I own an 87 930 and it runs that exact oil separator pictured above. Cars in CA will mostly all have this on.

Didn't mean to put your fire out... just kidding. Easy to not know if you don't live in CA.

Bryan
Old 02-20-2008, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x98boardwell View Post
Sorry to add water to your fire, but I own an 87 930 and it runs that exact oil separator pictured above. Cars in CA will mostly all have this on.

Didn't mean to put your fire out... just kidding. Easy to not know if you don't live in CA.

Bryan
Yeah, don't think that was on 930 between 78-79.. an we know all Euro cars (80-86) didn't have it and thus the Turbo was not imported again until 87. Whew that fire's still burning.

Cheers
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Old 02-20-2008, 03:51 PM
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Thanks for all the responses guys....I dont' believe I have the oil separator but I need to take a closer look. Here is a closer shot of Hose C. Sounds like it is what Icemann mentioned and X98 agrees with....

I'll have a better handle on the problem this weekend. Going to clean things up and add oil to see if I can figure out exactly what is leaking. With a $200 hose in the picture I want to be sure it is in fact leaking before just replacing it.

Old 02-21-2008, 10:52 AM
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