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Updates on engine top-end rebuild

Hello,

Please reference my previous thread which will explain everything
While I was driving, everything was fine until.....

I have been working vigorously on my motor to finish it up. Here are just some of the things that I have done in the last 60 days.

1) Rebuilt cylinder heads by Competition Engineering.. Walt is a great guy, drove down to see him in person about 2 1/2 hours away.
2) Walt also honed my cylinders and I installed a new ring set.
3) Re-ground rocker arms and new shafts where needed
4) New Head studs
5) Cams reground to SC specs by Webcams (I actually was running 964 cams and didn't know it) but I do not track the car and was concerned more with off boost power... not high rpm power
6) Powdercoated Fan, Valve covers, engine mount in front, fan housing, engine tin in front, cylinder heat fins, and engine mount cross bar
7) Flywheel turned
8) glass beaded my chain tensioner cases and covers
9) Installed new master link chains and all new (6) chain ramps.
10) Fuel filter
11) All new vacuum hose
12) rebuilt fuel distributor by Exhaust Special-T's (guy is an ass, but does good work)
13) New coil and spark plug wires
14) rebuilt scavenge pump with new gaskets and seals
15) New rear main seal
16) New pilot bearing
17) new throw out bearing
18) I went through wiring harness and fixed/soldered/replaced any possible connection issues before installing it back into the car
19) New engine seal all the way around.
20) New firewall Appbiz sound/heat pad
21) Cleaned entire air box (under the fuel dist.) and re-siliconed with lithium grease where pivot arm is actuated by fuel dist.
22) Cleaned entire inside of intake manifold (since I blew a turbo seal previously... this was messy) inside and out


When I went to see Walt at Competition Engineering he put my heads on a leak tester. All of them were in fairly good shape. The valve guides were the issue, they were shot. The cylinders were all in spec except for 2 of them (not sure which ones). He honed all of them with a special machine and I installed a new ring set to re-seat. Walt mentioned that if I were to buy new cylinders (lets say stock for example) that they would flex to almost the same out-of roundness as mine in the 1st hour of operation. He said there was no reason to run new or different cylinders unless I wanted to cough up the $$ to do so. He has been doing this for many years and said there was no need if I was planning on staying stock which I was.


In the meantime while my motor was at Walt's, I decided to do some spring cleaning on the engine bay, replace sound pad and engine seal. The motor has been coming back together nicely and I have paid close attention to replacing anything that should not be re-used. My goal is to create a nice reliable 930 with some extra power that I can take to the coast or mountains with no worry about leaving me standed.

My brother (turbobrat930) did all of the yellow powdercoating and Caps Powdercoating locally did all of the black including ceramic coating my exhaust which I think turned out nicely. The owner of Caps (Ronnie) has done about 60 turbo application exhausts including Porsches and stated that all of them have worked great. He did mention to cycle the curing process by starting the car for a few minutes and then let cool, re-starting for longer and let cool and so on. He said that by incrementally increasing the heat that you are strengthening the cermaic coat for a longer life. This will be ok up to 2000 degrees farenheit.

Please feel free to reply with comments, questions, or anything else that suits you. I have included some gratuitous pics.

Thanks,
Bryan

In the first photo I have included my air breather cover. The little plastic pegs that sit inside the holes on the breather neck snapped off. Are these of any importance?



















Old 01-13-2009, 06:34 PM
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Too bad you didn't extrude hone the intake. One of the few things that works with the stock manifold. Very nice.
Old 01-13-2009, 07:28 PM
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Oh ya, and welcome to the dark side.....
Old 01-13-2009, 07:30 PM
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Bryan

The engine looks great! I'm sure your ready to get it done.

The ceramic headers look interesting. Not the usual shiny stuff. How are you going to do the header break-in with the cam break-in?

Jim
Old 01-13-2009, 07:41 PM
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I use one of them for the retard function on my dizzy. When I desmogged my car, that's where I traced it to. Of course I have the dual can dizzy.

