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i am planing to changing all the all the spring, are there some sets all springs and retainers?

in Bruce's book it says you may what to change springs to better ones with this cams
so when one is broken it feels like the time is to change all to better ones
Old 01-26-2009, 11:54 AM
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more thoughts

how bad is the original rod bolts? what make them broke Hp or hi mileage?

how about Oring the heads and cylinders i have heard that is required for boost over 1 bar is that i good idea to do
Old 01-26-2009, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spjuvern View Post
more thoughts

how bad is the original rod bolts? what make them broke Hp or hi mileage?

how about Oring the heads and cylinders i have heard that is required for boost over 1 bar is that i good idea to do
Stock rod bolts are one of the few weakpoints of our engine, and cheap compared to many other mods (or the cost of failure). Just one less thing for me to be thinking about when my tach needle goes past 6k.
I believe Bruce's head/cylinder sealing modification does not apply to M30/69 motor with stainless gaskets.
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X-1, AFM744, Jon, '92 C2 Turbo
JE 8:1 pistons, 964 cams, 38mm intakes ported/polished/twinplugged, ARP hardware, B&B headers/exhaust, 355whp. Full-blown GT35R 3.2 intake EFI pending...
Where my misspent time and money is currently going.
Old 01-26-2009, 02:38 PM
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Jon is correct, as usual...
Although fine for a stock normally aspirated engine, the rod bolts in the turbo can stretch when certain parameters are exceeded. This may be due to design, age, heat, fatigue, metalurgy, or a combination of these aspects.

If you are going to change all the springs and retainers, I would recommend DR Cams:
http://www.drcamshafts.com/
They come in two flavors - Performance and Racing. I guess it depends on your budget.

Mark
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1991 964 Polar Silver Metallic Turbo Coupe
Old 01-26-2009, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucittm View Post
Jon is correct, as usual...

Mark
Mark, I already told you, no amount of flattery will convince me to trade cars with you!

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X-1, AFM744, Jon, '92 C2 Turbo
JE 8:1 pistons, 964 cams, 38mm intakes ported/polished/twinplugged, ARP hardware, B&B headers/exhaust, 355whp. Full-blown GT35R 3.2 intake EFI pending...
Where my misspent time and money is currently going.
Old 01-26-2009, 03:55 PM
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Jerry Woods Racing and EBS Racing valve springs and retainers are also quite good if you decide to purchase something other than what our host provides.
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Dave
'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 01-26-2009, 04:05 PM
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My car will be an antique before yours, why would I want to trade?

Mark
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1991 964 Polar Silver Metallic Turbo Coupe
Old 01-26-2009, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucittm View Post
My car will be an antique before yours, why would I want to trade?

Mark
Cuz black is teh faztest culler!
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X-1, AFM744, Jon, '92 C2 Turbo
JE 8:1 pistons, 964 cams, 38mm intakes ported/polished/twinplugged, ARP hardware, B&B headers/exhaust, 355whp. Full-blown GT35R 3.2 intake EFI pending...
Where my misspent time and money is currently going.
Old 01-26-2009, 06:49 PM
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Here is some pictures from tonight

taking out the rods without splitting the case



all bearings looks really fine so no need for change






Here is a remainder of how the rods should be mounted
numbers upside at right side and down at left side





now to tricky part, how do you get out the head studs? i think i need heat but how much? and is it no danger for the case?
Old 01-27-2009, 12:02 PM
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I got mine out with a cheap stud extractor and a propane torch. I heated the case from the cylinder spiggot for 5-10min and the studs all came out without too much drama.
I wish I could've NOT split my case, but my case seam was leaking and I figured "Well I'm already THIS far...".

So who left you the message taped on the wall?
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X-1, AFM744, Jon, '92 C2 Turbo
JE 8:1 pistons, 964 cams, 38mm intakes ported/polished/twinplugged, ARP hardware, B&B headers/exhaust, 355whp. Full-blown GT35R 3.2 intake EFI pending...
Where my misspent time and money is currently going.
Old 01-27-2009, 12:09 PM
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okey i will try with propane torch tomorrow hope it want be any problems


i just saw the message on the wall at this picture, i have not thought of it before, wonder who put it there
Old 01-27-2009, 12:41 PM
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the head studs were no problem to get out with a propane torch.

i am thinking about the piston rings, i did a leak down before disamble and it was only 2% leak is it still nesasery to change them do guys think. i meen the engine was runing fine i just wanted to change cams and now rebuild the heads.

how about the head seal, how mutch boost could i have before there are leak problems betwen cylinder and heads?

i have still have not made up my mind about the head studs
i thinking of ARP head studs, i have them i all my other engine builds and they are never a problem but the porsche engine seems sensitive about those studs.
anyone have had problems with ARP head studs?
Old 01-30-2009, 03:17 PM
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My engine is going on 10 years with ARP head studs and rod bolts. Redline is 7000rpm with a rev-limit at 7200rpm that I hit from time to time when the tires break loose.
My one data point.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 01-30-2009, 08:12 PM
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5+ years(10 K miles) on my build with the factory 993TT studs.
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'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 01-31-2009, 04:28 AM
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ARP studs are on the way to me

in what boost / hp is the head gasket a problem?
when do i need rings between cylinder and heads?

i still have not found a good place to buy valve springs, i have email http://www.drcamshafts.com/ but no answer.
Old 02-06-2009, 02:08 PM
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anyone have a god idea how to check if the cylinders surface are plain before reasamble?
are the comon that the cylinders surface are not straigt like the cylinder heads?

the cylinderheads i will refacing at the machin shop so they are 100% straight
but i thinking mabye i can resamble the cylinders this weekend.
Old 02-27-2009, 09:00 AM
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here are some pictures from the remove of old exhaust studs



I tried every way I could come up with to get them of


but they continued broke






at the end I discovered that it was better to cut the stud before it broken
to have i plain surface to drill, it was easier to get what was left of the stud out faster then
Old 02-27-2009, 02:53 PM
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What a husstle to get some studs out.
Old 03-01-2009, 12:51 PM
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how about torque for the for the ARP Rod studs,
are they the same as original stud?
they did not come with any information
Old 03-01-2009, 12:52 PM
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From the ARP web site:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechTorque.html

PORSCHE
Part#......Stretch(")...Torque
204-6001 .0117 45ftlbs
204-6002 .0112 50ftlbs
204-6003 .0094 45ftlbs
204-6004 .0117 45ftlbs
204-6005 .0120 35ftlbs
104-6006 .0050 40ftlbs

It depends on which ARP product you purchased.

Now get the ARP studs and nuts to replace your header studs and you are in good shape.

Mark
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Last edited by lucittm; 03-01-2009 at 04:14 PM..
Old 03-01-2009, 04:08 PM
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