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Quote:
Originally Posted by les_garten View Post
Hi,
Sounds like you are coming back apart possibly. The PP and Flywheel bolts can only be torqued once. If you've ever seen what can happen when these things let go, you would never re-use them. I'm talking death here. Flywheels can fly a block or two if that gives you an idea. I saw a house after the Flywheel exited the bell housing, hood and garage roof and was found about 100 yards away.
Les, I'll agree with you on the flywheel bolts, but with all due respect the PP bolts don't neccessarily stretch like a traditional bolt as they are basically pulling against a giant spring ( the pressure plate). At least that's what I've been told and it seems to make sense to me.

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"Todd"
98 Tahoe ,2007 Saturn Vue
86 930 black and stock, 80 930 blue tracdog
91 Spec Miata (yeah I race a chick car)
"life"ll kill ya" Warren Zevon
Old 03-10-2008, 09:23 PM
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OK - now we are getting somewhere. I've been back underneath and fiddled with the fork lever. It feels odd - lumpy and catching in a place or two. Not right. So, now I know what I'm looking for - altho I'm still not sure how to line it up right. I mated the two flats on the fork to the flats on the lugs on the TOB.
Is there some way I'm supposed to line the pressure plate up. Can't really see that - there is no give in the bolt holes.
But I'll pull the engine again.
AND while I'm in there - change the pp bolts.
If anyone has any tips about how to line this dam fork up, I'd like to know. I'm going to have a good look at it before I split it.
Thanks
Alan
Old 03-10-2008, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9dreizig View Post
Les, I'll agree with you on the flywheel bolts, but with all due respect the PP bolts don't neccessarily stretch like a traditional bolt as they are basically pulling against a giant spring ( the pressure plate). At least that's what I've been told and it seems to make sense to me.
Hi,
No problem, to each his own. Just one of those things you pick up along the way. It's mainly the ability of the bolt to withstand shear, and not a stretch issue. Fresh bolts that have only been torqued and have not been subjected to shear may be able to be re-used. A personal call. If you google "reuse Pressure plate bolts" you'll see a plethora of entries mentioning never re-using either PP or Flywheel bolts. He is using the same bolts from whenever, original?? Those bolts have been subjected to shear along the vector of when they were installed. Now they've been removed and reoriented with shear in another direction. There is no way I would re-use those bolts though. He'll probably be OK though. But hate to see $20,000 worth of damage done for the sake of $10 worth of bolts. If I were pulling apart a 911 to examine his clutch, I would definitely drop "New" Grade 8 boltz in there.
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---Les Garten---85 930, Andial IC, GHL Headers, Fabspeed Dual, K-27 HF2, 3.4 JE Full Finned 7.5:1 CR, 964 CAM'd, Carerra 3.2 Manifold Cut/Flipped, Tec3r, Siemans 55#, GSF Fuel Rails, Clewett Crank Trigger, Clewett Cam Trigger,Dual Plugged, ARP Head Studs/Rod Bolts, Clewett Wires.Tial 46mm WG, Tial 50mm BOV, WEVO Shifter,934 Boost Gauge, Wideband EGO Sensor/Gauge, C2T Head Gaskets, '88 MB 300TE,BMW R100RT
Old 03-10-2008, 11:31 PM
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OK - I get the point. This car is going on the track. Spending most of its time at 4-6000 rpm.
I'll be buying $20 worth of grade 8 pp bolts.
Thanks for the tip - because I would not have considered it.
Alan
Old 03-11-2008, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan L View Post
OK - I get the point. This car is going on the track. Spending most of its time at 4-6000 rpm.
I'll be buying $20 worth of grade 8 pp bolts.
Thanks for the tip - because I would not have considered it.
Alan
No Problemmo
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Old 03-11-2008, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan L View Post
OK - now we are getting somewhere. I've been back underneath and fiddled with the fork lever. It feels odd - lumpy and catching in a place or two. Not right. So, now I know what I'm looking for - altho I'm still not sure how to line it up right. I mated the two flats on the fork to the flats on the lugs on the TOB.
Is there some way I'm supposed to line the pressure plate up. Can't really see that - there is no give in the bolt holes.
But I'll pull the engine again.
AND while I'm in there - change the pp bolts.
If anyone has any tips about how to line this dam fork up, I'd like to know. I'm going to have a good look at it before I split it.
Thanks
Alan
Alan, I can tell you from experience that it's a bear trying to do it just from the access hole. Before you split the case I'd suggest you pull the starter, the visibility is much better from that side, you may be able to align it from there.
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98 Tahoe ,2007 Saturn Vue
86 930 black and stock, 80 930 blue tracdog
91 Spec Miata (yeah I race a chick car)
"life"ll kill ya" Warren Zevon
Old 03-11-2008, 08:20 AM
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I planned on splitting the trans from the engine and starting again.
But still not sure how I'm supposed to line it up better than now. But will have a close look at it as I split it and try and find out what has gone wrong. Maybe something moved as I bolted it up.
Thanks for the suggestions folks - I suspect we are on to it.
Alan
Old 03-11-2008, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan L View Post
OK - I get the point. This car is going on the track. Spending most of its time at 4-6000 rpm.
I'll be buying $20 worth of grade 8 pp bolts.
Thanks for the tip - because I would not have considered it.
Alan
Hmm...flywheel bolts are much closer to the centrum and thus subjected to much higher shear force due to lever principle. They are also 12.9 grade.