Quote:
In the first photo I have included my air breather cover. The little plastic pegs that sit inside the holes on the breather neck snapped off. Are these of any importance?
Old 01-13-2009, 07:57 PM
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Response

Don,

I still have my intake off as you can see. I forgot to mention that I purchased the aluminum injector blocks from Turbokrtaft (Chris is great) but decided to stay with stock specs since I was not doing any porting on the cylinder heads. What is involved in extruding/honing my intake? Would it help even though I didn't touch my cylinders or injector blocks to increase the size?

A930rocket,

You bring up a great question that I already asked the owner of the shop about. He agreed that cams are much more important than longevity of the exhaust. I plan to run my 3ldz turbo (rather than my newly rebuilt K27s from Ultimate) to break them in along with this technique. He told me to put fans on both side of the exhaust along with running my heaters the entire time. He said that it should be just fine. This will help to prevent bubbling. When the exhaust is coated at the shop it it cures/cooks at 600 degrees. He said that as as long as I keep it as cold as possible that it should slowly heat up rather than rapidly and that is all that I should be after. The staged technique is just more effective for most people that also try to fill the the blinker fluid... if you know what I mean.

The reason that i did not go with the polished look is that is wouldn't stay like that for long and the black is able to withstand higher heat.

Don, let me know your thoughts and thanks for the comments.

Bryan
Old 01-13-2009, 07:58 PM
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My question

Can someone also answer my question from the first photo?

Thanks,
Bryan
Old 01-13-2009, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x98boardwell View Post
Hello,
.............................................In the first photo I have included my air breather cover. The little plastic pegs that sit inside the holes on the breather neck snapped off. Are these of any importance?



Bryan,
Are you referring to the little ball-like pieces the go in the holes of the breather hose attachment point? If so, I thought they were metallic. I think they were there to prevent the clamped hose from slowly working off the breather. I suppose you can go ahead without them as long as the pieces didn't fall into the engine.

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Old 01-14-2009, 09:01 AM
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Werk-i

I am, they fell off when I had the breather neck off so not in the engine. Mine were very brittle from 21 years of heat but I figured they were for what you mentioned.

I think a tight clamp will work just fine.

Thanks,
Bryan
Old 01-14-2009, 09:23 AM
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Bryan, looks like nice work. Interested in your source for the fuel distributor rebuild. Perhaps you could PM me with the contact info, price and elaborate on your experience.
Thanks,
Maxx
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:31 AM
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Wow! I mis-read the question. I was thinking about the thermovalve or whatever it is on the breather cover and the little tubes on it.
Quote:
Are you referring to the little ball-like pieces the go in the holes of the breather hose attachment point? If so, I thought they were metallic. I think they were there to prevent the clamped hose from slowly working off the breather. I suppose you can go ahead without them as long as the pieces didn't fall into the engine.

Last edited by A930Rocket; 01-14-2009 at 11:37 AM..
Old 01-14-2009, 11:29 AM
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Thanks for posting this. My car runs great now but I know as we cover more miles together that a project like this is approaching. Your needs look similar to mine, my car has a few mods and I am more than happy with the power I am making (355rwhp) so I don't see any more major mods or getting into a built bottom end for myself. This might be a little uncouth but do you mind sharing about how much you have spent on your project to date?

Also a quick question. I would assume that powder coating the cooling fins of the cylinders wouldn't be a good idea because it would limit the heat transfer from the metal to the air. Is this not the case or does the coating you went with offer better thermal properties than bare metal? Just curious.
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:43 AM
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".....My goal is to create a nice reliable 930 with some extra power that I can take to the coast or mountains with no worry about leaving me standed?

I seem to recall one specific instance where that very thing occurred??? And now you're getting it all built up and adding Kevin's rebuilt K27s....shucks...I won't stand a chance. Maybe you'll be a gentleman and "lift" for me?

Let me know when it's done and I'l make a run down there to hook up with all you folks. It'll be good to see my old stomping grounds again. I worked out of Fresno for 15 years back in the mid 60s to 81. Lived out in Clovis when it was a cow town.

Chuck
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Old 01-14-2009, 01:06 PM
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Maxx,

Sorry for the error on the fuel distributor. It was actually done by Special-T- Auto. Here is the link. They also will rebuild WUR's and they specialize in Porsche and Delorean.

http://www.specialtauto.com/porsche-parts/index.html

Willtell,

I don't mind discussing but a lot of this was done myself (labor mostly) and worked out a few deals on the other side. When you are close, save this thread and PM me and I would be happy to discuss over the phone. There are so many little purchases that it would be difficult to know a number.

