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Join Date: May 2008
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76 930 no start

1976 930 , not starting , , checked fuel pumps , all work , it just cranks but will not fire up. played with fuses and pump relays and it started. next day no start again . i did pump the gas pedal and it started , any idea's , next day no start, note: new wires, cap ,rotor and spark plugs , could it be a fuel problem , i can push down on the cis plate and fuel pumps come on , can i check for spark my removing the plugs and then turning the engine over . looking for help , thank you jim
Old 05-06-2008, 07:49 PM
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Hmm, i'm having a similar issue, the girl is at the shop trying to trace. Check the fuel accumulator - it's the olive green canister looking thing to the front of the engine compartment on the drivers side.

My issue started like this, then i replaced the accumulator and it went away on the cold starts. Now when my engine gets hot it acts almost like a vaporlock situation and won't start. My mech told me to turn key (don't start, but turn all the way) on off about three or four times which will "prime" the system, and the car will start - it worked for me.

Now I think we have it narrowed down to the fuel distributor - one expensive part to replace...

Hope this helps...
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Infraredcalvin - AKA Pat
'76 Turbo Carrera #311 - Factory LSD, Sport Seats
'75 914 GT clone project
'74 914 track basket-case
Old 05-06-2008, 09:05 PM
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Check the checkvalve in the front fuel pump. Fit one if there isn't one.
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

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Old 05-07-2008, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by infraredcalvin View Post
Hmm, i'm having a similar issue, the girl is at the shop trying to trace. Check the fuel accumulator - it's the olive green canister looking thing to the front of the engine compartment on the drivers side.

My issue started like this, then i replaced the accumulator and it went away on the cold starts. Now when my engine gets hot it acts almost like a vaporlock situation and won't start. My mech told me to turn key (don't start, but turn all the way) on off about three or four times which will "prime" the system, and the car will start - it worked for me.

Now I think we have it narrowed down to the fuel distributor - one expensive part to replace...

Hope this helps...
thank you , i been having the same problem you have with hot starting , after running the car hot , it will not start, let it cool down for around 1 hour and it starts. but it will not start cold , still checking a few items , lsometimes i could play with the fuel pump relays and fuse blocks and it would start but hot no way . i did put a check valve in for the fuel pumps which keeps the fuel in the line . hope to have it runing this week , please keep me up to date on your car , it seems like same problem , thank you best reguards jim
Old 05-07-2008, 08:15 PM
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sounds like we do have similar issues: i was just in process writing a detailed desciption of what was wrong with mine and what i checked, but stupid laptop lost my work... long story.

Anyway these are some of the items i've replaced that have helped but not fully solved my problems:

1. cracked fuel return/pressure/overflow hose in front drivers side wheel well
2. various intake leaks at turbo and piping to intake manifold
3. bad front fuel pump
4. bad fuel accumulator
5. removal of decel/anit backfire valve and plug hoses (t his was an intake leak and was spitting oil all over the top of my engine)
6. leaky coil

my mech is finally down to the fuel distributor. found that fuel system is losing pressure when hot due to leak at the distributor. this is a 2K+ part, so trying to exhaust all other possibilities.

i'm currently running black fuse relays, some people here do either the black or red. i'm going to try ordering the reds when i get my car back see how it does.

our biggest problem is the age of our cars, things are just "worn out" as my mech says. he's now got my car running AWESOME - i never realized how much all this little stuff was starving my car, but just cant seem to nail down the hot start issue without replacing those expensive parts.

i'm picking up my car tomorrow and headed straight to Santa Barbara tomorrow so i wont be able to follw up with you until next week.

hope some of my ramblings help, they're sure costing me an arm and a leg... i hate paying a mech to troubleshoot issues, i just dont have the time... good luck!
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Infraredcalvin - AKA Pat
'76 Turbo Carrera #311 - Factory LSD, Sport Seats
'75 914 GT clone project
'74 914 track basket-case
Old 05-07-2008, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infraredcalvin View Post
sounds like we do have similar issues: i was just in process writing a detailed desciption of what was wrong with mine and what i checked, but stupid laptop lost my work... long story.

