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resident samsquamch
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RarlyL8 View Post

If you wish to remove the bumper as one unit you must first remove the heat shiled to get to the nuts that remove the bumper boobs that must be removed to get to the nuts that hold the bumper on.
Be careful when removing the accordians on each side as the little bolts can scratch your paint.
The four nuts for the bumper are not under the boobs. They are under the rub strips on each side. If you look closely at the rub strip, you will find a small plastic plug. Carefully pry the plug out. Under the plug there is phillips screw. Loosen the screw. The end of the rub strip is actually just tucked into the boob (LOL). Just pull it out and you'll see the nuts. You don't have to remove the boobs! Rarly is correct about using caution when working with the accordions.

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back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2
*SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction...
"Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP)
Old 12-11-2008, 07:00 PM
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All this talk of boobs and nuts is making me feel...um...er...funny!
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back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2
*SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction...
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Old 12-11-2008, 07:02 PM
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It's way easiest to remove the whole bumper with valence, license plate and heat sheild all left in place, and you have alot more access.

Like has been said there are 2 nylocks and washers holding it on each side and they are under the rubber strips.
You don't have to remove the whole rubber strip, just remove the philips head machine screw under the plastic cap in the middle of the rubber strip next to the bumperette. These steel screws thread right into the aluminum bumper and get wet when it rains or you wash the car so a little anti-seize is good on them when reinstalling
Untuck it from the slot in the bumperette and let it swing out, you will see the 13mm nylocks.

There are small nylocks on the studs in the rubber bellows that are easy to get off from the inner side under the car with a 1/4" drive socket wrench.
The rubber bellows are usually stiff and it takes some pulling to get the studs out of the small holes on the end of the bumper but they come out. This is where it's easy to scratch a little paint on the ends of the bumpers, but it's aluminum and any possible scratches will be hidden under the rubber bellows when reinstalled.

I put insulated spade terminals in the license plate light wire harness so it's quicker and alot easier to reconnect them when removing and reinstalling the bumper in the future.
Old 12-11-2008, 08:46 PM
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Not all rubber strips have access holes. Mine don't so you have to remove the boobs. It's also nice to clean under there as well. I wax the area before putting the boobs back.

So to recap, if your rubber has a hole you can get off easier but if not then moving the boobs will help get your nuts off AND the boobs get a free wax job.
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Old 12-11-2008, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RarlyL8 View Post
.

So to recap, if your rubber has a hole you can get off easier but if not then moving the boobs will help get your nuts off AND the boobs get a free wax job.
Damnit Bryan this is a family forum,, you're gonna have Z-man censoring us over here if you keep that kinda talk up!!!
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Old 12-11-2008, 09:33 PM
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So now adding rubbers to nuts and boobs??? YIKES! In all seriousness if you look at the original poster's picture you can see the small plug on the rub strip, under which the philips screw is, under which the bumper nuts are.

Also if you look at the picture that Rarly posted of the black car, you can see that the boobs are off and there are no bumper nuts under them...
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back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2
*SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction...
"Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP)

Last edited by sand_man; 12-12-2008 at 03:27 AM..
Old 12-11-2008, 09:36 PM
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Tug just remove the bumper and all goes well…
I have/had the same Borla exhaust you have now and it’s much easier with the bumper off.

Borla is rather large and clumsy, barely fits with the bumper and valence in place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RarlyL8 View Post
So to recap, if your rubber has a hole you can get off easier but if not then moving the boobs will help get your nuts off AND the boobs get a free wax job.
Regards to the bumperettes, they are not “Boobs” but rather “Rear facing Tits”, saying this makes me feel hard core
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Old 12-11-2008, 10:24 PM
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Thanks, I`ll let you guy`s know how it turns out....
Old 12-12-2008, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cl8ton View Post

Regards to the bumperettes, they are not “Boobs” but rather “Rear facing Tits”, saying this makes me feel hard core
You dirty birdy! Enough talk of these Porsche created mams, here's some frustration I might be able to live with:



(please DON'T post pictures of nuts and/or rubbers)
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back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2
*SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction...
"Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP)
Old 12-12-2008, 06:19 AM
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Sorry for the digression.

To directly answer the question, yes of course there is more room to work if you take the bumper off and it is not difficult at all.
It is also good to note that it is not mandatory to remove the bumber when changing out a stock muffler.
It is also good to note that with my muffler you don't have to remove anything, not even the valance.

The reason that I don't remove the bumper on client's cars is to protect the bumper from possible damage during the process and to not disturb the position of the bumper and associated hardware. Also lessens the chance of broken rusty nuts and bolts.
.
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Old 12-12-2008, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RarlyL8 View Post
Sorry for the digression.

