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Crotchety Old Bastard
 
RarlyL8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Huntsville, AL
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The plug in this picture is that blue spot circled.
What I do is put on the gages and un-plug the WUR electric connector then turn on the fuel pumps with the engine off.
Take a small drift or flat punch and gently but crisply tap the plug. When the plug moves the pressure will change. VERY small movement so take it slow.
Again - if you go too far the WUR will have to be disassembled to punch the plug back so you can start over.

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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 11-13-2009, 07:43 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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"since it is a cold start issue and I cannot tell the actual pressure until the car if running correct?"

The control pressure on a cold motor will be the same if the engine has just started running or is just sitting there and will stay that way as long as you remove the electric heater element plug from the WUR.
Remove the plug from the cold start aux airslide valve too if you want it to remain in the open coldstart position while the ignition is on and the pumps are running.

That plug is for the heater element on the bimetalic spring inside the WUR so you want it unplugged while the ignition is on and the pumps are running so the WUR stays cold and you can take as much time to adjust cold control pressure as needed.

The bimetailc spring is mounted on the other end of that steel friction fit plug you tap in a tiny bit farther to lower cold control pressure.

It's almost impossible to tap it in and get it in the perfect position especially if it hasn't been adjusted in 20+ years and it's corroded a little. Most likely it will be stuck in place and you'll keeep tapping on it harder and harder until it moves and then it will slide in too far and your cold starts will be a little too rich.
BTDT on old CIS BMW 320i's back in the late eightees many times.

Anyway, you may get lucky and tap it just right and get it really close and alot better than it is now.
You can always take it apart and tap the steel pin back the other way if you go to far or send it to Brian Leask and have him make it fully adjustable.
The 4 flat blade machine screws in the bottom of the WUR holding on the bottom plate can be really tight...

My AFR is around 10.5:1 when I first start my '87 and I can drive off right away after a cold start without any hesitiation or hiccups from the CIS.

The bimetalic spring in the WUR quickly warms up making the control pressure raise quickly, and the idle AFRs are in the mid 14's after a few minutes running.
Old 11-13-2009, 10:42 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #22 (permalink)
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Like Fairman said, without a fully adjustable WUR, you'll run the risk of tapping the adjustment too far [possibly way too far] and won't have the easy ability to pull it back up [screw it back up] like the BL WUR.

If you haven't already, i'd do the following B4 you get your BL WUR:

1. Start with cold car
2. Unplug the WUR
3. Hook up the CIS gauges
4. Turn on Key
5. Pull airflow plug [on back of CIS intake] and get your pumps running
6. Note the reading [you're looking for 2.3 - 2.5 BAR

Report back... If you need immediate assistance, shoot me an email at:
mooney265@aol.com - - - - and, I'll walk you thru those 6-steps.

Shannon
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LIVN80S - - Red '79 Porsche 930 Steel Slant Nose Conversion [in 1987] w. 46k miles 3.3L; 964 Cams; K27HF @ 1.0 BAR, with Garrettson Intercooler; Rarly Zork; CIS Flowtech Fuel Head & BL-WUR.
Old 11-13-2009, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RarlyL8 View Post
The plug in this picture is that blue spot circled.
What I do is put on the gages and un-plug the WUR electric connector then turn on the fuel pumps with the engine off.
Take a small drift or flat punch and gently but crisply tap the plug. When the plug moves the pressure will change. VERY small movement so take it slow.
Again - if you go too far the WUR will have to be disassembled to punch the plug back so you can start over.

Brian, where is your vent line to your WUR being "vented" to in that pic?????
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LIVN80S - - Red '79 Porsche 930 Steel Slant Nose Conversion [in 1987] w. 46k miles 3.3L; 964 Cams; K27HF @ 1.0 BAR, with Garrettson Intercooler; Rarly Zork; CIS Flowtech Fuel Head & BL-WUR.
Old 11-13-2009, 03:01 PM
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Alright

Here we go. I forgot I had this fuel pressure kit from Harbor Freight that I purchased a while back and never used. It is brand new. I know this has the metric attachments to fit the car.

Can someone tell me where they plug into? I'm looking for what lines to tap into to get the readings. How does the kit look? Will this work for me? Is there special lines in the picture that I will need?

Mooney, I was going to ask about the switch so the fuel pumps continue to run so I appreciate your help with that. I was wondering how there would be pressure if the pumps were not continually running.



Thanks,
Bryan





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Previous cars:
1987 930, 1975 914 2.0, 1989 944 Turbo S, 1991 964 Targa, 2004 996TT Convertible, 550-6 Spyder with a 2.4 liter twin plug "S-spec'd motor"

Current cars: 2006 Cayenne TTS, 1991 964 Cabrio, 1997 993TT, 1984 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
Old 11-13-2009, 03:42 PM
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see picture below:



you need to ensure that you have both male and female fittings that will screw onto the fitting circled in yellow.

this is a picture of a BL WUR. See the adjustment screw circled in blue. Makes cold adjustments a "drew brees" - - go Saints!!

I believe you'll need a 13 or 14 mm box wrench to get that fitting off... Make sure you car is fully cooled off and pumps haven't been run in hours, this way you won't have too much fuel spilled when you loosen this fitting. It shouldn't be more than an ounce...

If you've run your pumps within the past hour or so... be prepared to "sop up" 4-5 oz of fuel...
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LIVN80S - - Red '79 Porsche 930 Steel Slant Nose Conversion [in 1987] w. 46k miles 3.3L; 964 Cams; K27HF @ 1.0 BAR, with Garrettson Intercooler; Rarly Zork; CIS Flowtech Fuel Head & BL-WUR.
Old 11-13-2009, 04:03 PM
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Crotchety Old Bastard
 
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If plan B is to send the WUR off to BL to be made adjustable then you have nothing to lose by trying to tap it down yourself. I've done this numerous times as high cold start pressure is a very common problem. I've never overshot the target pressure. You just have to be patient and never tap hard. If the area is rusty soak it overnight.

Here is a picture of the gages mounted during a tuning session using a WUR that was made adjustable.

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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 11-13-2009, 08:27 PM
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Brian,, why don't you get the DWUR from unwired tools, ,takes care of all these problems with a few strokes of the keyboard
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:59 AM
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Problem Solved

Well,

I appreciate everyones input. Through some great advice to check my TTS first I decided to see if that was even firing the the CSV by grounding the red wire to fire the injector no matter how cold/warm the car was. The car had been sitting for almost a week and it fired right up on the first turn of the starter.

I had my old TTS (never knew how to check it) and my buddy Chris (356-930) explained to me that it should read about mid to upper 30's on the ohm meter. I checked it and it read 48.. so we were in business.

Within 30 minutes I removed the IC, boost pipe and barely was able to get the 19mm wrench in there but I got her off. Put the old on and away I go.. PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

I checked the other TTS with an ohm meter and it didn't even register (the one that has been in the car for 7 months)... so it was bad for sure.

I'm very happy to say I didn't have to check the WUR pressure as the car runs great in any other scenario.. Here is a picture of the defective unit.

Thanks for all of the ideas and I hope this can help people in the future with their issues.

Bryan

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Previous cars:
1987 930, 1975 914 2.0, 1989 944 Turbo S, 1991 964 Targa, 2004 996TT Convertible, 550-6 Spyder with a 2.4 liter twin plug "S-spec'd motor"

Current cars: 2006 Cayenne TTS, 1991 964 Cabrio, 1997 993TT, 1984 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
Old 11-14-2009, 03:41 PM
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