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Wo ist die Rennstrecke?
 
DonE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Brooks, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x98boardwell View Post
don,

good info, but i am still confused. I have the aluminum size injector blocks which can be bored out, but with the intake... How do i do it, how much should something like this cost, and where can i take it.. I mean what kind of shop would know what i'm taking about or is it something that i need to send out?

If i have to send out, it's over $500 and will take a month save your response about what to do and just tell me no. I don't have the time, $$ and patience that it will take to allow that to happen. If it is relatively easy then i'm all for it.

Please provide some guidance.

Thanks,
bryan

The aluminum blocks can be done at home with an AL burr on a air grinder. If you're interested, call me and I'll explain.

Last edited by DonE; 01-15-2009 at 06:39 PM..
Old 01-15-2009, 06:35 PM
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Don

What cost would I be looking at to address the intake to increase flow? Who can do this?

Bryan
Old 01-17-2009, 08:03 AM
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Forced Induction Junkie
 
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Bryan,
Do a search on the Pelican Forum for "Extrude Hone" and you will find a wealth of information, both good and bad. The major thing is to select the best source to do this work. I have read that there were some horror stories with one location.
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'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 01-17-2009, 08:11 AM
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Bryan, post the pic of you in the engine well! or maybe we all here need to start a new thread on well pics?
As our engines go back into our cars, we need to focus on the immediate threat this spring here in the valley, namely

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Old 01-18-2009, 06:41 PM
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Well,

It was 70 degrees and sunny here today. Very nice weather for this time of year. Then engine install went pretty seamless today considering we were delayed 2 hours because we needed the 12-point drive to torque down the flywheel before we could mate the transmission up to the motor.

The motor is in but absolutely nothing is hooked up other than the 4 bolts that hold the motor. I am running the 3LDZ turbo to break in the top-end rebuild and the ceramic coated headers.

More updates tomorrow. Thanks for looking,
Bryan













Old 01-18-2009, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x98boardwell View Post
Maxx,

Sorry for the error on the fuel distributor. It was actually done by Special-T- Auto. Here is the link. They also will rebuild WUR's and they specialize in Porsche and Delorean.

http://www.specialtauto.com/porsche-parts/index.html
Thanks, Bryan. That is relatively local to me. I will check it out.
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:24 PM
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Question

In this picture below you can see my co-axial cable from my dist. that is going into 2 of the 6 CDI connections.

Some of the wires have been frayed a little. I had a shop install this new wire when I purchased the car and had no idea they did such a horrible splice job.

What is your opinion on the condition of the spliced portion of the wire and what exactly does this wire do... I mean what function does each portion of the coax have?

Thanks
Bryan

PS, sorry about the last picture, I couldn't seem to get it focused.






Old 01-20-2009, 10:21 AM
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Fix it by all means! cut the wire, stip a little insulation, and put some good heat shrink tubing on there, then put it in a nice plastic conduit or some protective jacket. If you cannot get enough length, you can splice in a little extra wire.
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Old 01-20-2009, 10:45 AM
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Motor is in and the car purr's like a kitten. Some of the issues when I was getting her going.

1) The car would not start even though I had spark at coil and plugs. I had my fuel distributor rebuilt so I was leaning towards a bad dist. That was not it. I pulled one of the injector lines (#6) to see of I was getting any fuel... the answer was no. I even pulled the fuel cut-of switch so they ran all the time. So I decided to push on the air-sensor plate and BOOOMNMM, fuel came pooring out into the cup from #6. I didn't realize at the time that air had built up in the system from all of the lines (and dist.) being completely empty. I then put the car back together and tryed to start it... started right up. I then waited until support (fellow pelicanites) were around to run the car for 20 minutes to break in the cams.

2) Breaking in the cams: The car ran rough which was caused from it being too rich (did not know at the time) but went the full 20 minutes and ran fine but would not idle. One of the guys said they could smell fuel so I started to adjust the mixture (counter-clockwise) to lean it out. After about 3-4 10ths of a turn (40 degrees or so) the AFR gage finally read 10... Man this thing was rich. I kept adjusting until she was around 14 at idle. Now the car really sounded good with the SC cams. It sounds a little meaner with the SC cams as it did with the 964's that I had before.

