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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFM744 View Post
also have some oil leak in the rear middel of engien

i have not found something that for sure caused the oil leak,
anyone else have had the same leak?
i have cleaned the area around the sensors there was a lot of oil before too.
Hi,
I am also working on my 965 engine this winter. I do have the same leak, I suspect it was the hose connected to the breather (part rubber, part stainless). In my case the part that attach to the breather was very hard almost crack. Hope this helps.........R

Old 01-21-2009, 10:07 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WERK-I View Post
Yes. Because you're changing to a different camshaft grind and/or manufacturer, you will need a tool to measure the offset of the cam sprockets. There is one tool for this that makes it a lot easier and it's from Stomski. It's expensive....surprised?! You can do it with a machined straight edge, but it's annoying for the first timer.

The other tools you might consider are;
spark plug adapter to pressurize the cylinder so you can remove valve springs with a valve spring compressor tool. I'm assuming you are changing springs, retainers and locks for the new cam, yes?

Valve timing you'll need a dial indicator and a Z-block which allows the dial indicator to mount on cam tower with little hassle. Personally, I like to use two dial indicators/z-blocks (one on each bank) for repeatability and sanity.

You'll need a device on each side to keep tension on the cam chains while the cams are being timed. I like the old mechanical adjusters for this, again, expensive. Some use big c-clamp vise grips on the oil-fed tensioners. Others have fab'd their own mechanical adjusters for timing the chains. Once you get the cam covers off, you'll see what has to be done and what route to take.

Other things I can thing of are;
Soft aluminum rod so you can softly tap out the rocker arm shafts from their bores without scoring the cam tower surfaces.
Allen socket and extension to allow you facilitate the removal of rocker arm allen bolts and caps.

Enjoy.
i am mounting 964 cams and no plans to change valve springs and retainers.


what about the RSR seals to the rocker shafts is it someting i should mount?
Old 01-22-2009, 01:53 AM
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I believe the 964 cams have a different spring height requirement than the standard 930 cams. Which will require removing the retainers/locks and addressing the shims.

RSR seals are a mixed bag on this Pelican Board. At worst, it's a harmless addition. At best, it may give you the added insurance of sealing for a minutely eccentric rocker bore. Cleanliness is an absolute in reassembling these pieces. Any minute particle is going to cause the rocker arm to not seal properly. Scrub the bore out with a non-abrasive cylinder brush and note any nicks in the bores. Examine arm shaft ends for burrs and address. Most importantly, make sure the rocker arms are reinserted properly in their bores. Improper placement will allow them to "walk" out and/or leak.
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'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
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Old 01-22-2009, 07:29 AM
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[QUOTE=AFM744;]QUOTE]

you use the 964 cams in your 930 engine, did you need to look over the spring height?

Last edited by spjuvern; 01-22-2009 at 08:12 AM..
Old 01-22-2009, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFM744;

you use the 964 cams in your 930 engine, did you need to look over the spring height?
I did. I set all 12 to 34.5mm at reassembly. I later found in Bruce's book that I only needed to do this to the intakes. But this must be done on the 964 cams or you'll bind the springs.
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X-1, AFM744, Jon, '92 C2 Turbo
JE 8:1 pistons, 964 cams, 38mm intakes ported/polished/twinplugged, ARP hardware, B&B headers/exhaust, 355whp. Full-blown GT35R 3.2 intake EFI pending...
Where my misspent time and money is currently going.
Old 01-22-2009, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paganrj View Post
Hi,
I am also working on my 965 engine this winter. I do have the same leak, I suspect it was the hose connected to the breather (part rubber, part stainless). In my case the part that attach to the breather was very hard almost crack. Hope this helps.........R
I'm trying to figure out how I'm quoted in PAGANRJ's post (quoted here)... but it's actually SPJUVERN's post.
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X-1, AFM744, Jon, '92 C2 Turbo
JE 8:1 pistons, 964 cams, 38mm intakes ported/polished/twinplugged, ARP hardware, B&B headers/exhaust, 355whp. Full-blown GT35R 3.2 intake EFI pending...
Where my misspent time and money is currently going.
Old 01-22-2009, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFM744 View Post
I did. I set all 12 to 34.5mm at reassembly. I later found in Bruce's book that I only needed to do this to the intakes. But this must be done on the 964 cams or you'll bind the springs.

Ok i have Bruce`s book but i haven't had the time to read it, maybe i have to do that

lucky that you guys are here so this assembly will be right

AFM744 how many shims are there now? did you have same shims all of your valve springs after the adjustment?
did you have the have the Porsche tool to measure this?
Old 01-22-2009, 09:12 AM
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could this be done with the cameshaft housing still on the engien?