Of corse, it's better to be safe than sorry but if Porsche put 8.8 grade bolts there, it cannot be so critical.
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Old 03-11-2008, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan L View Post
OK - now we are getting somewhere. I've been back underneath and fiddled with the fork lever. It feels odd - lumpy and catching in a place or two. Not right. So, now I know what I'm looking for - altho I'm still not sure how to line it up right. I mated the two flats on the fork to the flats on the lugs on the TOB.
Is there some way I'm supposed to line the pressure plate up. Can't really see that - there is no give in the bolt holes.
But I'll pull the engine again.
AND while I'm in there - change the pp bolts.
If anyone has any tips about how to line this dam fork up, I'd like to know. I'm going to have a good look at it before I split it.
Thanks
Alan

Follow 9dreizig’s advice and remove the starter motor.
Set the TOB stubs at 12/6 o’clock. Rotate the fork out of the transaxle, pointing toward the pressure plate. Feed the main shaft into the clutch and simultaneously rotate the fork using the clutch arm to guide it to enter behind the TOB stubs, in front of the pressure plate fingers. Continue to feed the transaxle assembly into the clutch and at the same change the angle of entry of the fork using the clutch arm shaft so that the fork freely feeds between the pressure plate fingers and the TOB stubs.
Once the transaxle housing is fully mated with the engine case, the TOB stubs should rest clear and free in the notches in the fork with approximately 6mm free clearance when the fork is rotated toward the pressure plate fingers. If the fork seems to hang on the TOB stubs, the fork is not properly located/set. Back the transaxle out a bit, try the dance again.
Keep in mind, the fork/clutch arm assembly is full of vertical play. You may need to push the clutch arm up at the same time you are feeding the fork behind the TOB stubs to get the fork where it belongs. When you get things close, it can help to insert a pry bar or large screwdriver into the inspection hole on top of the transaxle and tweak either or both the fork and TOB. Sometimes they need a little “persuasion” to behave. Cussing has been known to help too.
Don’t know how you are supporting the engine and transaxle while attempting this task. I find it beneficial to suspend the transaxle using tie-down straps wrapped around the case then attached to a cherry picker, a fork lift arm, a hoist, anything to eliminate having to physically hold the transaxle up. If the engine is high enough, a jack works well too. Get the suspended transaxle balanced and the mating task will be greatly reduced.
Old 03-11-2008, 10:10 PM
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You guys rock. Pulled the engine - that is precisely what the problem was. I should have checked again before installing. The lugs must have unseated slightly in the tightening process - they were off the forks completely. They look good now. It almost seems it fits better with them rotated 180 deg from where I had it.
To make it easy to mate them up again, I had the tranny supported by a pallet jack, and the engine on my trolley jack. I split them this way - so the heights were all OK. Slipped back in so quick it was hard to believe - right up to the last 1/8 inch or so.
Now we are cooking. Trap for yourg 930 players. But not again.
Thanks
Alan
Old 03-11-2008, 11:12 PM
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:24 AM
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