Chuck,

My goal was to have the car running by the end of January but I will be in Telluride, CO for that last week/weekend so it looks like middle of February. We will call it finished by Valentines day if nothing else comes up.

Thanks for the posts,
Bryan
Old 01-14-2009, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x98boardwell View Post
Don,

I still have my intake off as you can see. I forgot to mention that I purchased the aluminum injector blocks from Turbokrtaft (Chris is great) but decided to stay with stock specs since I was not doing any porting on the cylinder heads. What is involved in extruding/honing my intake? Would it help even though I didn't touch my cylinders or injector blocks to increase the size?

Don, let me know your thoughts and thanks for the comments.

Bryan
In my opinion, the most important aspect of extrude honing the stock manifold is to get all 6 ports to flow evenly. When you start adding performance parts and bumping the HP, you really need to have each cylinder getting equal amounts of air. The stock manifold has some funky turns and obstructions in it. And while you have it off, why not. Be aware however, it opens the ports a bit, so you'll have to modify the blocks. Not a big deal and you can do it fairly easily. I extrude honed the exhaust manifolds on my powerstroke and got each port to flow evenly with more velocity. It kicks ass.
Old 01-14-2009, 04:59 PM
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Bryan: I'll look forward to the middle of February....but am smart enough to know not to take off on Valentines Day.

Sounds like you have things finally coming together...good to see.

We'll stay in touch as the time draws near.

All the best..............Chuck

P.S.: I went to your link and looked at the fuel heads...and can anyone tell me why the US iteration of the fuel head is silver whereas the Euro version is dark iron? I believe the Euro flows more fuel for the 300 hp?...but why different composites?
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Last edited by Chuck Jones; 01-14-2009 at 05:08 PM.. Reason: Added info
Old 01-14-2009, 05:06 PM
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Don,

Good info, but I am still confused. I have the aluminum size injector blocks which can be bored out, but with the intake... how do I do it, how much should something like this cost, and where can I take it.. I mean what kind of shop would know what I'm taking about or is it something that I need to send out?

If I have to send out, it's over $500 and will take a month save your response about what to do and just tell me NO. I don't have the time, $$ and patience that it will take to allow that to happen. If it is relatively easy then I'm all for it.

Please provide some guidance.

Thanks,
Bryan

Chuck, I would shoot for late February to come down maybe even 1st of March as I will be out of town last weekend in Feb. This way we can be sure she is ready to see you... the car I mean.
Old 01-14-2009, 06:36 PM
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Willtell

I forgot to mention, I have no idea on the heat shrouds/cooling ducts under the motor. To tell you the truth, I didn't even think about it as it is directing wind, not taking the heat away.. since they are not connected like fins.

I have seen it done before and I guess I didn't even give it a hesitation. I would be happy to have someone else comment on the issue if they have some real-world experience regarding this situation... no hypotheticals please.

Here is a pic before the powder-coat for reference.

Good question,

Bryan



Old 01-14-2009, 06:41 PM
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Bryan your engine is looking great, you do exceptional work pal!
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Old 01-14-2009, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willtel View Post
Also a quick question. I would assume that powder coating the cooling fins of the cylinders wouldn't be a good idea because it would limit the heat transfer from the metal to the air. Is this not the case or does the coating you went with offer better thermal properties than bare metal? Just curious.

Willtel, I am guessing you mean the metal fins that attach to the cylinders instead of the actual fins on the cylinders themselves. If so, the metal pieces that attach themselves to the cylinders are there to divert the air more around the cylinders and to prevent hot spots. They are not there to transfer heat. I powdercoated mine as well, and the original paint that was on the parts from the factory ( which I had to glass bead off), was actually quite thick.

I do know that on Harleys they powdercoat the fins on the jugs, but they also usually polish the ends of the fins as well. I would guess that it would retain a little more heat then if they were bare metal, However, I would think that it is more of a surface area issue, then a bare metal VS a coated metal issue...

Bry, Its looking good.... you should fire your powdercoater though... he does a crappy job!!!!! HAHAHA
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:32 PM
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