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wcc wcc is offline
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heat exchanger barrel nut stripped

Any ideas on how to remove the barrel nut if the allen part is stripped out? I ended up having two of these. One of the barrel nuts started to turn before it stripped out but it didn't quite make it. Of course they are both on the DS and much harder to get to. Big surprise. A friend (Oh Haha user name on PP) is coming over on Saturday and we are going to try using a 9mm instead for enough grip. We'll find out if it works or not. But I'm open to other suggestions. It would be nice to have a few options on what to try to remove these things.
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:19 PM
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OFF THE BOOST PIPE NOW...
 
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You gotta think outside the box with all your tools. Can you get a chisel to it and back it off? Can you fit a tight socket over it, hammer it down and back it off? Can you cut it off with or without the stud?

Any pics of the offending nuts?
Old 03-12-2008, 06:08 PM
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I used a drill with a bit the same diameter as the stud threads. Haven't replaced the stud yet, but I plan to first try removing it with conventional methods (stud remover, heat, etc). If that fails, then I will buy that device that a pelican made and sells for drilling out broken studs.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:02 PM
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use a dremel tool best bet cut at an angle on the barrel .good luck i'm at a stand still because i broke a screw extractor in one
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:23 PM
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wcc wcc is offline
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Thanks everyone. I thought about the chisel. Getting a socket on there is a pretty good idea. I may try that as a next step before tearing it all up with a chisel or drilling. I would like to keep that as a last resort. How about welding a piece of threaded rod in the hole? Anyone tried that?

angelny911 - I have had the worst luck with screw extractors doing exactly what you said. So I don't use them anymore.
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:04 AM
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Wer bremst verliert
 
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Soak it with pb blaster for the next few days. Then weld it to a long, wasted rod or better yet the allen tool that stripped it. The heat from the weld should get it out.
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Old 03-13-2008, 03:23 AM
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Nut

The socket over the nut is a good idea, but before you try that, heat it up and let it cool a couple of times (propane/mapp gas) then the last time, heat up again slip the socket over while hot and try to loosen. I've had a bunch of these, and heat always worked for me.
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Old 03-13-2008, 04:46 AM
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try 12 point allen socket.the type used for c-v joint bolts...heat up nut also
Old 03-13-2008, 05:29 AM
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wcc wcc is offline
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I got one of them today and another regular nut. I ended up using the 8mm allen and welded a couple of weld blobs on it. Then I ground them down to give them a sharp point. I then heated the nut SUPER hot and hammered the allen wrench in the hole. This was a long and drawn out process but it sounds easy in the text. Anyways, I got one of the two. I'll try the other one tomorrow. Then all I'm left with is the 3 regular 13mm nuts on the DS.

The weld blobs are too big for the other nut so I'll have to grind it down so I can hammer it in. Then add weld as it rounds out. Hopefully not and I get it on the first try. Yeah right.....
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Old 03-13-2008, 02:28 PM
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I got the last barrel nut tonight! I'm down to 3 regular 13mm nuts on the DS. The nut splitter doesn't seem to fit in there like on the PS. But when I remove the pipes, wastegate, and turbo it might make a little more room and I'll try again.

Any tips or tricks on the last three of these nuts? Will the nut splitter fit in there after the pipes are removed?
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Old 03-13-2008, 04:26 PM
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we have an old 14" long screw driver with the end sharpened like a chisel we use to split those nuts..don' throw away you old tools use them for some thing else
Old 03-14-2008, 04:25 AM
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Garage
I find these very useful. Irwin makes them.

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Old 03-15-2008, 07:21 AM
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