Anyway these are some of the items i've replaced that have helped but not fully solved my problems:

1. cracked fuel return/pressure/overflow hose in front drivers side wheel well
2. various intake leaks at turbo and piping to intake manifold
3. bad front fuel pump
4. bad fuel accumulator
5. removal of decel/anit backfire valve and plug hoses (t his was an intake leak and was spitting oil all over the top of my engine)
6. leaky coil

my mech is finally down to the fuel distributor. found that fuel system is losing pressure when hot due to leak at the distributor. this is a 2K+ part, so trying to exhaust all other possibilities.

i'm currently running black fuse relays, some people here do either the black or red. i'm going to try ordering the reds when i get my car back see how it does.

our biggest problem is the age of our cars, things are just "worn out" as my mech says. he's now got my car running AWESOME - i never realized how much all this little stuff was starving my car, but just cant seem to nail down the hot start issue without replacing those expensive parts.

i'm picking up my car tomorrow and headed straight to Santa Barbara tomorrow so i wont be able to follw up with you until next week.

hope some of my ramblings help, they're sure costing me an arm and a leg... i hate paying a mech to troubleshoot issues, i just dont have the time... good luck!
thnak you . i will check you list out , i can here the boost pump come on , but have to check the front one , i think there is a boost pump in front and rear , if i push the metering plate down i can hear the pump come on . the car did have a problem with starting hot , you could run it for hours , shot it down and no start , it would take 2 hrs before it would start , known it will not start cold , just cranks . how much for accumulator , maybe that's the problem , i did check the chk valve on the front pumps years ago's it was good , need to check again , thank you please keep it comimg the infor , thank you jim from downey . if you ever want to talk , please call my cell 310-420-5769 , thank you sir , best reguards.
Old 05-12-2008, 07:04 PM
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Hey Jim / Calvin-

I have been experiencing some of the same issues as youses with my '87. It seems to have worsened since I got the car last fall.

My cold start is money, fires right up like nothing. It's the hot start that's a beoch. Even after sitting 10 minutes. PO had a primer switch installed which used to seem to help but now doesn't affect anything.

Nathan here and others have suggested it's the accumulator. I've not yet pursued. Is that DIY for the barely shadetree'er? $$$ part (dare I ask?)???

TIP: What I HAVE found to be effective though... *bury* the throttle to the floor before you crank, then stab it violently after it's kicked over for a second or two. Mine catches on like one cylinder and I have to gingerly catch the rev with the throttle to get it to run, then feather through the misfire until it's running on two, three, then finally fourfivesix. Sometimes it takes more cranking than others but it usually fires right up. I was happy to figure out a secret handshake certainly, was getting frustrating to say the least.

I'm not complaining. If this is my biggest PITA and ^that's^ all I gotta do to get around it w/o having to toss greenbacks at it - I'm fine w/ that! 8-).

HTH, good luck, report back.
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Old 05-13-2008, 05:07 AM
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Update!!!

I hoped to report some better news but here's the latest... FYI - once warmed up and on the road, my car is a rocket - I'm one of the crazy few that installed a 1 bar spring with no intercooler - it's fun, but one of these days... BOOM!

Anyway, took the car to Santa Barbara last weekend. it was nice and cool, had to park outside while up there though - not fun for the cold start... I've removed the decel valve - ever since the 1st start in the morn is a little tough, fires instantly, but will die out, I use the throttle lever to get it going, after about 2 starts, and some coughing, it runs like a champ. Cruising temp stays right around the 210 tick, but if it's hot, and or i'm mashing the pedal, it'll push to the 250 mark pretty quick.

I typically only have the issue if the car is at or above 250 when I shut it down. If I try to start up within about 1/2 hour of shutting down, it fires right up, sometimes on less than 6, but it sputters for only about 5-10 secs, then it's fine. If its shut down for 45 min or more, it does not want to fire at all. Cranks, but no fuel (or not enough fuel) to start. If I do the on/off trick stated in an earlier post, it will fire on less than 6 and sputter its way to a regular idle after 15 to 20 secs. I'll try the gas trick suggested by krasuskyp.

I think i'm gonna deal with it for now, see if changes or remains a problem.

Krasuskyp - after the fuses/relays/fuel pump the accumulator seems to be the next choice. it's not real hard to install, just a little awkward reaching. Our host has the part here for under $250, but be sure to check the relays (including the yellow in the engine compartment) before going this route. The 76 cars don't have the yellow relay, it's my understanding this is one of the solutions for similar issues. There seems to be a lot of threads for the later cars on this issue, but not much info on the 76 cars. Good Luck!

Jim - sorry i couldn't report any good news. It's really nice to see some info on the 1st of the 930 line - some sick part of me can't get over the smooth lines of the real whaletail, even though you can't fit an off the shelf intercooler in them. Next project will be brake upgrades (when I get some $$$) then custom intercooler (if I don't blow my engine first). Would be cool to hook up sometime, talk shop...

Pat
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Infraredcalvin - AKA Pat
'76 Turbo Carrera #311 - Factory LSD, Sport Seats
'75 914 GT clone project
'74 914 track basket-case
Old 05-13-2008, 10:25 PM
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