3) The motor seems dry after the rebuild. Everything looks good. I am planning (weather permitting) to drive the car tomorrow and see how she does. I need to run non synthetic oil for the first 1,000 miles to seat the rings but will change after 200 to make sure there are no chunks that I should know about or anything.

I will keep the forum updated but I wanted to say thank you to Rod (cl8ton), Julian (CarMad) and Alan (HipDoc) for helping me with time, parts, and engine stand and the consumption of my beer when they were over. Without you guys I would not have been able to complete this task or be able to taste new beer as I bought it at the store weekly. Go Fat Tire!!!

Wish me luck tomorrow.

Kind Regards,
Bryan

The picture that led to this all... crazy blue smoke and a blown turbo seal after only 800 miles.

Old 01-24-2009, 08:34 PM
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Bryan: Great writeup and even greater end results after what seemed like a long time coming. From your description of the reassembly, it sounds like you've got most all of the issues sorted...now comes the fine tuning. Tomorrow is going to be a great finale'.

I look forward to coming down and seeing the fruits of all your effort.

Chuck
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Old 01-24-2009, 08:54 PM
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Crotchety Old Bastard
 
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Cool! Looks like you're on the road agian!
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Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 01-25-2009, 09:01 AM
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Response

Chuck,

Thanks for the comments. I will not be able to get into boost until I hit 1,000 miles but she runs AWESOME!!!! I took it out today for a few miles (like 5) since it was going to rain and she ran perfect. The car has never ran this good since I have owned it. AFR's are on spot and she reacts just like she should.

I am smelling a lot of things through the exhaust (heat) since the pipes are still curing do to the ceramic coating that was inside and out.

The only leaks that I have are from the scavenge return pipe right before it hits the oil tank. There is a soft line there that has seen better days and will need replacement. And the seal for the turbo on the bottom where it attaches to the drip tank is old and I need one of those. Otherwise, she is dry as a bone.

Off boost (which is my only option) it seems to be more responsive with the SC cams rather than the 964's that I had before. It may just be me not remembering what the car should feel like since it's been so long, but it does seem lighter on it's feet and more responsive. There is also a little gurgle to the motor from the cams as well. It sounds meaner.

RarlyL8,

The exhaust fits great. I messed up the waste-gate pipe a little from when I was trying to fit it to the previous headers but with stock exhaust it fits great. Thanks for your willingness to make it right even though my headers were the issue.

This is a great community and I appreciate the support and advice that I receive from all of you. Can anyone tell that I am in a good mood? Just checking.

It's great to be back!!!

Bryan
Old 01-25-2009, 11:49 AM
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The car runs great. I have about 100 miles on the car to this point and have seated the rings (I mean seated). The car pulls like bat out of hell.

Question,

I have adjusted my AFR's and seem to be in the mid 14's while cruising and 16's when I let off the gas. When I am at WOT and full boost, I am still running around 10.5. If I adjust the mixture to lean the car out is it alright if I go a little leaner while cruising or should I stay that rich at WOT? It seems to rich and I don't want to wash out the cylinders.

Thanks,
Bryan
Old 01-27-2009, 08:02 PM
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Bryan: I installed an LM-1 and have it lying on the passenger's seat where I can check it as I drive. The car is pretty well dialed in....at idle I'm right at 14.7....as I accelerate, it will still hover in that area, but as soon as I go WOT, it drops to 10.6, then will creep up into the 11 and 12's and into the 13's. As soon as I let off the gas from WOT, it will zoom up to 16-17 or sometimes higher as the acceleration drops, then when I hit the accelerator, it will go back down to the high 10-12's and eventually back in the the 14's as I cruise.

The tailpipe is a bit on the black side, but better there than lean. I'm running B. Leaske's WUR as well as his solenoid....and they seem to keep everything just about right. Since it was dialed in, the engine temps stay in the 140-180 range...but of course the weather is cooler now. The B6 intercooler seems to be doing the job...but was a PIA to get to fit correctly.

I have some oil leaks in spite of installing new valve cover and chain cover gaskets...may need to drop it again and re-do them.