I have the parts to make valve spring work with the top at the engine, which fit other engines wonder if I can build it on the porsche engine.
Old 01-22-2009, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spjuvern View Post

AFM744 how many shims are there now? did you have same shims all of your valve springs after the adjustment?
did you have the have the Porsche tool to measure this?
I dunno how many shims are there now. Since my valves and seats were cut I simply took ALL my shims, sorted them by thickness, then started setting each spring height on each head. Didn't use any fancy tool other than my trusty old vernier caliper. Obviously this is a case of Not-Perfect-Tool + Common-Sense = Acceptable Results. I built most of my engine that way.
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X-1, AFM744, Jon, '92 C2 Turbo
JE 8:1 pistons, 964 cams, 38mm intakes ported/polished/twinplugged, ARP hardware, B&B headers/exhaust, 355whp. Full-blown GT35R 3.2 intake EFI pending...
Where my misspent time and money is currently going.
Old 01-22-2009, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spjuvern View Post
could this be done with the cameshaft housing still on the engien?
There's a LOT of things you *can* do with the heads still on the engine, heck, with the engine still in the car. Point is, if you booger something up trying to cut that corner it'll be a LOT more work than just pulling and reinstalling the heads.
I know people have successfully removed the retainers and changed springs by pressurizing the cylinder to hold the valve shut. But DAMN, if that seal breaks while you're trying to compress the valve spring the valve will go slamming into the piston. A decent valve spring compressor was the best $60 I ever spent when I had to reassemble my heads. It turned a sweaty, wobbling, cursing tool-through-finger job into a relaxing experience shared with my son.
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X-1, AFM744, Jon, '92 C2 Turbo
JE 8:1 pistons, 964 cams, 38mm intakes ported/polished/twinplugged, ARP hardware, B&B headers/exhaust, 355whp. Full-blown GT35R 3.2 intake EFI pending...
Where my misspent time and money is currently going.
Old 01-22-2009, 09:27 AM
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Our host sells the tool listed here...
valve height measurement tool

Maybe someone has one they can loan/rent to you.
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'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 01-22-2009, 09:36 AM
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tomorrow i taking of the heads

i am starting to think about " all when I'm in there " things i want to do

how about the head studs they are a weak point at this engien i have heard,
should i replace them when I'm in there? ARP? do i nead to loosen the cylinders to get them of?

what about the heads i supose i want to do the inlets bigger, i have heard it is very good on our engiens

this was mean to be a short projekt not to rebuild entrie engien,
the engien have 2% leakdown so it is in good condition.
Old 01-23-2009, 07:21 AM
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spjuvern,
The head studs are certainly a good place to start. The early dilavar studs were prone to snapping. I recommend the 993 TwinTurbo head studs over all others, but after looking at the prices for these things, I can't believe how much they have gone up! If you can find the 993 TT studs for the same price as the ARP studs, I would pick the 993TT studs, imho.
I would also replace the rod bolts with a set of ARP's, while you're in there. These two areas (head studs and rod bolts) will give you piece of mind.
Of course, if you're replacing rod bolts, you might as well replace the rod and main bearings too. Feeling that slippery slope under your feet yet?
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'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 01-23-2009, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFM744 View Post
There's a LOT of things you *can* do with the heads still on the engine, heck, with the engine still in the car. Point is, if you booger something up trying to cut that corner it'll be a LOT more work than just pulling and reinstalling the heads.
I know people have successfully removed the retainers and changed springs by pressurizing the cylinder to hold the valve shut. But DAMN, if that seal breaks while you're trying to compress the valve spring the valve will go slamming into the piston. A decent valve spring compressor was the best $60 I ever spent when I had to reassemble my heads. It turned a sweaty, wobbling, cursing tool-through-finger job into a relaxing experience shared with my son.
I have this head off the engine large, sturdy C - clamp type valve spring compressor from Sears and it works great... and it's only $20. I'm sure they would let you return it if you were inclined too.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947627000P?vName=Automotive&cName=Tools+%26+Equipment&sName=Automotive+Specialty+Tools
I called and they had them at the local sears.

The valve spring compressors that do it with the head on the car can easily overcompress the spring.
Some are like a lever that hooks onto something solid on the head like a camshaft, and some designs grab the spring coils with claws and should be avoided on a porsche. They grab and squeeze the spring unevenly and afterwards the spring is bent, crooked, and only good for a low reving tractor or lawnmower engine after that.

Filling the combustion chamber with compressed air keeps the valve from sliding in from gravity after you remove the keepers. The valve won't go "slamming" in and hit the piston when you remove the keepers if the air pressure seal holding the valve seated and closed is breached.
The exhaust valve won't go anywhere because it's pointed downward obviously, only the intake would possibly slide in because of gravity.
Old 01-23-2009, 11:38 AM
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i have a the valve large C clamp tool so that is not a problem

i have all the tools to in my shop to rebuild ordinary engines but the Porsche engine need some special tool all the time because its different design.

i still thinking if i really should lift of the heads,

i mean then i want to machine the valves, enlarge the inlets, change the head studs, maybe the rod studs, and when I'm in there rod and main bearings ( i have never opened any engine without do that) so i see the money fly away...

i thought this cam operation would be a easy modification and take no time...


could anyone explain how much the benefit are of the large inlets like AFM744 have done

Last edited by spjuvern; 01-23-2009 at 03:18 PM..
Old 01-23-2009, 03:03 PM
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i am on my way in







i found this



so now i need new valve springs also
Old 01-26-2009, 03:42 AM
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At least you need one valve spring! Is it exhaust or intake? What cylinder? It looks like #1 intake...

Mark
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Old 01-26-2009, 08:36 AM
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Time for some quality Aase springs -
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Old 01-26-2009, 08:43 AM
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yes one intake

what brand do you recomend
Old 01-26-2009, 10:01 AM
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The AASCO springs require you to modify your spring seats. Our host sells a spring set that will drop right into your head - 901-105-901-50-M260. At $15.25 for each set, you can't beat it (if you have a 1965-89 911).

Most of the other aftermarket valve springs require you to buy the entire set. You mentioned earlier that you do not plan on changing springs. I agree, stock springs are pretty good.

Mark
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:26 AM
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