$3,500 should get a set of Mahle 7.5 P&Cs - that is what they cost me -

SC heads - with everything else equal and optimized for CIS - should bring another 15-20 HP.
I think it's a smart idea because they aren't expensive, and the cost is recouped via the sale of the 930 heads.

It ends up a wash $-wise, and you essentially get something for nothing - no extra cost -

None. They will add a signifcant amount of power to a stock engine though.
These questions don't make sense to me. Are you rebuilding a 400HP engine? If so nothing needs changed to make 400HP 'cause that's where you started. If that is not where you started and you just want 400HP you will be wasting money on P/C sense stock P/C will support 400HP. If you have P/C damage just fix the ones affected.
If you are simply looking for reliability and no repeat of the engine knock then you are on the right track with the studs, rod bolts and springs.
These builds can get out of control in a hurry.

Fair comment. My engine is stock. When it goes back in the car it will have headers, K27HFS, big intercooler and correct CIS tuning = 400hp.

With your help I am deciding on what else to do while I am in there. The ARP stuff is a given but if I can change a few more parts and end up with more power for a reasonable cost I would do it. This is why I am asking about the P&C sets and the SC heads.

Update - forgot that I have SC cams.

I don't think that combo will yield 400 HP??? Those are just bolt-ons. I thought that combo was good for like 330 or so??? Don't you have to do cams and heads to get to the magic 400?

[/QUOTE]Shuffle pin on a 930 engine = waste of money -[/QUOTE]
This = shifting cases and oil leaks on cars that make horsepower...

Ah, thank's for the clarification.

Cams, head work, big turbo, 1.0bar, big intercooler, proper AFRs and tuning = 400WHP.
Headers are not manditory but do help and make for improved driveability. If you don't use aftermarket headers you do need to have Euro/post '86 US heat exchangers.
There are a lot of ways to get 400WHP this is probably the least expensive.

Brian, you are pretty experienced with these setups... what kind of horsepower could one expect with a stock motor, better headers, bigger turbo and a big intercooler with a 1.0bar spring?

I ain't Brian, but -
Uh.........melted pistons and broken ring lands?

You better have adequate and ACCURATE fuel.

Craig, interesting thought. Why would you expect broken ring lands and melted pistons with a bigger intercooler, bigger turbo and 1 bar spring???

Because on a stock engine you will not have enough fuel to support 1 bar of boost

Umm... not sure what you are talking about Craig. There are many folks running a 1.0 bar spring and not melting their motors. The way I understood it was that you could not go to 1.0 bar with confidence unless you put a bigger, more efficient intercooler in also. I am certainly surprised by your response... that is totally news to me.

Umm...

Maybe the tone you've employed would work if you had more experience to dispense such advice as given on this thread.

To assist the original poster of this thread:
You will need more fuel - or at a MINIMUM check AFRs to see if fuel is adequate.
I am at 1 bar AND have the IA fuel head AND the adjustable WUR - and I have juuust enough fuel.

Good luck on a "stock motor"

Thank goodness we have you around to provide inarticulate responses to legitimate questions. Seems to be a common occurance with your posts.

Stock Motor = stock cams, heads
Better Headers = B&B/GHL/SSI/etc
Bigger Turbo = wild card as there are lots, lets say an appropriate K27S (stock heads & cam)
Bigger Intercooler = B&B/B6/Kokeln/etc
1.0bar Spring

This is pretty much what I have on my engine now. (I also have SC cams but no headers) I currently run 0.7bar boost because this is a baseline engine for my muffler testing. When I ran 1.0 bar it put out about 340WHP. You can expect abou that.

In a lower output engine like mine and the one you describe you can safely run 1.0bar boost with a good stock WUR or an adjustable WUR. My A/F numbers were spot-on. On a high output CIS engine such as Craig's you will need fuel system modification and/or adjustment to get the proper AFR throughout the operating range. ALWAYS verify your AFRs when adding boost. A bad/old/worn-out WUR can hurt your expensive engine in a hurry. At best a bad WUR will rob you of power and mileage.

Thanks Brian. That's what I was looking for. With the Euro CIS I think I can support the additional fueling required with the stock CIS pieces but will verify on a dyno with AFR data logging before I go too crazy :)

Euro fuel lines and head could afford you some decent fuel. I beat the holy $hit out of my CIS motor (B&Bs, k-27 7200, Kokeln, 1 bar spring, boost controller) and just had the stock stuff on there. Granted I had the system dumping huge amounts of fuel and had zero electronics on it, It really kicked a$$ at 18 psi. I ran the car for 30k miles or so like this. But when it comes to CIS, everyone's luck is diffrent if they are not on top of it.

Exactly. AFRs are absolute king.
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Mr. Turtle, your assinine comments are unappreciated and out of line with the tone of this forum.

From the PMs I've received about you, I'd say you are about an inch from the 930 forum doghouse there buddy. Take your attitude and shove it.

I would say the rule of thumb is that if you modify anything on your engine you should always verify your AFR's. If you don't you are rolling the dice...

Spend $400 on a XD-16 kit from Innovate. Stephen of IA sells them.

I have an 84 Euro 930 so what would it take to get 400rwhp out of it? I bought the car with the engine in boxes and Im getting ready to send the parts off to JB racing to get them checked out and any machine work needed. Im going to go with upgraded ARP hardware through the engine but other than that it would be mostly stock. I might get the heads worked a little depending on cost. I dont want a time bomb so maybe 400rwhp is not going to be ideal for my car. What kind of inprovments could I expect from a EFI conversion using 3.2induction?

Mike

Same formula as above gives 400WHP, US or Euro. Head work is desired to flow more air without pushing too hard at that level.
There are levels of power vs expense. You can get to ~350WHP without going into the engine, using bolt-on parts alone.
The time bomb depends on you. Driving habbits, tuning, and boost level.