If you need an LM-1, you're welcome to use mine for as long as you need it. Once you get the CIS dialed in, it pretty much stays there. I'll be happy to mail it to you if you like.
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Old 01-27-2009, 08:54 PM
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Chuck

I currently have and permanently mounted LC-1 with an XD-16 digital gage from Innovate Motorsports. This is how I am able to discuss my AFR's in the above message, but thanks for offering to help.

I am currently running a stock WUR and was curious if I lean the car out more what would happen. I would think that it is alright to be in the high 14's or even low 15's at cruise so that I am closer to high 11's when in full boost.

Anyone out there have any input on this matter? I dont want to be too rich (ie. low to high 10's in WOT) because it is not good for the motor either. I would like to try and find a happy medium.

Thanks again Chuck.

Bryan
Old 01-28-2009, 06:59 AM
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You want to be in no more than 14.7 at cruise like a NA car. You need to do something about that stock WUR, send it to Brian Leask and get the solenoid with it too. Or get the UT Digital WUR. You need to have some control over your fuel, especially when you bolt the K27s back on there, i assume you'll be running 1.0bar?

Chuck if you are seeing 13's at WOT you are way too lean, you need a little more fuel up top, you want to see no more than 12.2. Also what chip do you have in the solenoid? You may be able to raise the RPM trigger point to help smooth out the rich section some more.
You will no doubt have to compromise a little when running a bigger turbo and more boost, to get the fuel right up at the red line you will have to live with a bit of a rich patch on the way up, the RPM switch will eliminate most of it but there will still be a bit of compromise.
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:34 AM
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Sorry to throw this in so late. I did mod my injector stacks and manifold. The bottleneck on your engine remains the intake ports though. The intake manifold, injector stacks, and intake port opening are all 32mm. I had my ports cut open to 38mm as I'm fitting a Carrera manifold soon, but in the meantime I bored out my stock injector blocks to 35.5mm and the manifold to match. the blocks were easy; run a 1 3/8" holesaw through them on the drill press, then taper them out a bit at the bottom. The manifold, being magnesium, took more work. I used the holesaw, but clamping the manifold (must be careful clamping mangesium, it cracks) was tough. I then spent hours with the die grinder cleaning up the butchery left behind by the holesaw. I then spent hours more with carb cleaner, wheel brushes and a pressure washer getting all the chips and abrasives out of the manifold.
It definitely flows waaay better, but I actually can't run my 1.0bar spring now because it leans out and pings. I've had several good suggestions on how to fix that, but I'm moving on to EFI.
Take a look at Pg.4 on my build thread h ref'd in my sig.
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:27 AM
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Well,

The car could not be running better. I recently took the car to Monterey for the Historics and was able to do a parade lap at Laguna Seca as well.

This weekend my wife and I went with some friends (they drove their own car) to Paso Robles and San Luis Obispo for some wine tasting. We stopped at the James Dean Memorial and took a few pics of the car in front of the memorial. I also (20 miles later) turned 100,000 miles on the car and 2,000 miles on the new motor. This thing has never ran better and feels so tight and new. At one spot just before the memorial I was able to stretch her legs a bit and the speedometer was reading 155 two different times and she was still fighting hard so not sure how fast we could have gone and how accurate the speedo is. I figured it was also appropriate to be going 100 mph while I was rolling 100,000 miles. It seemed too perfect not to do.

Question, Can someone tell me how fast I should be going in 4th gear (stock ratios) at 3,000 rpm? This would tell me how accurate my speedo is.

I included a few pics from the trip. I have never been happier with the car and their is not even a drop of oil on the floor from her after the 400 mile trip.

Thanks again for all who helped with the rebuild and wisdom. I could not have done it without this forum.

Bryan







Old 09-20-2009, 12:08 PM
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Per my '87 911 Turbo manual its graph shows 85 mph or 135 km/h at 3k rpm for a 4 sp.

Nice way to to celebrate 100k miles!
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Last edited by MikeD930; 09-20-2009 at 03:23 PM.. Reason: Incorrect mph
Old 09-20-2009, 12:48 PM
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I know from experience 3000rpm in 4th is 80mph.

stock gearing.
Old 09-20-2009, 02:25 PM
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