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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: scotland
Posts: 248
hi,you are doing the work as i done last year,fitting arp rod bolts without splitting the case..arp do prefer you to use the stretch method however this aint so easy with the case not split,however they do also give you a torque method using their grease compound to help acheive the correct setting so that both nut and bolt threads mate up with no extra resistance to achieve correct torque setting..
I also developed i way to check the torque equals the correct stretch without splitting the case.
If you have a set of digital verniers you can measure each rod length before install then after using there torque method,turn the crank to suit which gives you most room for each rod bolt,squeeze a set of 6 inch digital vernier calipers in there,carefully take a size then carefully hit the zero button when on the torqued size,this way when you remove verniers and alter size no doubt with tryin to squeeze them out it dont really matter now because you have zero'd them on correct setting,now close vernier calipers and their is you stretched sized that you calculate your unstretched size from to confirm the torque method is the same.

I confirmed mine were all ok and were well within the stretch method spec size...i believe the torque method is to torque each one several times using their procedure so i would contact them,i cant remember it off the top of my head. Although i may have the instructions lying around and will check for you.
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SP Autobahn www.spautobahn.co.uk
Porsche inspector for Peter Morgan UK
http://www.porscheinspections.com/
"92" 964 turbo,Modified and recently rebuilt using all ARP hardware..
Purpose built fuel controller set up to acheive perfect fuel curve on CIS inj.

Last edited by stup; 03-02-2009 at 08:06 AM..
Old 03-02-2009, 02:24 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #101 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucittm View Post
From the ARP web site:


Now get the ARP studs and nuts to replace your header studs and you are in good shape.

Mark
thanks for the info Mark

were do i find the header studs M8?

what are your experience of stainless studs, i guess they are not so easy to drill out if they ever broke
Old 03-02-2009, 03:21 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #102 (permalink)
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i still a bit confused about the head sealing problem,

i have not decided if i go for Flame ringings, or just reface the heads.
i don't find anything about refacing the cylinders so i guess that is not any one do?

Stup how did you do?

i also read in Bruce's book that he recommend to rise the CR by taking 1mm of the heads
any one have experience of that?
Old 03-02-2009, 03:41 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #103 (permalink)
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My engine had snapped 2 head bolts which eventually blown through our later 3.3 engines original st/st sealing rings and also damaged head to cylinder face..
I sent the heads away to get ported/flowed and they also machined 0.006" thou(0.15mm) off each head to clean up damage however i am toolmaker to trade so i machined 0.005" thou(0.125mm) off my cylinders myself on my lathe to clean off damage so i only raised compression only slightly with the removing the minimum amount of material off to clean damaged faces!
Proper machined sealing rings if you are running higher boost or if cost is not an issue would be a good modification and will only help however our standard sealing rings also help in someway and i just went with that as i dont intend running any higher boost than 1 bar.
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SP Autobahn www.spautobahn.co.uk
Porsche inspector for Peter Morgan UK
http://www.porscheinspections.com/
"92" 964 turbo,Modified and recently rebuilt using all ARP hardware..
Purpose built fuel controller set up to acheive perfect fuel curve on CIS inj.

Last edited by stup; 03-02-2009 at 08:12 AM..
Old 03-02-2009, 04:48 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #104 (permalink)
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anyone here have a opinion about this?



the picture is from a nice thread i found
Rebuilding My 930

i am going for 36mm intakes, because i am still use the plastic injector blocks.

and point the hole 3.2 degrees towards the combustion chamber.


i cant find a tool like this it seams perfect for this work,
any one done it with another tool?

i seams nice to do the beginning of the port exact the same at all 6 heads
and then hand port the rest

Last edited by spjuvern; 03-02-2009 at 08:27 AM..
Old 03-02-2009, 08:24 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #105 (permalink)
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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Garage
I assume you have the thicker flange on your exhaust headers. Order these from ARP:

# - Part Number - Size
(1) - 400-8005 - M8x1.25x57mm (4-pack)
(1) - 400-8015 - M8x1.25x57mm (8-pack)

These are 170,000 psi studs and harder than Grade 8, so they will not break under normal use. The packs come with the washers and the nuts. They are expensive but worth it to me since I will never have to worry about rusted and broken studs.

Mark
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:41 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #106 (permalink)
 
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i have done some work on my heads

first i did the 36mm inlets



here is how it turned out, very nice


now i am porting the heads



what kind of tool do you recommend for final surface in the inlets?
Old 03-28-2009, 03:09 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #107 (permalink)
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Tjena Markus! (English from there on)

Stock bolts on (at least 930) engines were similar to Carrera ones. They tend to stretch if subjected to overrev. While this mainly affected Carrera motors (due to their inherent inability to produce any meaningful power without being revved the pi$$ of), 930 motors were somewhat spared due to their maximum power being produced at 5500 RPM. Thus there is no need to rev them to 7000 except more noise.

But changing rod bolts to ARP ones will give you more margins, especially if you plan adding other enhancements which would push you into revving higher.
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Old 03-28-2009, 04:15 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #108 (permalink)
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Personnaly, I think you will have some problem with the plastic injector block in future. Actually , I just removed the old one of my car and honnestly ... when I look how they grow old ( crack and bendings) without any modification (stock) ......I don't want to enlarge the inner diameter or reduce the material thickness of these plastic block !
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:59 AM
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Now it's time to wake up this thread when I finally started to assemble the engine

I add some pictures of the ported cylinder heads, brand new and ported plastic injector block , valves, and flame ring cylinders
All work done by Mike Svens at SpezialMotorer-Engine Development










I started port cylinder heads my self, but then I never got time left to make it finish, and Mike would still get his special radius valve seats and the flame ring cylinders, so it was finally clear to let him complete the cylinder heads as well.
Old 11-24-2009, 02:56 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #110 (permalink)
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i have discovered a problem today with my new 964 cams

the left camshaft don't have option for steering pump wheel

what are my options here?

and on the right side i miss some part to, but that i believe can by purchased
Old 12-16-2009, 01:03 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #111 (permalink)
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i forgot the picture

Old 12-16-2009, 01:05 PM
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i am going to try modifie the right hand cam to fit my power steer pump wheel

any one know were to buy the spacer pice to the oilpump on the left cam?
Old 12-18-2009, 08:02 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #113 (permalink)
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