GHL Headers w/heat install question
 

I've searched the posts and can't find quite what I'm looking for...and it's probably because this is a stupid question but here it goes. Just got my GHL exhaust system in w/heat and I'm trying to make sense of something before putting it on. There is a pipe that connects the two headers together that leads to the turbo (see pics). One end is female and one end is male. There are no slots in the female end where a hose clamp could be used to "crimp" the connection- and there was no hose clamp included for such a crimp. When pushed together the fit is snug but you can rotate the two headers. There were no instructions included in the kit- but the folks at Pelican lead me to believe this was a bolt-on installation with no welding required. I just can't figure how a loose connection like this would not lead to exhaust leaks. Am I missing something here? Thanks in advance for your response.



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Answer
 

Hello,

These are designed this way to allow the headers to move during heat cycles. That area should not be clamped.

Best of luck!

Bryan

Bryan- thank you for the prompt response!

Question number 2: By any chance was there difficulty found using the stock muffler support bracket? The passenger side header/heater box protrudes to the rear and the crossover pipe mentioned above is in the way of the bracket. The pelican parts diagrams show a different muffler bracket for pre-'86 930s which might work- and I think the exhaust system from GHL is the same regardless of year...so I'm thinking I'm either going to have to cut up and modify my 2-sided muffler bracket or buy an earlier 1-sided one. I could add some spacers but I may run into clearance issues w/muffler. Did anyone encounter this? It's funny- all the vendors sell this stuff claiming it's bolt-on (k27 for example)- just from that description alone you'd think all you'd need for a project that is "bolt on" is a wrench!

Jay

I just finished my install of the GHL\with heat on my 83 930. I didn't buy the install kit so I had to do some mods to make things fit. I had to move the oil return line to the front of the motor. I also had to change the angle of the accumulator flange to clear the left side header.Then because I used the stock WG I had to cut the WG muffler down to about 2" from the stock 8 or 10". Also had to cut and mod the left side fresh air supply to header, because the stock metal tubing was to long to fit the new headers.The fit on the heater output elbows was not real tight, so I wrapped them with aluminum duct tape used for industrial heat ducts then they fit nice and tight.good luck with the install. It makes a nice upgrade and really improves the turbo lag. By the way for this upgrade I did do a partial engine drop, Just dropped the rear about 8" or so to get at everything. Enjoy, Its a nice upgrade.

Jay, I have the GHLs with heat. My car has the original one-sided muffler bracket and there is no interference. I'm also using the original muffler and a GHL dump pipe off the wastegate.

I can post pics of the muffler bracket and crossover pipe area if you need to see.

Bracket question
 

If your referring to the Turbo support bracket, I had to modify mine. I used GSF headers and a K27s from Ultimate Motorworks. I have included pics below of the adjustments to the bracket that needed to be made for my fit. May be different with GHL but too many ideas on this task will never be too much as everyone is a little different.

Here they are. Good luck on the mods!


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204410214.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204410247.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204410286.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204410325.jpg

Hi guys- I was referring to the muffler support bracket. I see on Bryan's where it looks like it was cut/modified (it looks jagged in the pic). From what Bob says it sounds like an earlier, one-sided hanger doesn't have clearance issues. Guess I'll be cutting into mine this weekend. I've attached pics so you can see what I'm referring to. Thanks again everyone- I was just a little gun shy to cut into the hanger until I got some feedback.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204413283.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204413388.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204413421.jpg

that should do the trick.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204416187.jpg

That is exactly what I did. Looks great

I think I'd want to drill some holes in that ala Ruf style :)

Sorry, don't mean to hi-jack, but since I'm doing the same project I didn't think you'd mind. I'm still lubricating the header nuts. What was the size of the nut and what is the size of the allen nut? I just want to make sure that I don't try to fit the wrong size.

Also, did anyone use MAPP gas on them? I thought I might try that as well. Any tips on the gas?

Wish me luck I don't break something.....

No need to apologize, Bill. If you search under other related posts you'll see that most of them advise using liberal amounts of PB Blaster- soak the bolts/header nuts every day for about a week before you even try to remove them. Some folks jam saturated cotton balls or rags up there to enhance the soaking. Once they've had a week of soaking tighten the nuts first to break the rust- sometimes you'll hear a squeak. Be careful not to use a breaker bar or persuader when removing. If you get a lot of resistance when removing the nuts turn them a few turns per day, squirting them with PB Blaster in between days. I know this sounds rediculous but take your time; it's a real pain in the a$$ if one of the studs breaks. On my car I think a p.o. must have swapped out an exhaust at one point because the nuts came out pretty easily- some studs came out as well which I replaced with new. If you're removing stock heat exchangers the allen bolt extention tool sold by Pelican is very helpful. The nut size is 13mm and the allen nut size is 8mm. I have or can take pics of the install sequence if you need them- the only difference being your system is a dual outlet muffler and mine is single. Here's a pic of the header nut tool:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1204588428.jpg


Good luck and let us know how it turns out. -Jay

Thanks Jay. I've been using that Kroil as a lube for now. I'll keep that in mind not using a cheater bar. I know if it doesn't want to go that's what I'd grab for. I'll have to get one of those allen extension tools.

Yeah the tool is pretty much necessary as far as I know. I was bummed when my allen head socket w/extension was too big to fit through the hole in the heat exchanger.

I cut a long arm key and put it into a socket.

After snapping a stud off I gave up and used a nut splitter. I wish I had thought of this first. No more broken studs 100% success rate, unlike trying to undo them.

I have a nut splitter tool, but I don't see how it would fit up there around the barrel nuts. You got it in there? What splitter do you have maybe I'll pick one up like yours. I know, they work wonders on stuff like this.

The factory muffler bracket for a standard 911 is supposed to fit... I cut my turbo bracket and bent it to fit.. I bought the 911 bracket and will fit it the next time I drop my GHL muffler.

Ok I've loosened three barrel nuts on the PS. That belive it or not was easy. I don't think I could have done it without MAPP Gas. I honestly believe it made a HUGE difference. But I've been having a problem getting the regular nuts. I can heat them like the barrel nuts it's just getting something on them square. I've tried a bunch of different combos on them. Any tips or tricks that may help?

Also, what happens if something strips out? Is there a good way to grab these nuts or force something in there to make a good grip? I haven't run into this yet but just curious if I do I can keep going without a post.

Thanks again Jay for sharing your thread....... SmileWavy

My pleasure to share Bill- hopefully others will come along and read this later and get the help they need. I picked up a set of metric closed end, offset head wrenches from Sears- this gave me the leverage and grip I needed. I also was able to use a swivel head ratchet (I may be butchering the name) for some of the odd angles. I've also heard of folks using ratcheting box wrenches- but they are pretty expensive. I would keep hitting them with the mapp gas. Sears also has devices for removing damaged or stripped bolts if it gets to that- not sure if those would help. I've read more than once where people have had good luck with nut splitters. I was fortunate where it wasn't necessary. Hopefully someone who has used a nut splitter can provide a picture as it sounds like you were wondering how one would fit- and the one I have is too big for that job.

I just bought a set from my local hardware store. One of them did the job great. Of course they do wear out but they are only cheap.

If you want to undo a nut that has been damaged then Irwin make a great set of special sockets that cut in to a nut.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/17610/Automotive/Mechanics-Tools/Nut-Splitters#
http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/01/p1163601_x.jpg

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/96028/Automotive/Sockets-Hex/Irwin-5-Piece-Bolt-Grip-Nut-Remover-Set#
http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/41/p2608741_x.jpg