Map Sensors for 930
 

Trying to get my LM-1 components together for logging AFR.RPM,Boost. I've got
a LM2A for the RPM and was having trouble coming up with a MAP set-up.
Thought this might be helpfully to others.

Got GM 2 Bar and 3 Bar Map Sensors and Connectors on EvilBay for $9.00

PN# GM 2 Bar 12580698
Pn# GM 3 Bar 16040749
Pn# Connector 15306891

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1230677245.jpg

The MAP sensor requires a 5 VDC power source for the MAP Sensor. Got some parts
from Radio Shack and put together a 12VDC in and a 5 VDC out regulator. The caps give
you a nice clean output and it ties directly into the LMA 2

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1230677646.jpg

Hope this helps !!!

Cole

edit: I thought you were selling these. Doh

The LM-3? "aux box" has an internal MAP sensor that will work with the system and an LM1 to log the data. Works well and right now I use it as a standalone going to a Innovate gage that can be configured for any of the aux box outputs.
Plus with the aux box you get internal accelrometers if you ever wann measure handling g-forces.

Equality,

Not advertising just trying to pass on information to others trying to figure
out how to do this without breaking the bank.
At the Cole household innovation supplements limited funds. I'm chipping
away at medical bills from a Heart Bypass, 8 Cancer operations, and 6 Months of
Chemo. Can you say CoPay on $764,000 as of last month.
And my nicknamed is Lucky.
If your looking for some of this stuff give me a call. I do have a spare 2 Bar
and connector and I made 2 of the power supplies. I have material lists and
part numbers for all of this. 260-570-6914

Cole

Fred,

I know there are easier ways to do this but, as noted in my previous post,
innovation is required here. I bought the LM- 1 used with cables and O2 for
$74.00, paid another $26.00 for the LM2A, and it came with an AFR readout.
The MAP $9.00 will wire directly into the LM2A , and I got about
$8.00 - $10.00 worth of parts in the power supply.

Innovation; I moved my office to my house, used vacation for the operations,
had 5 operations at once the last go around so I wouldn't have to go back,
took my laptop to chemo with me, and haven't missed a day work.
I have sent a letter to Congress requesting a Bail Out but I haven't
heard back from them yet.

Cole

Cole,

I'll give you a call when I can. I have an Innovate SSI-4 and LC-1 set up now and I want to measure boost as well. I can provide the 5vdc from the SSI-4 if needed but I like the regulator idea so I can keep the 5v open for other sensors. I was already looking at buying the GM map sensor (or equivalent) but if you've got spares you'd sell I'll take them. I'd be interested to see how you built the regulator.

Mark,

You can have the spare 2 Bar and connector if you want it. If you want to get
me $10.00 I'll send it to you. I'll include a drawing and material list for the
regulator.
I built the regulator so you can attach it in the engine compartment on the
left side with double backed tape and pick up power off the 3 fuse block thats
there. I was going to put covered connectors on the pigtail and then make a
separate mating harness for the MAP connector. I'll also send a spec. sheet for
the MAP Sensor.

Cole

Very nice, how do you want payment?

where/how are you connecting the MAP sensors ? do you have to drill / tap into the manifold ?

Mark,

Just send it to PayPal that would be fine. cole930@mchsi.com

Hope it works well for Ya!!!!!!

Cole

9Dreizig

You could put a nipple fitting and attach a hose in the intake. I'm going to try
teeing into the vacuum line between the WUR and the intake or intercooler. The
intake would give you the most accurate boost reading. It's possible we may be
able, with the right gauge, to get it to read negative numbers under vacuum and
transition to positive numbers as boost builds. I'm looking into that now.

Here is what I was talking about (Off the Innovate Forum)

The GM sensors work very well with the LM-1 because they are cheap and linear. To calibrate you need 2 calibration points. A vacuum gauge would be perfect. You could do the vacuum calib at a place that services AC systems. They have good vacuum gauges.
Hook up the MAP sensor to your manifold. Put a T- connection (temporarily) in there for the vacuum gauge. Let the engine idle (warmed up). That creates your vaccum. Enter the PSI number (in absolute PSI) in the input configuration. Right click on the voltage field in the input config. That allows you to paste-in the current input voltage from the MAP sensor corresponding to the vacuum PSI.
Then switch the engine off. MAP is now atmospheric pressure at 14.7 PSI. Enter 14.7 in the second (PSI) input field and paste in the current voltage as before in the second voltage field.

This configures the input in absolute PSI. I prefer absolute because the engine does not care about outside pressure, only absolute MAP.
If you want vaccuum/boost display instead, subtract 14.7 from the vacuum PSI and enter that number there. Then enter 0 PSI in the second field. Vacuum is then displayed as negative number and boost as positive.



Cole

Sounds like you have been thru a hell of a lot. God bless you and keep on fighting.

I just meant to show other options in case you were not aware that the aux box does a lot of cool stuff.
I could add that teeing into the intake manifold directly will give the best results especially if you want to show vacuum. I found that teeing into the intercooler or other areas before the throttle body will give mostly atmospheric values since you don't build much vacuum to speak of before the throttle plate. This could be a little misleading to someone at first until you think about what is going on.
Good luck.

Fred,

By all means I took no offense I appreciated your input. I'm older that dirt
and all this new electronic computer based s--- screws with my head. I'll take
all the help I can get.

Cole

Payment sent, thanks. I'll let you know how it works out.

Mark,
I send you a PM when it's in the mail.

THANKS !!!!
Cole