To directly answer the question, yes of course there is more room to work if you take the bumper off and it is not difficult at all.
It is also good to note that it is not mandatory to remove the bumber when changing out a stock muffler.
It is also good to note that with my muffler you don't have to remove anything, not even the valance.
Just so that we're clear, I'm not arguing or fighting with your methods just for the sake of it. As I've already said, I don't remove my bumper either...but mine is no longer stock. And thinking back to the first time I ever did this job, you are correct, I had enough room (kinda sorta) to work on it with everything in place, but the nuts were old, badly galled, and rounded. A couple of them would not budge. When I got the rear bumper off, it was like an epiphany...the parting of the Red Sea! The improved access made child's play of it. The rear bumper was off in less than 15 minutes and it saved me tons of more heartache and having to work on my back in tight confines.

And it is so true about Rarly's exhaust...that thing is so nice to work with. It weighs nothing, and the dimensions are perfect.
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back in the saddle: '95 993 - just another black C2
*SOLD*: '87 930 GP White - heroin would have been a cheaper addiction...
"Ladies and Gentlemen, from Boston Massachusetts, we are Morphine, at your service..." - Mark Sandman (RIP)

Last edited by sand_man; 12-12-2008 at 08:40 AM..
Old 12-12-2008, 06:36 AM
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Slitting that nice young girl's shirt has given me some ideas! One of which I might apply to my car.

I'm toying with the idea of leaving my skirt off and exposing my pumper ...



After putting engine back in last weekend, I have been driving around without a rear bumper all week and I reckon it looks heaps more bad-ass than anything else I see on the roads around here.
However, it looks a bit too naked without a bumper, so I am considering chopping the centre out of a spare bumper and filling in all the bolt holes for an all white look without the rubber strips.

Oh yeah, and it should make it easy to remove turbo and muffler.
Shame the muffler isn't a bit more purposeful looking though.

PS. I haven't refitted the big red reflector yet so I photo-shopped out the mounting holes.
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Old 12-13-2008, 05:39 AM
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I'd be more inclined to drill some holes in the bumper if your looking to get more cooling. I think Craig 930 has done that. Looks good.

Cutting out the section in your picture won't provide much protection.

I've removed all rubber from the back if my bumper and filled in the holes. I like the look. I'm tempted to drill some holes as well.

Quote:
Slitting that nice young girl's shirt has given me some ideas! One of which I might apply to
I'm toying with the idea of leaving my skirt off and exposing my pumper ...

After putting engine back in last weekend, I have been driving around without a rear bumper all week and I reckon it looks heaps more bad-ass than anything else I see on the roads around here.

However, it looks a bit too naked without a bumper, so I am considering chopping the centre out of a spare bumper and filling in all the bolt holes for an all white look without the rubber strips.

Oh yeah, and it should make it easy to remove turbo and muffler.
Shame the muffler isn't a bit more purposeful looking though.

PS. I haven't refitted the big red reflector yet so I photo-shopped out the mounting holes.

Last edited by A930Rocket; 12-13-2008 at 02:47 PM..
Old 12-13-2008, 02:42 PM
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License plate light wires

I tied fish lines to the license plate light wires so when I fitted everything back up I could easily pull the wires through the heat shield and out the bumperetts..
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Old 12-13-2008, 04:48 PM
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Got the valence off:
Old 12-16-2008, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
It's way easiest to remove the whole bumper with valence, license plate and heat sheild all left in place, and you have alot more access.

Like has been said there are 2 nylocks and washers holding it on each side and they are under the rubber strips.
You don't have to remove the whole rubber strip, just remove the philips head machine screw under the plastic cap in the middle of the rubber strip next to the bumperette. These steel screws thread right into the aluminum bumper and get wet when it rains or you wash the car so a little anti-seize is good on them when reinstalling
Untuck it from the slot in the bumperette and let it swing out, you will see the 13mm nylocks.

There are small nylocks on the studs in the rubber bellows that are easy to get off from the inner side under the car with a 1/4" drive socket wrench.
The rubber bellows are usually stiff and it takes some pulling to get the studs out of the small holes on the end of the bumper but they come out. This is where it's easy to scratch a little paint on the ends of the bumpers, but it's aluminum and any possible scratches will be hidden under the rubber bellows when reinstalled.

I put insulated spade terminals in the license plate light wire harness so it's quicker and alot easier to reconnect them when removing and reinstalling the bumper in the future.
Thanks JFairman, I took my bumper off today using you advice and it worked out great.
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Old 10-24-2010, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billjam View Post
Slitting that nice young girl's shirt has given me some ideas! One of which I might apply to my car.

I'm toying with the idea of leaving my skirt off and exposing my pumper ...



After putting engine back in last weekend, I have been driving around without a rear bumper all week and I reckon it looks heaps more bad-ass than anything else I see on the roads around here.
However, it looks a bit too naked without a bumper, so I am considering chopping the centre out of a spare bumper and filling in all the bolt holes for an all white look without the rubber strips.

Oh yeah, and it should make it easy to remove turbo and muffler.
Shame the muffler isn't a bit more purposeful looking though.

PS. I haven't refitted the big red reflector yet so I photo-shopped out the mounting holes.
This one looks pretty slick.



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Old 10-27-2010, 07:52 PM
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