No Start, No Run, dilema
 

Was running badly when I pressed into the pedal, anything over about 3000rpm, would bog & pop. I thought the intake nuts were loose under the intake tubes feeding the Turbo. It happened before, just unusual popping mostly, when air was getting sucked in from the passenger side nuts not being tight.
So I pull off intercooler & BOV housing, change out deteriorated spacer of the BOV, tightened the nuts, about 2 lightly loose, put it all together, no start.
It will initially fire & make a few rotations, but not long, then shut down. I thought it was a fueling problem, checked fuel up to CIS, flowed fine. Will act like it wants to start, wait, after about 30 secs. fire for a little bit then die, if you immediately try to start again, nothing at all ...Help!

It really sounds like you have a intake leak still. The bog and pop is normally form a lean condtion. Try this, pull the airfilter housing and feed the fuel plate while someone starts it. If it holds idle when you are pushing the plate down and feeding fuel (rpms will be high) there there is a leak somewhere in the system.

I did wedge the plate open, no go. I will try again as you say, with someone at the ignition & me holding the plate down. I dont see where it could be leaking. The only other thing I had changed recently was my WUR, went with the Leask.
The popping may have been cured by tightening the nuts. Its the no start that has me scratching my head.

Idea's? Anyone?

Got it started. Got the popping & cycling at idle. Guess I am still looking for that pesky vaccum leak! Been using carb cleaner but cant seem to locate!

Could the lean condition be an out of adjustment CIS? I have found no vaccum leaks.

Have you checked your fuel pressure readings? Are you sure it is lean? Cycling idle is one indicator of a rich condition (at idle).
What is the correlation between the time you swapped the WUR and your current troubles? Were you able to dial in the proper AFRs throughout the range?

You removed the intercooler. Could you have damaged or pinched the O-rings on the intercooler neck or the throttle body? Check them and add a bit of lube before assembly.

I am thinking, the CIS was adjusted to compensate for a small leak. Some things have revealed themselves over the past months. Intake bolts loose, I found the elbow on the Turbo had a loose clamp too. My boost pressure has not been as I have experienced. Was only hitting .6 when I used to see .8. As I had it all apart, I checked for leaks in the air flow, I believe I have them to a minimum.
Now I just am running rough with the popping as I hold acceleration, I have not driven the car since this problem.
Also tryed to adjust the CIS, but it seems the allen wrench would not engage to adjust. Held the spring plunger down & turned till it stopped, the wrench would not catch.
The Idle does not seem to make much difference when adjusted, only at the extremes will it slow down or speed up..........perplexed.........

Did you re-check the intercoler/throttle O-rings?
It sounds like you still have a leak. Adjustment will not react properly and will throw off your settings as you stated.

Brian,
Yes, O-ring new on I/T connection. I think the system is tight, unless the air intake gaskets to the head are bad, these were new, fresh top end last year.
If the motor was tuned compensating for air getting in, when the system is sealed, would this not lead to a lean running condition & therefore what I have?
I went nuts with the Carb cleaner, & I found no area sprayed that made the car run smoother.

Yes, I would expect that adjusting the CIS to compensate for a vac leak would lead to a lean condition once the leak is fixed.

Do you have a Gunson Gas Tester? You need some way to know where you are now.
How far did you turn the idle mixture screw on the fuel head to compensate for the leak? The typical range of adjustment is very fine, say less than 1/2 turn or 180 degrees.
Adjustments should be made from lean to rich and then back off.

I would have thought repairing an air leak after the CIS measuring plate would then cause the car to run too rich? No?

Noticed, that when I adjust idle speed, little to nothing happens. Symptom of?

So, entering more air into the cylinders doesn't make the engine run faster? Must need more fuel, in other words you are running too lean.

Either that or too much air is already bypassing the throttle plate.

Next step, I will check my Plugs & wires to make sure these are not causing a miss. If all is well then, I will check my CO2 levels, if I can find someone with an analyzer.

Do yourself a favour and get an Innovate AFR setup. I have an XD-16 kit.